2 cycle TC-W3 diesel fuel ratio?

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

Was that bio B20 or B100? What you saw sounds like waxes forming and water settling out in pure bio. The water may be from the station's tank, rather than the refiners process. Good info here (see the photos on page 9):

http://www.biodiesel.org/pdf_files/Fuel ... eGuide.pdf

Might check out this map and look for an alternative location nearby:

http://www.biodiesel.org/buyingbiodiese ... lingsites/

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:49 am

Here's a photo of my by-pass

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:53 am

Here's where it comes from the full flow filter to the by-pass

retmil46 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:58 am

That was B20, from a truck stop that has 10 B20 pumps in the truck lane and an above ground tank no less, but they've been there forever and a day - apparently their tanks could stand a good cleaning.

That's the real kicker - this truck stop and the Citgo station closest to home, both with above ground tanks, have had the worst quality fuel here of late. As far as the Citgo station - remember my "coffee ground" pics of what came out of my filters?

Best quality I've found here locally? An Accel station on Hwy 150 with underground tanks, but less than 2 years old (plastic tanks). Every sample I've pulled off of their pumps has been clean as a whistle - no water, no dirt, nada, even after sitting overnight out in the cold - looks like water with yellow food coloring added.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:18 pm

dieselenthusiast wrote:

Here's a photo of my by-pass

Ok stupid question, are you running the bypass for soot control? and if so, what did you spend on that system?

gmctd · **Posted:** Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:10 pm

Not so stupid question: how do the excellent pics of your 24v 5.9L Cummins oil filter bypass modification fit into a thread about fuel additives? :?:

And, another: R U lost?

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:56 pm

Ok stupid question, are you running the bypass for soot control? and if so, what did you spend on that system?[/quote]

I’m guessing I spent $200 dollars on the by-pass system including both filters. My goal is to keep a clean engine so I can go 1 million miles without an overhaul.

I also take oil samples to assess the condition of my oil and engine. The by-pass can significantly increase oil change intervals which will help pay for the cost of the by-pass.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Tue Dec 18, 2007 11:53 pm

gmctd wrote:

Not so stupid question: how do the excellent pics of your 24v 5.9L Cummins oil filter bypass modification fit into a thread about fuel additives? :?:

And, another: R U lost?

NO, im not L.O.S.T....just going off of the path..sorry to hijack the thread like that but i was curious since my dad has an 05 2500..Thanks for the answer

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Wed Dec 19, 2007 12:16 am

gmctd wrote:

Not so stupid question: how do the excellent pics of your 24v 5.9L Cummins oil filter bypass modification fit into a thread about fuel additives? :?:

And, another: R U lost?

The post of the by-pass was to show other ways to improve the longevity of a diesel engine. :wink:

We know that fuel additives effect the burn, performance, fuel efficiency and longevity while reducing deposits, black smoke and emissions. The fuel additives clean fuel injectors and piston rings for better combustion and better sealing. PLUS, the fuel additives does reduce soot generated from incomplete combustion and helps keep soot out of the crankcase. Reduced soot loading controls soot related wear and engine oil viscosity. The by-pass takes out even more soot and other harmful contaminants that a full flow filter can not trap. So I hope this better connects the two ideas.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Dec 19, 2007 3:37 pm

Super Tech Outboard 2-cycle TC-W3 Engine Oil
NOT ULSD compliant
HFRR 474
200:1 ratio

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:25 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

Super Tech Outboard 2-cycle TC-W3 Engine Oil
NOT ULSD compliant
HFRR 474
200:1 ratio

Interesting. Where did you get this information? I called Cummins and they said that it wouldn’t hurt anything. I’ve talked to several diesel mechanics who say it is highly recommended and will save on parts.

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:29 pm

so is any 2 cycle oil good or just certain brands or types????

CATCRD · **Posted:** Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:32 pm

dieselenthusiast wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

Super Tech Outboard 2-cycle TC-W3 Engine Oil
NOT ULSD compliant
HFRR 474
200:1 ratio

Interesting. Where did you get this information? I called Cummins and they said that it wouldn’t hurt anything. I’ve talked to several diesel mechanics who say it is highly recommended and will save on parts.

It just means that it contains more than 15ppm sulfur. Shouldn't hurt our vehicles, having no particulate filter in the exhaust, and used in such small quantities per tank.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:40 pm

If you go on bob's the oil guy website there is an actual fuel additive study published. It ranks diesel fuel additives on effectiveness and cost per tank. It's a real one backed up by actual test numbers. The best,cheapest lube additive was bio-diesel. Two-stroke oil was near the middle of the list. You can run stanadyne for cheaper than two-stroke oil and it is more effective.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:47 pm

0311_DoC wrote:

so is any 2 cycle oil good or just certain brands or types????

I’ve been told by Cummins and a diesel mechanic that it is best to use low ash and non-synthetic 2-cycle TC-W3. Wal-Mart’s brand “Super Tech” is the probably most widely used and perhaps the most cost effective.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Wed Dec 19, 2007 9:20 pm

onthehunt wrote:

If you go on bob's the oil guy website there is an actual fuel additive study published. It ranks diesel fuel additives on effectiveness and cost per tank. It's a real one backed up by actual test numbers. The best,cheapest lube additive was bio-diesel. Two-stroke oil was near the middle of the list. You can run stanadyne for cheaper than two-stroke oil and it is more effective.

Actually, Super Tech outperformed Stanadyne. The price difference is 9 cents. You can review the results here:

http://inchoate.harm.org/~halbritt/dodg ... e%20V3.pdf

onthehunt · **Posted:** Thu Dec 20, 2007 1:32 am

I went back and checked..your right. I'll take the stanadyne which has a water emulsifier and a stabalizer in it for 10 cents more a tank though. The lubricity numbers were almost identical. Interesting to see some actually made the fuel worse, at least in lubricity terms.

nescosmo · **Joined:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:17 pm **Posts:** 202

What about using vegetabel oil and not 2 cycle oil, would it better or not, would it cost less pollution using the vo.

any comments.....

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Dec 21, 2007 12:28 pm

nescosmo wrote:

What about using vegetabel oil and not 2 cycle oil, would it better or not, would it cost less pollution using the vo.

any comments.....

I’m not sure about vegetable oil? :?:

I think you have a valid point, using biodiesel (at least B5) would give you the lubrication that you need on top of performance gains :wink:

We know that Bio is probably the best overall performance enhancer including lubrication. I need to research to find out exactly what my truck can safely run on. Cummins says my truck is safe for B5, but I would like to run B20 and do away with power service and TC-w3.

And maybe add a water emulsifier and fuel stabilizer. I have a list of bio stations for when I travel I know where to fill up. I prefer B5 over TC-w3, but sometimes it isn’t available. Surprisingly, Nationwide, Bio is still hard to come by.

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

I think what the vehicle can safely handle comes down to what quality bio you have access to, and your personal risk aversion. All diesels sold after the mid 90's have fuel lines/rubber components that can stand up to biodiesel. There are VW TDI owners now with hundreds of thousands of miles w/ 100% bio on engines similar to ours (albeit smaller). I've run either B20 or B99 almost exclusively in my CRD since I got it.

That said, I have access to good, high quality bio produced from a very reputable (and growing) company. Were I less certain of the source, I'd be a little nervous about B99, especially given the general crappiness of our stock filter head and filter system.

B5 is almost certainly fine, and Chrysler even warrantees the engine with the stuff (not to say they won't still use any excuse they can to dodge paying $$). B20 is a nice middle ground between desire to run bio and concerns about fuel quality/damage to fuel systems.

I would NOT run veggie oil. The folks who do usually install some fairly extensive upgrades to their fueling systems.

2 cycle TC-W3 diesel fuel ratio?

Who is online