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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 4:00 am 
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Best to do it like that - I posted the colors from the original design - just find the number on the board, connect that wire to the corresponding number in the connector - # 5 is empty, no matter what the color

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 4:06 am 
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ok, got it, now when BOB comes up I will start playing in the engine bay.






Big Orange Ball :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 4:16 am 
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YIPPEE!!!!!

Got the thing in and ripped around the neighborhood, no limp mode, so around town, no limp mode, and, on shut down it smoothly stops! I think we have a winner!

going to sleepy now, midnight on the left coast, going to tinker a bit tomorrow and wait for the CEL to blink off.

Thanks again turbo Tim, and the other big brains out there who made this happen, HOORAY!! :D

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'05 CRD limited, SEGR, EHM, Magnaflow 18" muffler, OEM skid plates, bug guard, trailer kit, yakima cross bars and basket, CAT filter,
....more to come.....


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 1:11 pm 
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ok another question... How far do the pins need to go into the flange from inside the box? I was looking at it and just did a mock putting together of the other component that attaches to the box, and I don't see how the male connectors are going to reach the female connectors. I have them pushed in as far as they will go, and some stick thru further than others do???? still seems like there is a 1/8 in or less between the 2 components once they are fitted together.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 1:16 pm 
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Pulled the MAF sensor and gave it a good spraydown with MAF cleaner yesterday. Last night tried running stock with the jumpers, and looks as though all hint of surging has went away. May have been as simple as a dirty MAF sensor. We'll see with more testing.

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'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 1:21 pm 
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0311_DoC wrote:
ok another question... How far do the pins need to go into the flange from inside the box? I was looking at it and just did a mock putting together of the other component that attaches to the box, and I don't see how the male connectors are going to reach the female connectors. I have them pushed in as far as they will go, and some stick thru further than others do???? still seems like there is a 1/8 in or less between the 2 components once they are fitted together.
The pins must be inserted past the point where there is any metal contact showing from the back of the connector. Some of my crimps were better than others, and the contact may not go in all the way. You can squeeze it with pliers to allow it to go in all the way.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 4:00 pm 
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no more CEL as of the third start-up, and I mean, it went out the second the thing was turning over under its own power. 8)
I still have to detail the box attachment under the dash, but it works it works!!!

I guess now I have to start getting my lift pump parts together......... :roll:

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'05 CRD limited, SEGR, EHM, Magnaflow 18" muffler, OEM skid plates, bug guard, trailer kit, yakima cross bars and basket, CAT filter,
....more to come.....


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 3:20 am 
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Looks as though Mouser has the pins for making a jumper plug in stock. P/N 571-66361-2. They also have the connector housings in stock - housings and pins listed on the same pdf catalog page.

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 1:00 pm 
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clday25 wrote:
Quote:
Anyone in the WA/OR area want to get together and help me install this? Thanks. Dave


We should have a NW SERG party... i had UFO set my kit up but i haven't got around to installing it yet.... a little intimidating :shock:


Whatever happened to this? It seemed like there was a fair amount of interest. Just a lack of a good venue?

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Suncoast, SEGR, lift, InMotion tune, homebrew B100
At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 2:44 pm 
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A lack of Venue and time...... but I'm still interested in meeting up and completing our SERG's.

Any other WA/OR CRD'ers that have SERG experience and/or want to tackle installing a SERG please chime in. I for one am a little intimidated with the install and could use all the help i can get!

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2005 Silver CRD Sport
GDE Hot and Tranny Tunes, Suncoast, Trango, Provent, Magnaflow, Cummins Lift Pump, SAMCO, SEGR
Al's A-Arms, Frankenlift w/790+3 clevis rings, 4.10s, Eaton E-Locker, Skid Row & Mopar Skids, RRO Super-Sliders
ARB Bull Bar, KC Daylighters, Rebuilt Warn MX6085 w/125' Synthetic line, 265/70/16 Cooper Discoverer STT & Moabs


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 3:44 pm 
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Depending on timing, I might be up for it.

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Mopar engine, transmission, transfer case skids
245/70/16 Michelin Latitude X-Ice (winter)
235/75/16 Firestone Destination ATs (summer)
Thule roof rack, cargo box
V6 airbox mod
Flowmaster 50 2.5 inch muffler
Edge EZ module (set for fuel economy)
SEGR
TDIWagonGuy CCV filter
B99 (summer), B20 (winter)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 6:13 pm 
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Location: North Port, Fl.
Got my box together and am waiting on connectors from Digi-key. Out of stock till
1/06/08. Till than I will wait to open harness and tie things together.
Just as well, Xmas week will be towing the jeep anyhow to Al. to see great-grand child.
AF people so baby was born in Okinawa and haven't seen her yet.
Mileage report: Libby hooked up to tow bars behind motor home>>>>>>>>>>>>
unlimited mileage :lol:
Love this forum and all the help it has given me. I did look for another vehicle without all
the problems the CRD has produced with the emissions soot problems but with
all you'r help I have overcome all these problems.
My thanks to all. :D

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EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 1:38 pm 
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crd liberty wrote:
Got my box together and am waiting on connectors from Digi-key. Out of stock till
1/06/08. Till than I will wait to open harness and tie things together.


Check my post above - Mouser has them in stock - took two days to get them by 1st class mail.

Ranger1 and I got together yesterday and did some quick troubleshooting on mine. Apparently one of the op-amps is dropping out one leg for some reason, showing MAF voltage and airflow to the ECM as being way too low consistenly over the rpm range - thus the P 0101 code. That would also explain why my fuel mileage and bottom-end oomph went away with the SEGR connected.

Installing the bypass plug and running stock with MAF connected, all the readings were in sync with his vehicle - so all the wiring and components outside the SEGR box are operating properly.

I removed the SEGR box and left it with Ranger1 for troubleshooting over the holidays, and will be running bypass/ORM on the trip to TX. No biggie, last trip in May with ORM and pre-Suncoast/lift pump/fuel cooler, I was hitting 32 mpg. :D

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:35 pm 
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clday25 wrote:
A lack of Venue and time...... but I'm still interested in meeting up and completing our SERG's.

Any other WA/OR CRD'ers that have SERG experience and/or want to tackle installing a SERG please chime in. I for one am a little intimidated with the install and could use all the help i can get!


one week and probably 600 miles now, no problems at all, no light, no nothing :D

I am really glad I did this upgrade, clday, will PM you today with contact info.

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'05 CRD limited, SEGR, EHM, Magnaflow 18" muffler, OEM skid plates, bug guard, trailer kit, yakima cross bars and basket, CAT filter,
....more to come.....


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 Post subject: Need help please!
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 8:13 pm 
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Location: Green Cove Springs FL
I need some troubleshooting help please!
I finally got the SEGR box wired in today. I plugged in the MAF and drove
around several times today running errands. The CEL never went out so I
stopped at AutoZone and had them check codes. Got a P0102 and they
cleared it. Started it back up, and on the drive home the CEL came back
on.
So do you think I got a bad connection somewhere?
Do you think maybe the MAF plug got corroded from being unplugged for
so long?
Any suggestions?

Thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 9:23 pm 
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Turn the key on, make sure +12v is on the 3a fuse circuit pin3, measured to body\engine ground

If so measure it again, but using ground pin6 to verify the ground connection.

Make sure either lead on the big resistor is not touching the case

Make sure there are no pinched wires

Make sure all the pins in each connector are of equal length in their housing

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:48 am 
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Location: Green Cove Springs FL
gmctd wrote:
Turn the key on, make sure +12v is on the 3a fuse circuit pin3, measured to body\engine ground

If so measure it again, but using ground pin6 to verify the ground connection.

Make sure either lead on the big resistor is not touching the case

Make sure there are no pinched wires

Make sure all the pins in each connector are of equal length in their housing

Thanks,

Before I wired everything in place I made continuity checks through the
harness, through the plug, and onto the circuit board. I also made sure
nothing was touching the case.

This morning I used my test light to make your suggested checks. Key on,
I got 12v through the fuse, through the plug, and onto pin 3 on the circuit
board. I found that my DVOM has a dead battery so resistance checks will
have to wait. I put heat shrink on the resistor ends during the build-up to
ensure they didn't contact the case. This mornings test seem to confirm
that. Also, with key on, I could hear the relay click when unplugging and
plugging in the box.

So far everything looks good in the box.

Any other suggestions?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:36 am 
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Relay clicking does not verify ground connection - that is grounded by the ECM - verify that pin6 is grounded by measuring from that point to +12v at pin3

Then check the connector pins to verify they are completely seated in the connectors - you may still need to do a continuity check on each of the signal wires to the pins

Next will be to verify correct termination to the ECM harness - each SEGR wire is connected to the appropriate harness wire

After that, you'll need to see if any of the magic smoke has escaped trom the box.............

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 12:10 pm 
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You can try what Ranger1 suggested on mine - install the jumper wires and reconnect the MAF. If all the codes go away and everything operates normally, the problem is in the SEGR itself. If you're still getting codes and a CEL, then the problem is in the wiring or the MAF itself.

Certainly couldn't hurt to pick up a can of MAF Sensor cleaner at Autozoo and clean off both the sensor and harness ends of the connection on the MAF, and coat with a little dielectric grease. If nothing else, simple way to eliminate one potential problem and narrow down the causes.

Just a dummy check, no offense intended - did you make sure the MAF connector was fully seated? From what I've heard, if the red locking tab isn't fully pulled out toward the harness before you install the connector, it will keep it from seating and making a proper connection.

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler


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 Post subject: more diagnostics...
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 3:07 pm 
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Location: Green Cove Springs FL
I got a battery for my DVOM and did some more testing this morning.

Key on, I got 12v at pin 3 on the circuit board when grounded to pin 6.

Because the code was P0102 MAF signal I did some contiunity checks on
the MAF circuit.
Checked continuity from pin 2 on circuit board to C1-85 = Good
Checked from pin 1 on circuit board to Blue/Grn wire on MAF plug = Good

When I get more time I will check the rest of the pins. I felt that these
were the most importand though.
Also gonna clean the MAF (thanks retmil) and put some dielectric greans on
the plug.

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