I posted this in the General Discussion. Since this vehicle is a CRD I thought I would request help here as well - in case somebody here had some special insight...

Here is the link to my other thread... If you would, please look at it and let me know if you have any thoughts...

Thanks...

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=28660

Cupping on the inside means that tire is turned out at the front while traveling in a straight line, which could mean that the suspension is wanked, such that it is adjustable to spec while static, but forward vehicle movement alters the inclination - this is easily checked by rolling the vehicle forward, braking hard repeatedly, then rolling backward, braking hard repeatedly - an observer should see the wheel position move\recover if the suspension parts are loose - could even be the front wheel bearings are way loose - it is the left front, as the RF does not exhibit symmetrical symptom.

If it just tracks left, without 'pull', then it could be the rear suspension is cocked left, which results in the left tire angled for the shorter radius as the steering is angled for a left turn

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

I've just had this problem ,and for me it was a sticking front brake caliper. On closer inspection the rubber seal had split letting moisture in and putting surface rust on the piston.I have freed it off as a temp repair until my new caliper arrives in next couple of days. It could also be your tracking or if you've used it heavily off road somthing may be bent.

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2004 2.8 crd Limited

Hi Jimmy,

I just did my first brake caliper rebuild on my other car (actually it was all four):

brake rebuild pics

The pictures have captions that explain what is going on. It wasn't too bad, and was actually kinda fun. Hopefully the KJ's calipers are as easy to rebuild, since it sounds like I'll be doing this at some point on the KJ too.

- Chris

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Used to own:
2006 CRD Sport
Suncoast TC, Transgo shift kit, Inmotion, ORM, EHM, Magnaflow SS exhaust, Fumoto valve, EVIC added, Hensley TruControl brake controller, Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D in spring/summer/fall, FIA winter front and Blizzaks in winter

Hi Chris i was going too buy a repair kit comprimising of a new piston ,dust seal and inner seal, but a mechanic i know said he has seen varying results with repair kits . Some seal fine and others dont so i opted for a new caliper for peace of mind. Looks like you did a comprehensive rebuild on your Beemer brakes though,did you have any problems with the seals?.

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2004 2.8 crd Limited

Hi Jimmy,

So far so good from testing the car inside the garage with the engine running and the booster powered. I also took it out for a spin to bed the pads, but it snowed that same evening, Since then, there's been too much snow to road-test the car any further. I was told to buy the ATE rebuild kits and not the no-name cheapies at the auto parts store. I think the key to a good rebuild is good quality rebuild kits.

- Chris

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Used to own:
2006 CRD Sport
Suncoast TC, Transgo shift kit, Inmotion, ORM, EHM, Magnaflow SS exhaust, Fumoto valve, EVIC added, Hensley TruControl brake controller, Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D in spring/summer/fall, FIA winter front and Blizzaks in winter

Your post is accurate but I would just add this regarding rebuilds. Successful rebuilds are not random. Success depends on the condition of the piston and cylinder. Even when the piston is new the cylinder has to be in really good condition. Honing can make a cylinder okay but the life will never be as good as new that is not defective.

My time is worth so much more. What's the savings on a rebuild kit vs. reman caliper??

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets