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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 2:39 pm 
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nescosmo wrote:
What about using vegetabel oil and not 2 cycle oil, would it better or not, would it cost less pollution using the vo.

any comments.....
Vegetable oil is too thick to add in any significant percentage -- you don't want that stuff in your fuel when you start up the engine. It tends to get into the piston ring lands and sump oil, then it polymerizes and inihibits compression and lubrication. Use biodiesel or two stroke oil.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 2:54 am 
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UFO wrote:
nescosmo wrote:
What about using vegetabel oil and not 2 cycle oil, would it better or not, would it cost less pollution using the vo.

any comments.....
Vegetable oil is too thick to add in any significant percentage -- you don't want that stuff in your fuel when you start up the engine. It tends to get into the piston ring lands and sump oil, then it polymerizes and inihibits compression and lubrication. Use biodiesel or two stroke oil.



I am not talkig about one gallon of vo, I am talking about half or one quart per tank, just to keep lubricity up. Don't you think that vo is cleaner than w3, or is w3 the perfect choice for lubricity.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 3:40 am 
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nescosmo wrote:
UFO wrote:
nescosmo wrote:
What about using vegetabel oil and not 2 cycle oil, would it better or not, would it cost less pollution using the vo.

any comments.....
Vegetable oil is too thick to add in any significant percentage -- you don't want that stuff in your fuel when you start up the engine. It tends to get into the piston ring lands and sump oil, then it polymerizes and inihibits compression and lubrication. Use biodiesel or two stroke oil.



I am not talkig about one gallon of vo, I am talking about half or one quart per tank, just to keep lubricity up. Don't you think that vo is cleaner than w3, or is w3 the perfect choice for lubricity.


Cleaner or not, the issue is still VISCOSITY.

Also, the cost doesn't look to work in it's favor. Clean veggie oil is running better than 5 bucks a gallon at Wally World, and a quart per tank, versus 2 stroke oil at 8 bucks a gallon and 4 to 8 ounces per tank.

I'm saving my veggie oil to deep-fry a Christmas turkey.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 3:23 am 
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I have 1300 gallons of very clean filtered WVO sitting in my buddy's shed. I didn't pay one dime for it other than time invested in picking it up and filtering it. I can only run 25-30% in winter with out smoke. Change the oil every 5k on veggy and you will have no problems with polymerization. We will soon have an 11" 3300 rpm centrifuge for perfectly clean oil which will save a lot of time in settling and dewatering. I am also doing some experiments with turpentine and acetone for thinning the oil. If anyone else has any experience with WVO let me know because I can hardly afford the meth for bio anymore.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 12:01 am 
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nursecosmo wrote:
I have 1300 gallons of very clean filtered WVO sitting in my buddy's shed. I didn't pay one dime for it other than time invested in picking it up and filtering it. I can only run 25-30% in winter with out smoke. Change the oil every 5k on veggy and you will have no problems with polymerization. We will soon have an 11" 3300 rpm centrifuge for perfectly clean oil which will save a lot of time in settling and dewatering. I am also doing some experiments with turpentine and acetone for thinning the oil. If anyone else has any experience with WVO let me know because I can hardly afford the meth for bio anymore.
Just my opinion, but common rail direct injection diesels do not last long burning cold vegetable oil. But my opinion is based on evidence, there are numerous and dramatic examples. The Libby is not a good candidate for your "experiments".

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 1:11 am 
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UFO thanks for your concern about my little tractor. Common rail di engines don't like oil when cold but cold oil is not necessarily bad for it as long as it the cylinder walls are hot and the viscosity is low enough to be injected properly. The CRD doesn't like straight oil at idle for some reason but has no smoke at cruising rpm. Anyway to be on the safe side I run it at a low % to avoid deposits/coking etc. As for evidence and numerous and dramatic examples examples running blends, how are they documented? where are they at? Do you have any first hand knowledge? Check out the link to this guys weekly post running much higher percentages for many many miles in an 04 and 05 cummins with the same injection system as our CRD.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/foru ... 9-dse-truc

Even if you run only 5% which is the same as the blends that many oil companies marketed when low sulfur diesel came out. The viscosity will be less than b100 and the lubricity will be excellent. I would like to get together with any others running veg in the CRD to compare notes. Again thank you UFO and any others concerned with my engines wellfare. Please feel free to send me any real evidence of problems with using a sensible % blend.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:17 am 
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retmil46 wrote:
nescosmo wrote:
UFO wrote:
nescosmo wrote:
What about using vegetabel oil and not 2 cycle oil, would it better or not, would it cost less pollution using the vo.

any comments.....
Vegetable oil is too thick to add in any significant percentage -- you don't want that stuff in your fuel when you start up the engine. It tends to get into the piston ring lands and sump oil, then it polymerizes and inihibits compression and lubrication. Use biodiesel or two stroke oil.



I am not talkig about one gallon of vo, I am talking about half or one quart per tank, just to keep lubricity up. Don't you think that vo is cleaner than w3, or is w3 the perfect choice for lubricity.


Cleaner or not, the issue is still VISCOSITY.

Also, the cost doesn't look to work in it's favor. Clean veggie oil is running better than 5 bucks a gallon at Wally World, and a quart per tank, versus 2 stroke oil at 8 bucks a gallon and 4 to 8 ounces per tank.

I'm saving my veggie oil to deep-fry a Christmas turkey.




I read here that is not 4 to 8 ounces per tank but per gallons of diesel fuel, please corect me if I'm wrong.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 12:12 pm 
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1/2 to 1oz\gallon: 1/2oz for the CRD - 1oz for mechanical pumps DB2, DS4, VP44 - maybe 1oz for the CRD if towing - pressures are up when loaded

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 Post subject: 2 questions
PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:41 pm 
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Question 1: So if I start running B5 in my Cummins, will that be enough lube to stop using Power Service and TC-w3? Question 2: Can I safely run B20 in my Cummins?

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 Post subject: Re: 2 questions
PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:40 pm 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
Question 1: So if I start running B5 in my Cummins, will that be enough lube to stop using Power Service and TC-w3? Question 2: Can I safely run B20 in my Cummins?


Absolutely. If your cummins is 96 or newer the fuel lines wont have to be replacer either.

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 Post subject: Re: 2 questions
PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:54 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
dieselenthusiast wrote:
Question 1: So if I start running B5 in my Cummins, will that be enough lube to stop using Power Service and TC-w3? Question 2: Can I safely run B20 in my Cummins?


Absolutely. If your cummins is 96 or newer the fuel lines wont have to be replacer either.


Power Service has other benefits that BD does not, such as cleaning injector deposits and dispersing water in fuel.

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 Post subject: Re: 2 questions
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 12:08 am 
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CATCRD wrote:
nursecosmo wrote:
dieselenthusiast wrote:
Question 1: So if I start running B5 in my Cummins, will that be enough lube to stop using Power Service and TC-w3? Question 2: Can I safely run B20 in my Cummins?


Absolutely. If your cummins is 96 or newer the fuel lines wont have to be replacer either.


Power Service has other benefits that BD does not, such as cleaning injector deposits and dispersing water in fuel.


Thanks guys, with all our many travels, trips pulling the travel trailer, and other random trips, it appears that I can keep B5 - B20 in my tank most of the time. I’ve searched Kansas, Colorado, New Mexico, and Missouri for BD stations as those are the states that we seem to travel within the most. Assuming that all the bio-diesel stops will be quality blends of bio-fuel, I’m pretty happy to make the switch. We have B5 in the town that we’re living in. Like CATCRD said, I will continue to use Power Service as it has other benefits that BD does not have.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 11:21 am 
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BD is an excellent cleaner.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:07 pm 
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Hi all,

In the last two days, my wife and I put 1500 miles on our CRD driving from PA to TX. This trip was a great opportunity to crank out some all-highway tanks for fuel economy testing. Note that our rig is experiencing poor fuel economy right now and I haven't yet determined the cause, but that doesn't invalidate the testing.

I filled some empty plastic 20oz soda bottles with 6oz Powerservice and 6oz TC-W3 2-stoke oil (the cheap stuff in the blue gallon jugs from WallyWorld). Being only 12oz in a 20oz bottle, these are easy to pour in the tank without any spills.

On our trip down, we ran through three tanks:

  • The first tank was without the additive. We coasted just below empty into a very questionable truck stop whose fuel pumps had the old-school noisy rotating metering readout wheels. The pump did not shut off properly, and I managed to overflow a few pints onto the ground. The creaky old pump claimed 19.853 gallons, which I find very hard to believe given that we only drove 25 miles after the low fuel light dinged on. Nevertheless, on the first tank the numbers were:

    471.0 miles / 19.853 gallons = 23.7 mpg without additive (fuel from PA)
  • On the second tank, we added a 12oz additive bottle before refueling above. This tank included an overnight stay at a motel, so it has one cold start on it. Nothing remarkable happened on this tank - we simply cranked out the highway miles, and boy they just kept on coming! On this fillup, the nozzle was a skinny "auto diesel" nozzle and once again I managed to belch a couple pints of fuel onto the ground (argh). The numbers on the second tank were:

    512.7 miles / 18.747 gallons = 27.3 mpg WITH additive (fuel from VA)
  • On the third tank, we ran without the additive again. We were driving a few mph faster on this tank due to faster traffic conditions. The refuel was clean with no spilled fuel. Apparently my wife is a better refueler of her CRD than I am. The numbers for this third tank were:

    436.7 miles / 18.646 gallons = 23.4 mpg without additive (fuel from TN)

Now, this sure does seem to suggest that the additive yields an improvement in fuel economy. Is the gain really that large? Well, I'm not so sure of that since there are lots of variables - each tank is filled to a different point, driving conditions vary, traffic conditions vary, the quality of the fuel itself can vary, my wife and I rotated driving duties every three hours and she drives faster than I do. I'm also not sure if the #2 winter blend was present in the tank we got in TN, as I don't know how far south that goes. Still, I would say that there's enough evidence here to suggest that it's worth my fellow forum members trying it as well.

On the trip back up north, I will try to refine the experiment a bit more by carefully refilling to more consistent levels, and using cruise control at consistent speeds as much as possible to rule out driver differences.

Head to Wallyworld and buy yourself a 96oz jug of Powerservice, a gallon of TC-W3 outboard oil, and a 6-pack of 20oz sodas of your choice. Get drinking, wash and dry out those bottles, mix up some additive bottles, and get testing! If the real gains are anywhere remotely close to my noisy empirical data above, this brew more than pays for itself! Just think how much money in fuel even just an extra 50 miles per tank would keep in your pocket...

- Chris

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:21 pm 
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Chris.

The power service silver bottle says for maximum Cetane boost of 6 points add 96 ounces to 150 gallons of fuel. If you round 96 ounces up to 100 that's 1 ounce per a gallon and a half or 10 ounces per 15 gallons of fuel. After READING :oops: the directions I added 10 ounces on my last tank as 15 gallons is about when I refuel

Have a safe trip back.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:27 pm 
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Joe Romas wrote:
Chris.

The power service silver bottle says for maximum Cetane boost of 6 points add 96 ounces to 150 gallons of fuel. If you round 96 ounces up to 100 that's 1 ounce per a gallon and a half or 10 ounces per 15 gallons of fuel. After READING :oops: the directions I added 10 ounces on my last tank as 15 gallons is about when I refuel

Have a safe trip back.

Joe


Hi Joe,

Thanks for sharing! I went with the "300 gallon" ratio for my first brew recipe, figuring that I was also adding the 2-stoke oil into the mix as well and I didn't want to overwhelm the poor critter with an abundance of additives. I also figured that if I got the majority of benefit while using half the amount of PS, it would help the economics a bit too. My plan was to increase the PS amount if the brew didn't seem to do much, but so far it seems like it might be helping more than I expected. I guess I'll know more when other folks try this out, and when I do some more controlled experimentation on the return trip. I'm curious if my good fuel economy results are a glitch in the data, or if they're for real.

- Chris

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:10 am 
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To bring Lubricity as you all said the TC-W3 is ok, but what about soot. The ULSD at 15ppm bring down the soot more than the 500 ppm that we used to use.

But whould'n the TC-W3 2 cycle oil bring the soot up and dirty our intake faster -is the risk worth it?-


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:34 am 
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if you use a ash less oil you are ok

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 3:07 am 
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Diggerfreek wrote:
if you use a ash less oil you are ok



Well what about Wallyworld oil, is that one ash less.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 3:19 am 
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yes, the supertech 2 stroke is ash less. it works great in my dads 05 ram

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