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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:28 pm 
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is there any more details on the actual mechanical build of the box? how many screws, and where each size screw goes etc. Im looking at my components and I think im missing some screws. or maybe im the screw??? anyhoo any help appreciated...

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 10:41 pm 
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DOC-
don't ask how I know, but make double sure you have 8 wires to tie into the factory harness, 6 won't do. :oops:

yup, bone head me, no wires from the big gold resistor to the plug and beyond. right at the end of the day and almost done too :evil: .

did get the CAT filter and oil change done though. :roll:

got tonight and tomorrow to make it right, hope I did everything else right.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:03 pm 
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Four screws fasten the connector to the box - two in the upper holes with nuts - two of those also serve to mount the pcb, using short standoffs as nuts
two additional short screws fasten the pcb to those standoffs

one more medium screw mounts the other end of the pcb to the box using a standoff and short round-head screw to fasten the pcb to the standoff

two screws and nuts fasten the resistor to the box

four countersunk screws fasten the lid on the box

the connector cover has two screws in a heat-sealed plastic package for the strain-relief\clamp

so you should have 3 short length round-head screws to fasten the pcb to the 3 standoffs, 5 medium length round-head screws, two longer length round-head screws, 4 countersunk screws, and two screws in the connector package

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Last edited by gmctd on Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:04 pm 
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ok so heres what I got:

Image

yes 8 wires.

Image

components and screws. So there are 4 holes in the lid and only 2 screws that look like they fit. Also am I supposed to drill the bottom of the box so I can mount the pegs under the pc board?

Image

Im assuming the pegs go on the bottom like any regular PC board to keep it from hitting the bottom of the box.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:10 pm 
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Correct, and strike one screw\standoff\screw in my list, above - the pcb is three-point mounted, as shown - you were posting as I was editing, so we'll let that go......or, not.

Everything in your pics looks good - show'n'tell rules! - now, drill the box as illustrated in the instruction sheets, and you can get started with the pcb installaton and wiring.

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Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:14 pm 
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ok so it looks like I need to find 2 more counter sink screws for the lid, since I only got 2

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:19 pm 
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Suggestion - don't let that hold you up - the cover goes on after everything else is done, right?

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Pricol EGT, Boost
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SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:21 pm 
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Oh I hear ya there. just stating that I need to get more screws :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:15 am 
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0311_DoC wrote:
Oh I hear ya there. just stating that I need to get more screws :lol:
Don't we all. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:17 am 
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UFO wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
Oh I hear ya there. just stating that I need to get more screws :lol:
Don't we all. :wink:


Now thats funny....... :mrgreen: :-)r

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:30 am 
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And getting more screws is infinitely preferable to having a screw loose. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 1:05 am 
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so does the square plastic thingy get mounted inside the box or outside?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 1:47 am 
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The square connector mounting flange can go either way, in or out, but the pcb will sit flusher if the flange is outside the box, as in my picture - that is the intent of the designer

One quadrant of the flange has 4 mounting holes - drill and use the inner pair, closest to the round connector body - those are for mounting the pcb

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 2:17 am 
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ok next dumb question where is the diagram for the wires that go in the corresponding holes from the PCB board. I see there are numbers on the board and numbers on the flange. The copy I have seems reversed. for example the big gold thing on my included diagram has #3 on the left and #4 on the right. on my actual board its reversed. so How do I know which hole to put it in? ( haha dirty minded people) lets keep it simple for the grunt here :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:07 am 
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Ok - in your upper pic, the board\resistor is as it should be in the box, resistor at the left end, connector on the right end with the board in between.

Rotate the box so the length is vertical - with the resistor at the bottom, connector at the top, the pins will be oriented like this - the numbers are stamped in the plastic - this is illustrated by the lower right pic in the instructions, except the resistor is on the bottom end, connector on the top end

3 - 2 - 1

6 - 5 - 4

9 - 8 - 7

Just locate the corresponding pins on the pcb, note the correct wire color, push the pin on the other end of that wire into the corresponding hole in the connector - #5 is empty, blank, no connection, no #5 on the pcb

1 - Wht - 1

2 - W\R - 2

3 - Red - 3

4 - Blu - 4

5 - n\c

6 - Blk - 6

7 - Yel - 7

8 - Y\B - 8

9 - Vio - 9

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:23 am 
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gmctd wrote:
Ok - in your upper pic, the board\resistor is as it should be in the box, resistor at the left end, connector on the right end with the board in between.

Rotate the box so the length is vertical - with the resistor at the bottom, connector at the top, the pins will be oriented like this - the numbers are stamped in the plastic - this is illustrated by the lower right pic in the instructions, except the resistor is on the bottom end, connector on the top end

3 - 2 - 1

6 - 5 - 4

9 - 8 - 7

Just locate the corresponding pins on the pcb, note the correct wire color, push the pin on the other end of that wire into the corresponding hole in the connector - #5 is empty, blank, no connection, no #5 on the pcb

1 - Wht - 1

2 - W\R - 2

3 - Red - 3

4 - Blu - 4

5 - n\c

6 - Blk - 6

7 - Yel - 7

8 - Y\B - 8

9 - Vio - 9


ok to clarify, my #3 red is connected to a black wire from the resistor and to the fuse. and #2 what is W/R? #8 is just plain Yellow, and #9 is wht?????

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:28 am 
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Look at the wires soldered into the board, and the #'s on the board - tell me what you see

The pic does look like a black wire is soldered to the red wire on the resistor - that would be one side of the fuse - the other side, the red wire, goes to connector pin3

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:37 am 
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gmctd wrote:
Look at the wires soldered into the board, and the #'s on the board - tell me what you see


ok. Ill do it like this, from left to right, top to bottom.

top left of board. #8 yellow, then #1 white, right side top of board #4 blue,=( also connected to right side of resistor)

middle left, #3 red connected to Left side of resistor and fuse, the remaining wire that will plug in to the flange is black. #7 yellow, #9 white

bottom left. next to green capacitor with black stripe is #6 black, then #2 white

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:39 am 
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I didn't buy any violet wire, but just read the PCB number for the wire and insert it into the connector body slot of the same number. And the inline fuse is just an extension of wire 3, so plug it into connector contact 3.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 3:42 am 
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alright cool. you did build it :wink: im just trying to hook it up ....

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