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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:22 pm 
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Well I fall under the "drive like grandpa" category, so I'm kinda turning anal now. I rarely feed the speed to my ride. I don't fully understand the problem with the EGR, so I think that makes it even worse.

One thing I'm wondering is if this problem is one of those not if you are going to have it but when types of things? I'm trying to figure out if the Provent filter is the way to go. Cause if it's one of those problems that is going to happen no matter what I would like to prevent it before it becomes a problem.

I've done a lot of reading on this forum about the issue, but it doesn't seem to put the worries to rest. I woke up this morning and didn't even want to drive my liberty, so I fired up the Cherokee and drove to work. In my opinion this is a bs problem to have and it pisses me off to no extent that Jeep did something this stupid.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 1:54 pm 
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Ricky5 wrote:
Well I fall under the "drive like grandpa" category, so I'm kinda turning anal now. I rarely feed the speed to my ride. I don't fully understand the problem with the EGR, so I think that makes it even worse.

One thing I'm wondering is if this problem is one of those not if you are going to have it but when types of things? I'm trying to figure out if the Provent filter is the way to go. Cause if it's one of those problems that is going to happen no matter what I would like to prevent it before it becomes a problem.

I've done a lot of reading on this forum about the issue, but it doesn't seem to put the worries to rest. I woke up this morning and didn't even want to drive my liberty, so I fired up the Cherokee and drove to work. In my opinion this is a bs problem to have and it pisses me off to no extent that Jeep did something this stupid.
It is a when problem, not an if problem. The Provent will prevent the oil from mixing with the EGR soot and prevent the intake manifold from clogging, or you can disable the EGR or both.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 2:18 pm 
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Sorry for my ignorance, but what exactly does the EGR do? What are the pros/cons of disconnecting it?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 3:04 pm 
Ricky5 wrote:
Well I fall under the "drive like grandpa" category, so I'm kinda turning anal now. I rarely feed the speed to my ride. I don't fully understand the problem with the EGR, so I think that makes it even worse.

One thing I'm wondering is if this problem is one of those not if you are going to have it but when types of things? I'm trying to figure out if the Provent filter is the way to go. Cause if it's one of those problems that is going to happen no matter what I would like to prevent it before it becomes a problem.

I've done a lot of reading on this forum about the issue, but it doesn't seem to put the worries to rest. I woke up this morning and didn't even want to drive my liberty, so I fired up the Cherokee and drove to work. In my opinion this is a bs problem to have and it pisses me off to no extent that Jeep did something this stupid.


The following was taken from a town hall discussion on the edmunds.com website for the discussion of the Liberty CRD:

Quote:
While investigating some of the questions in post # 2537, I came across several articles concerning domestic (U.S.) diesel fuel quality and several of the issues frequently repeated here in this forum.

1. Stuttering or missing, sagging performance are all related to the cetane number of the fuel. With the majority of refiners selling 40 cetane fuel, there lies some of the performance issues including lower than expected fuel economy. The more I read and learn, the more I realize that the engine in the CRD is designed to run on 50+ cetane fuel, and not the crap they sell here. Yes, you can get away with 40 cetane, but at the loss of performance and fuel economy and increased emissions.

2. EGR problems are related to the sulfur content of domestic and Canadian diesel fuels. The burning of sulfur yields sulfur dioxide and a little sulfur trioxide. When mixed with water, they produce sulfurous acid and sulfuric acid, both very corrosive substances as we all know. These acids also attack the exhaust system , the cylinder walls , rings, etc. The sulfur burn by products also poison the catalytic converter and increase particulate emissions. These particulates can eventually clog the converter, leading to other issues.

So what do we do?

1. Find a higher cetane fuel. Locally in Montgomery County MD, Shell sells a 45 cetane fuel. Add some cetane improver to that so hopefully you end up with a cetane of 50+. If you cannot find Shell, just add the cetane improver or buy a fuel where you know the cetane is greater than or equal to 50. I would even suggest posting places where the cetane of the fuel is known to be 45 or better.

2. The sulfur issue will not go away until sometime in 2006, so we are stuck. For those of you who live in CA, you should have access to their low sulfur ARCO "EC" diesel fuel. As for the acid problem, change your oil more frequently than recommended in the owners manual, especially if you are using the 0W-40 oil. I recommend a 5W-40 oil like the Mobil 1 Truck and SUV, or Shell Rotella, Valvoline Blue Extreme, Amsoil 5W-40. All have the CI-4 detergency rating and a very high TBN. Once the ULS diesel is being sold nationwide, then the 0W-40 oil should be fine and the EGR issues that some of you are facing should go away.


If you are not following this discussion forum on the edmunds site, you should. Here is the message that followed the one above:

Quote:
Thanks for your prompt and obviously thorough investigation of the answers to the questions I posted!! I went to the link you thoughtfully provided, thank you very much.

Your findings give great credence to the DC product development & sales district manager I spoke with here in South Carolina. He is from Australia and his comment that the only place they have had issues with EGR and performance issues is here in North America. His belief was that it was due to the low quality of fuel available here. We do have crap for fuel! I will be using a cetane booster to try and eliminate/minimize the symptoms I have been having.

Thanks, once again for your investigation and your response.


And more info:

Quote:
1. The minimum cetane requirement in Canada and the U.S. for on-road diesel is 40. In California, it is 47 or 48 depending on refiner size. Smaller refiner gets to make 47 cetane.
2. In the European Union, a minimum cetane of 51 is required.


And even more from the forum:

Quote:
As you've already seen from other replies, the engine is from a reputable builder of diesels. Also comforting to note, is the fact that this engine has been in use in Liberty's in Europe for the past 3 or 4 years (according to Daimler Chrysler product and sales district manager here on east coast). Interesting to note, also, is the fact that the USA/Canada is the only place where Daimler-Chrysler has had EGR problems!!

The whole thing about the fuel being poor quality is ringing truer every day. Especially when you think about the fact that in Europe, diesel passenger cars are common and here they are not. The demand for quality fuel for diesel passanger cars is much greater there. Hopefully things will come around here in north america.



My advise is this: DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!! :P

We all may or may not get a free EGR replacement from DC before ULSD is available. Not a big deal as most problems should disappear in late 2006. The majority of VW TDI owners have not had intake clogging problems even with crappy fuel - but we only hear about the ones who have. And lastly, if you can find a low blend of biodiesel - get ya some!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 4:13 pm 
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So pretty much if I feed the speed to my ride more and give it some Biodiesel I'll be in good shape!?! :P

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 8:45 pm 
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Just an FYI, Edmunds "Town Hall" is not the best forum to watch.

They ROUTINELY delete posts that the moderators are not fond of. You are not allowed to mention ANY other webistes, and if you are critical of Edmunds at all - your post gets deleted.

Who knows what else has been deleted.

I do not trust information from a forum that so liberally deletes postings. I have no way of knowing what they deleted, or why...

Just an FYI.

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 Post subject: Re: EGRs
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:32 pm 
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oldnavy wrote:
The only thing that is really a draw back with diesel and more so with biodiesel is the growth of fungus and such in the fuel tank, some retailers add the biocide when they order fuel or add it to their tank at delivery. Myself I just buy a bottle of the biocide ($12 to $14 depending where you buy) and add a 1/2 oz to every other tank, and at that rate the bottle will last about 2 years maybe more.


You really don't need to use biocide in your vehicle, unless you plan on storing it for more than six months or so...

If you use your vehicle enough to refuel at least once a month the fuel never sits long enough for fungus to grow... Especially at small quantities like 15 or 20 gallons.

Biocide is *really* nasty stuff for the environment, and people in general. It is really only needed for long term storage of large volumes of fuel.

There are a lot of threads on the biodiesel now forums about biocide, but here is one that seems appropriate:

http://forums.biodieselnow.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=405

There is lots of info about it around too...

You seem like you burn through fuel fast enough that it would not be a concern to you.

Biocide is to diesel what fuel stabilizers are to gasonline... Really only needed for vehicle storage...

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 10:38 pm 
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How do you know what cetane level the fuel is? I went by the Shell station and a King Soopers station and they don't have it on the pumps that I could see.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 10:55 pm 
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I have seen cars less then a year old with blockage from fungi and whatever else grows in the tank. One was really bad and had the crap all over fuel sending unit so bad that you could not see the part that was inside of the tank for all the creamy white stuff on the unit. He was using commercial B100 bought in southern IL and had never used any additive of any kind, because I asked him. However most of the people I know that has had the problem have been running home made B100 or straight WVO. However I have seen it in cars that usually bought the fuel from a small local station (non-biodiesel) that didn't do a large volume and their fuel either hadn't been treated by the distributor or treated by the station.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:09 pm 
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Ricky5 wrote:
How do you know what cetane level the fuel is? I went by the Shell station and a King Soopers station and they don't have it on the pumps that I could see.
There is no way other then to check with the distributor and he may not know. Probably only about 20% (just a guess, it's probably less) of the diesel sold in the US & Canada is 46 cetane or better and dirty fuel is the next big problem which is why some mfg's (Cat for one with a 2 micron) have started using 5 micron or less filters in the trucking industry. Believe it or not the gasoline in the US & Canada isn't much better, we just haven't raised or standards like the rest of the world. I know a couple of VW owners that live near the Mexican border that go into mexico to buy fuel and one in his Diesel truck with the in the bed fuel tank. It's 50+ cetane and ULSD fuel and the VW's love the stuff.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 1:34 am 
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oldnavy, what brand or brands of biocide do you use, and where is it available from? Also, you know of any cetane boosters that actually work?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 7:17 am 
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retmil46 wrote:
oldnavy, what brand or brands of biocide do you use, and where is it available from? Also, you know of any cetane boosters that actually work?
I use Power Service brand cetane booster and buy I buy it at Wal Mart, as for as the the biocide that's also Power Service brand also but I buy it at near by fuel delivery service for the farms.If you want to check out the company here is a link Power Service and I believe they list vendors. Power Service is the number one brand in the trucking industry and can be found at any trucking center and often they have the biocide.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 8:35 am 
valkraider wrote:
Just an FYI, Edmunds "Town Hall" is not the best forum to watch.

They ROUTINELY delete posts that the moderators are not fond of. You are not allowed to mention ANY other webistes, and if you are critical of Edmunds at all - your post gets deleted.

Who knows what else has been deleted.

I do not trust information from a forum that so liberally deletes postings. I have no way of knowing what they deleted, or why...

Just an FYI.


AGREED. I have had my posts deleted so many times I have lost count. Usually due to a reference to a dealer, or product name, or who knows what.

But, for the few good technical bits that get through I still like to keep an eye on it.

I think that this board right here will become the center for the CRD knowledge base, we all just need to keep it up with posting what we find.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 3:42 pm 
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I filled up with some B20 at lunch, and am thinking a Provent filter is in my future. I paid $3.25 a gallon for B20 when regular diesel is $2.81.

It seems from the reading that the Provent filter is just a good thing to have even if you only use B20, yes?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 3:48 pm 
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Ricky5 wrote:
It seems from the reading that the Provent filter is just a good thing to have even if you only use B20, yes?
Yes!!!

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 5:07 pm 
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:P

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 5:12 pm 
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Ricky5 wrote:
:P
Duel threads???

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