timing belt tools?

dieseltoyz · **Joined:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:28 pm **Posts:** 64

I am currently prepping an engine for an install and cant seem to find the tools to set the cams for re-installing the timing belt. The FSM shows (2) set pins to lock each individual camshaft and another tool VM tool # 1085 to keep the cams in place when setting the belt. Any info here from those who have done their own belts is appreciated. -Todd

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat Feb 02, 2008 10:51 pm

I have a link to what the tools look like but don't know who sell them. According to the service manual you will the crank 90 degree after lock pin and intake and exhaust cams timing pins. They are VM 1080, VM 1053 and VM 1052. VM 1085 is only used to time the camshafts to pulleys if the cam pulleys are removed.

http://www.expomo.com/newsdesk/files/elenco.pdf

dieseltoyz · **Joined:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:28 pm **Posts:** 64

I had to remove the cam pulleys as the intake was clogged with sludge from the PCV/EGR debacle. Removal of the intake requires pulling the cam pulleys and front cover. -Todd

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat Feb 02, 2008 11:26 pm

Wow that's a lot of work. I wonder if there is any way we can find a way to clean after the fact running the engine with fuel additive or flogger??

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Feb 02, 2008 11:39 pm

Early BMW gassers had a lot of problems with carbon on the intake valves. They would pull the manifold turn the crank until the intake closed and blast with walnut shells. Techron came along and that was the end of the problem.
If it can be done without hitting a water jacket, I would be tempted to drill and tap a hole with the intake pressurized, exhaust plugged and a running shop-vac next to the hole. Then make a nozzle with a very small hole to slowly spray the Techron into the intake runner with the engine running.
Sounds a lot easier than pulling the whole assembly off the top of the cylinder head.

Steve

dieseltoyz · **Joined:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:28 pm **Posts:** 64

There was so much in the intake, the runners were 80% clogged with goo. I ran my finger up in the intake and it was like putting my finger into a full jar of peanut butter. That amount of chemical cleaning would not be safe. The intake took me an hour to pull off.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:26 pm

dieseltoyz wrote:

There was so much in the intake, the runners were 80% clogged with goo. I ran my finger up in the intake and it was like putting my finger into a full jar of peanut butter. That amount of chemical cleaning would not be safe. The intake took me an hour to pull off.

How many miles were on that engine? Some people here without the EHM/Provent and ORM should be worried.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:56 pm

Do you do allot of around town driving?
Most of my miles are via expressway to and from the two Chicago Airports and week end get aways.
When I changed my filter at 25,000 I had very little oil and the dirt was not too bad.
Around the Chicago area in the winter Salt Dust and Salt Spray are the problem, I may change the filter in spring just to get rid of the Salt in the paper, it is cheap enough.

Steve

dieseltoyz · **Joined:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:28 pm **Posts:** 64

the engine has 57,014 miles on it. I purchased it for R&D for our kits so I am unsure of the driving habits but I verified the mileage when I went to initially look at the vehicle at the yard. It was a rear total vehicle and the cluster was still installed. They fired up the engine and revved it up. It seemed to run great so I bought it and took it to the shop. It was only after I began cleaning stuff up that I noticed the intake was so dirty. The MAP sensor was much like the ones here on the forums that I've seen. So I removed the intake flange and shined a light up in there and it was horrific! I probably removed over 2 cups of grime within 5 minutes of scraping with just my finger. It was then that I decided to remove the intake and have it hot-tanked. There's just no way to get to the runners without pulling the intake and hot-tanking it. VW Tdi's have this exact same issue so I was kind of expecting it. -Todd

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Feb 03, 2008 5:10 pm

I wonder if the previous owner ran mineral oil instead of synthetic and let it go too long. Rebuilt vehicles are OK, our 91 Jetta Turbo Diesel started out as a 16 valve GLI that was a theft recovery that was stripped. It spent the last 7 years in our fleet as a 1.9 Turbo Diesel when the 1.6 Turbo Diesel overheated and died.
If the cam is OK chances the rest of the engine is also OK. I had several Toyota Cressida engines and BMW engines I have swapped out cam shafts on due to excessively long oil change intervals.

Great think you brought this CRD back to life.

Steve

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Feb 03, 2008 8:41 pm

The point is not about driving habits or engine oil drain intervals/type. The sludge is in the air intake, where only air should be. Because of the design of the engine, i.e. no crankcase vent filtration, with EGR, an oily, sooty residue builds up in the intake manifold. This isn't like the sludge some engines develop in the crankcase or under the valve cover. I guess we're lucky in that we can prevent it with the EHM/ORM.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Feb 03, 2008 8:50 pm

Driving does effect sludge and EGR residue in the intake. Having more blow by past the piston rings will increase the oil and sludge deposits. I would bet that none of this ever popped up when the engine was run on the Dynomometer, but put it into the real world, goo in the intake. Knowing the conditions Diesel Toyz development CRD went through would have been nice to know, but it was bought as a rebuilder special with unknown history.
If I need to pull my intake, so be it, I have quite a few miles to go yet.

Steve

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Feb 04, 2008 2:13 am

warp2diesel wrote:

I wonder if the previous owner ran mineral oil instead of synthetic and let it go too long. Rebuilt vehicles are OK, our 91 Jetta Turbo Diesel started out as a 16 valve GLI that was a theft recovery that was stripped. It spent the last 7 years in our fleet as a 1.9 Turbo Diesel when the 1.6 Turbo Diesel overheated and died.
If the cam is OK chances the rest of the engine is also OK. I had several Toyota Cressida engines and BMW engines I have swapped out cam shafts on due to excessively long oil change intervals.

Great think you brought this CRD back to life.

Steve

back to life as in new life in a 'yota :wink:

accurate · **Joined:** Wed Sep 26, 2007 8:34 pm **Posts:** 5

I run a can of seafoam in my fuel tank every so often and I have only cleaned my sensor once and it was not to bad. I hope my intake looks as good. Maybe give it a try. I use seafoam in every engine I own.

Trailbreaker · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2008 8:22 am

dieseltoyz
Here is where I got mine.Same place the dealer does.The Camshaft locking pins were $26.00 ea.And the Flywheel pin only $8.00
http://www.spxkentmoore.com/

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:15 pm

Trailbreaker wrote:

dieseltoyz
Here is where I got mine.Same place the dealer does.The Camshaft locking pins were $26.00 ea.And the Flywheel pin only $8.00
http://www.spxkentmoore.com/

excelllent!

dieseltoyz · **Joined:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:28 pm **Posts:** 64

Thanks for the hints. I also called Miller tools. They can get them as well. The cam sprocket tool is $185 and takes a few weeks to order. I will call SPX Kentmoore and check their availability. Anyone who needs to use them PM me. I'll only need them for a brief time. -Todd

GilaMonster · **Posted:** Wed Feb 27, 2008 2:35 pm

I have no idea about the camshaft tool, but when I needed camshaft locking pin for a BMW overhaul, I bought the right size roll pin at the hardware store and used it.
Also did the same for a flywheel locking pin when over hauling a clutch.

ETA: Once I welded the roll pin to a screw driver to act as a handle.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Feb 27, 2008 3:56 pm

dieseltoyz wrote:

Thanks for the hints. I also called Miller tools. They can get them as well. The cam sprocket tool is $185 and takes a few weeks to order. I will call SPX Kentmoore and check their availability. Anyone who needs to use them PM me. I'll only need them for a brief time. -Todd

excellent! may have to take you up on that soon.

timing belt tools?

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