SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

techTim · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:21 am

So I am finally getting round to doing the install this weekend, I read the whole post last night and have one question: does my 05 have any different colored wires, I saw one post back on page 12 or 13 of this topic that mentioned that, is there anyone in the same boat?
I am pretty excited to get this done, I have been running the ORM for a long wile now and the light has become just the performance reminder, so having a real working light will be nice.

anyone with an 05 who has done this let me know please.

dgeist · **Posted:** Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:12 pm

techTim wrote:

So I am finally getting round to doing the install this weekend, I read the whole post last night and have one question: does my 05 have any different colored wires, I saw one post back on page 12 or 13 of this topic that mentioned that, is there anyone in the same boat?
I am pretty excited to get this done, I have been running the ORM for a long wile now and the light has become just the performance reminder, so having a real working light will be nice.

anyone with an 05 who has done this let me know please.

In the same boat. I built the board with a buddy of mine who does milspec electronics a while back and it only took about 2 hours. I have all the part laid out on the bench and am torn on the following:
- How to lay out the parts in the box (plug in body vs. plug in the cover)
- How to orient the board under the dash (I already know that I want it inside the cab). I have some aluminum plate for a mount, but where should I screw it in...
- How I want to trace the wires (I don't mind opening up the loom and going by pin position, but I don't want to break the plugs. They're too darned expensive).
- How to access a pre-exsiting firewall pass-through that'll work for the 18-guage that I'm using. I'm thinking I may have been better off with 20....<sigh>

Dan

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:34 am

dgeist & tech tim,

I just completed the install on my '05 and my earlier post I made soon afterwards will answer the questions of how I found the wires without disassembly of the C1 & C2 plug bodies. Most of your questions I found answers to in this thread and an earlier thread concerening the SEGR first run. In an earlier post by gmctd on Nov. 16 2007 @9:46 pm (very helpful and selfless member) the wire colors are given for the '05 and I found them to be correct. Most of the questions about the mechanical build-up of the box was included with my Kit from Loco. The plug body goes in the back of the box and not the lid. The flange of the plug body goes on the outside of the box to allow room for the wires to enter the back of the plug body without being to tight to the lid. I had to file a little of the pcb board to get it line up with the holes Loco drilled in the plug body flange to get the pcb board back far enough to clear the power resistor mounted to the bottom end of the box. The standoff nuts he provided worked very well in spacing the pcb board away form the box. The power resistor required some filing to get it deep enough in the box so the lid will fit. All this was on a sheet he sent with my kit. I used 20 ga wire for the harness build-up. It all (9 wires) fit inside of a 3/8" corrigated plastic conduit. I used a factory grometed hole located just above the gas pedal that came out just under the fuel filter. You have to remove a plastic cover above the gas pedel (2 screws) to see the hole. This gromet was more like a rubber plug and pushed out of the hole into the engine compartment as soon as I pushed on it from inside the cabin. I then cut the back out of the plug and threaded it on the wires after poking the wires through the hole from the cabin. After the wires were spliced into the truck harness, I permatex siliconed the back of the plug and pushed it back into the original position (not the easiest thing to do as the plug looses its intergety when you cut the back of it out). I then filled both sides with the silicone and installed the 3/8 corrigated conduit over the wires from both sides of the plug. I believe the wires are now well protected from being worn at this hole. Another tip is: I black taped the SEGR harness at about every 9" - 12" and taped the ends of the wires together before sticking them through the hole. It makes it much easier to push through and keep under control once under the hood. You can cut them to length as you find the wires in the harness to splice them to. There is an aluminum HD bracket above the gas pedel that I mounted the SEGR box to with some HD velcro I got at radio shack. I put a chunk of aluminum directly under the power resistor on the outside of the box and used heatsink compound to disapate the heat generated by the power resistor. I think this should be enough to keep the temp. of the box within acceptable limits while still allowing the easy mounting that the velcro provides. I have experienced no vibrations or noise from this mounting method. The insallation has worked flawlessly for me so farand is virtually hidden from obvious view.

techTim · **Posted:** Thu Dec 06, 2007 11:25 am

thanks Scott, yours and gmctd's post's must be the ones that I was thinking of, glad to hear that you had good luck with the install. I have a one day window this weekend when the wife will be home from work and I can finish mine, in addition to oil and filter, manifold temp probe clean, air filter, etc.

I'll post pictures if I can figure out how.

greggmig · **Posted:** Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:36 am

Anyone live in The Peoples Republic of Massachusetts who has installed a SERG? Im looking to install mine and was looking for some help? I have all the tools and garage just need some consulting? Just want to make sure I hook up into the right wires,and that everthing gets assembled right! Instructions are not to detailed enough for me.

Thanks, Gregg

Davesub · **Posted:** Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:19 pm

Well I got my 2 kits today. Looks to be more involved than I thought. Anyone in the WA/OR area want to get together and help me install this? Thanks. Dave

clday25 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:45 pm

Quote:

Anyone in the WA/OR area want to get together and help me install this? Thanks. Dave

We should have a NW SERG party... i had UFO set my kit up but i haven't got around to installing it yet.... a little intimidating :shock:

techTim · **Posted:** Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:54 pm

I think 3weight is in the portland area, I'm way down south in roseburg. it was kinda scary for me at first, but the kit and instructions cover most everything, this thread of course picks up any pieces.
I'm willing to help anybody that wants a bit of cheer leading for the build-up, I will be doing the install tomorrow I hope.
you guys in the great NW feel free to PM me if you want, we can exchange phone numbers and E-mail.
Maybe a separate thread is needed for regional topics.........?

Davesub · **Posted:** Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:33 pm

I'll buy the pizza and beer! My kits have the UFO treatment done just need assistance with the rest. I'm much better with mechanical stuff than electrical!

dgeist · **Posted:** Sat Dec 08, 2007 12:01 pm

Scott Langohr wrote:

dgeist & tech tim,

There is an aluminum HD bracket above the gas pedel that I mounted the SEGR box to with some HD velcro I got at radio shack. I put a chunk of aluminum directly under the power resistor on the outside of the box and used heatsink compound to disapate the heat generated by the power resistor. I think this should be enough to keep the temp. of the box within acceptable limits while still allowing the easy mounting that the velcro provides. I have experienced no vibrations or noise from this mounting method. The insallation has worked flawlessly for me so farand is virtually hidden from obvious view.

Thanks for the tips, Scott. I don't suppose you have a photo of the inside setup, do you? I hadn't heard of mounting the box over the go pedal before (most seem to put it over near the kick-panel). Any danger of it flopping down into the pedal if it DID come loose and also, is there sufficient room for a drip loop should condensation form in the wire bundle?

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

clday25 wrote:

We should have a NW SERG party... i had UFO set my kit up but i haven't got around to installing it yet.... a little intimidating :shock:

I was really, really nervous about doing the install on mine (UFO put the board together). Once you cut the first wire, there's no where to go but up. I'm in Portland, but travel a bunch for work. If I'm around, I'll trade supervisory help for beer

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 08, 2007 5:41 pm

Anyone had trouble with the box throwing a P 0101 code every 20 or 30 miles? P 0101 = MAF Circuit Range/Performance.

It did that for 3 days running this week driving to work, 40 mile round commute, and would come on at least once a day.

Thursday night, disconnected the box and installed the jumpers to put it back to factory. After 3 days and 70 miles with the jumpers, no CEL and no codes - so aparently the problem isn't with the wiring connections, but with the box itself.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 08, 2007 6:40 pm

Dirty air filter will also give that code, or leak between the MAF and the turbo - even if the code quit popping up with the bypass plug installed, have a look at the filter, first - your box output could be close to the parameter limits, pushed outta bounds by dirty filter or leak.

Then, look at the pins in the connectors, box and cable - if unseated you get intermittent connections.

Then, pop the cover off the box, see if anything is awry

greiswig · **Posted:** Sat Dec 08, 2007 6:41 pm

clday25 wrote:

Quote:

Anyone in the WA/OR area want to get together and help me install this? Thanks. Dave

We should have a NW SERG party... i had UFO set my kit up but i haven't got around to installing it yet.... a little intimidating :shock:

I'm interested in this, particularly if someone has a dry place to work. I live in Forest Grove. Keep me posted if something works out. I'll pitch in on beer/pizza or whatever to make sure that I get this right.

...unless retmil's experience is shared by others and this box throws a code, too.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 08, 2007 7:49 pm

It hasn't thrown a CEL, but it did show up P 0101 on the odometer display when doing the key on/off trick. Scangauge II shows no codes found.

I'll try picking up a can of MAF cleaner tonight and try cleaning it tomorrow. Also have a spare new MAF sensor I picked up 1 1/2 years ago when it threw the initial codes for the EGR, can try swapping them out to see if there's any difference. Some dielectric grease on the MAF connector, recheck all the hose connections, etc. Running V6 airbox and Amsoil synthetic filter with less than 10 K miles on it, just recently blew it out, kinda doubt it's the air filter.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 08, 2007 8:03 pm

Ah ha! Scenario - you're likely seeing the archived DTC, stored so DCX can see a trail leading up to a failure - SG2 clears the currently displayed code(s), but not the stored code - that's why no CEL or further SC2 interest - either that, or it's something else...........

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 08, 2007 10:42 pm

Just did a run up to Advance and picked up some MAF cleaner. Then another 5 miles over to Lowes Hardware to see if they had any large diameter copper pipe.

Up till now, had been running with everything reconnected. Scangauge II still shiowed no codes, P 0101 still on the odometer display.

When I came out of Lowes, I popped the hood and disconnected the MAF sensor - drove the 6 miles home with the original ORM. As per standard, no CEL on the first startup.

When I got home, Scangauge still showed no codes. Shut it off, waited 5 minutes, and then did the key on/off routine. Odometer displayed first P 0102 - the standard ORM code - and then again P 0101.

Granted, I may have a MAF that has decided to head south in the months running the standard ORM and/or something not quite right with the SEGR box.

But so far this week, running several days with the SEGR, then with everything reconnected stock, then back to the basic ORM - I hate to say it but to me at least my CRD, the way it's configured, runs much better with the basic ORM. And having a Scangauge II on the dash to clear the ORM CEL each time upon startup, I'm wondering if there's really any advantage in my case to having the SEGR connected.

My fuel mileage with the SEGR dropped noticeably, back down to what it was when I first bought the beast over 2 years ago, pre-every mod and not broken in, and a noticeable reduction in power. Reconnecting back to stock, including the EGR, actually improved matters as far as fuel mileage and power, and the basic ORM tonight seems to have restored it to it's old self.

Strong possibility that there may be something not right in the box. Another member assembled and initially tested it for me on his vehicle, found some funky readings and tracked it down to an incomplete solder trace on the circuit board itself from the manufacturing process. I informed him of what I've seen so far, and at the first opportunity we're going to do some further troubleshooting on both the box and the wiring connections. And I'll be taking a look at the MAF sensor itself in the morning.

UFO · **Posted:** Sun Dec 09, 2007 12:16 am

retmil46 -- If you can, post or PM me for my email to let me see some good detailed pictures of your PCB. I'd like to make sure you've got the right components in the right places. It seems possible that your box is not working correctly.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:53 am

I'd be rather surprised if the components were installed in the wrong location. The person that assembled it doesn't want it advertised publicly that he's running a SEGR, as the county he lives in is a EPA air quality non-attainment zone and he could possibly face a hefty fine if he's caught running this device. But he's a long-time forum member, has dealt extensively with electronics during his working life, assembled and tested his own SEGR before doing mine, and tested mine on his own vehicle before giving it the OK, comparing the readings between both boxes for any differences.

I'm inclined to think that if the problem is in the SEGR box, that it's some type of intermittent fault such as something making contact that shouldn't, or possibly another minor defect on the board such as the incomplete solder trace that the other gent found. For that matter, if this gent hadn't been the one doing the testing, I'd have never found something like that to save my life - I'm a mechanic, not an electronics tech.

I'm laying equal odds that it may be something with the MAF sensor at this point.

Back in October, I had the Inmotion Stage II tune done. When I reinstalled the ECM, I reconnected the MAF sensor for the first couple test drives just to be on the safe side, let the ECM see the normal stock configuration when I first brought it online with the new programming.

One thing I noticed was that until everything got up to temp, at light to moderate steady throttle, you could hear and feel the engine surging up and down in power a small amount. From when I first bought the vehicle until I started running the basic ORM, I never experienced anything like this. Once I disconnected the MAF sensor and went back to running the ORM, it promptly went away.

With both the SEGR and running stock with the jumpers - ie, the MAF reconnected in both cases - this surging after a cold start came back.

I have heard that MAF equipped vehicles tend to do this, until the hot wire inside the MAF sensor and/or the engine gets up to full temp. But as I said, if this was present in the first 18 months I owned the vehicle prior to the ORM, it wasn't enough for me to notice it.

Some possibilities - with the Inmotion tune and other mods, such that the vehicle is tighter and more efficient, this surging was always present but is just now apparent as the vehicle is efficient enough now that minor power changes are no longer below the radar screen. Something with the Inmotion tune is amplifying any surging caused by the MAF. Or the MAF sensor itself could simply be going fubar. MAF sensors do fail, I remember oldnavy had to have his replaced in the first few months he owned his vehicle.

At any rate, from my testing the beast still runs fine with the jumpers and basic ORM. I've ordered spare connectors and pins from digikey to make a permanent bypass plug. If necessary, I can run in this mode for any long trips over the holidays until we can get this figured out.

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:16 pm

dgeist wrote:

Scott Langohr wrote:

dgeist & tech tim,

There is an aluminum HD bracket above the gas pedel that I mounted the SEGR box to with some HD velcro I got at radio shack. I put a chunk of aluminum directly under the power resistor on the outside of the box and used heatsink compound to disapate the heat generated by the power resistor. I think this should be enough to keep the temp. of the box within acceptable limits while still allowing the easy mounting that the velcro provides. I have experienced no vibrations or noise from this mounting method. The insallation has worked flawlessly for me so farand is virtually hidden from obvious view.

Thanks for the tips, Scott. I don't suppose you have a photo of the inside setup, do you? I hadn't heard of mounting the box over the go pedal before (most seem to put it over near the kick-panel). Any danger of it flopping down into the pedal if it DID come loose and also, is there sufficient room for a drip loop should condensation form in the wire bundle?

There is a picture of the aluminum bracket and the hole used on the thread that alerted me to this site for the install. I am having problems with my home computer DSL line downloading pages or I would look it up for you. I used a type of velcro from radio shack that is supposed to hold 20# on a verticle load. I just used a couple of small pieces of it so I would have an easier time taking it loose if I wanted. It was a little hard to get both pieces seated to each other so I pushed them together and took the tape off the back of one of them and attached to the SEGR box. I then took the tape off the other side and pressed it all in place on the aluminum bracket. It is not coming loose without some serious effort. There is a black plastic panel under dash that seperates the SEGR area from the gas pedel area. It removes with two screws and a couple of pins in the back. When this is back in place, the SEGR box cannot drop down to interfere with the gas or brake pedel. There is plenty of room for as many loops of the SEGR harness as you want. I made 1 full loop and wire tied it to something up there in case I wanted to bring the harness end out from under the dash and insert the bypass plug. When complete, it is all very well hidden from sight both in the cabin and engine compartment.

I have driven the truck approximately 300 mi since last weeks install. We are experiencing a cold snap here in Indiana. The truck seams to run a little quieter and has plenty of power no lights and no codes thrown. I only had a partial tank used on this set up so far. I got 22.4 mpg and had never gotten less than 25.2 prior to that. This is the first cold weather I have driven it in and the first time the converter lock and OD have waited to kick in until the fluid was up to temp. It could be that.

SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

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