SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Sun Feb 10, 2008 1:10 pm

crd liberty,

That is what i was looking at as i was typing the post out

.. thanks

crd liberty · **Posted:** Sun Feb 10, 2008 1:26 pm

I added the wording on it to keep myself straight
on which end went where.
Steve

crd liberty · **Posted:** Sun Feb 10, 2008 1:32 pm

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/tem ... n_post.gif

Also print this out for reference as you hack the wires.
AS told by gmctd. Great help.
Be wary of the DrkGrn/Blu strip. My harness has 2 of these wires
and of course, I tied into the wrong one. Had to take it all
apart and re-do.
Steve

crd liberty · **Posted:** Sun Feb 10, 2008 1:33 pm

That didn't work. Its in the TECH section. As told by gcmtd.
Steve

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:35 am

I heard mention this kit does more than just turn off the CEL - that perhaps some other functions are enhanced. What else does it do?

- Chris

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:38 am

KeighJeigh wrote:

I heard mention this kit does more than just turn off the CEL - that perhaps some other functions are enhanced. What else does it do?

- Chris

if you feel inclined to read the entire thread... it takes a while... it is explained in detail with some debate....but

you actually hack into the wires going to the MAF, EGR, AFC and tranny P/N switch..

the EGR NEVER gets power so it is always closed. the circuit board makes the CPU think it is working correctly... since the CPU thinks the EGR is working correctly you have no CEL and a smooth shut down.

I gather that just the ORM there is a rough shut down because the AFV is not working correctly cause the MAF is unplugged.

and if i am wron i know i will be corrected, but that is what i get out of the thread....oh and all the sensors are plugged in as normal.

crd liberty · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2008 5:23 pm

Correct.
The FCV is always open except in park or neutral that
it closes to aid in a smoother shut down.
No air, no runnnie.
Late 1960's I ran a boat with 4 GMC 671 diesels coupled
to twin screws. I wasn't the Mech on board but we were all
taught in case of a runaway engine, jam every piece of
material you can find into the mouth of the intake to
stop the air flow.
Never had the problem so don't know if it works or not.
Steve :lol:

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:03 pm

crd liberty wrote:

I wasn't the Mech on board but we were all
taught in case of a runaway engine, jam every piece of
material you can find into the mouth of the intake to
stop the air flow.
Never had the problem so don't know if it works or not.
Steve :lol:

it works.. some people on the Mercedes boards have had to do it... takes a set though to get that close to a runaway from what i hear.

another option i have heard is to fog the intake with a CO2 fire extinguisher same idea but you can keep a slight bit further distance... or set it up on a toggle switch and flip it in the cab at the first hint of a runaway.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:21 pm

Got it!
Thank you.
I did read the whole thread but the explanations I just read above were better.

- Chris

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:10 pm

KeighJeigh wrote:

Got it!
Thank you.
I did read the whole thread but the explanations I just read above were better.

- Chris

yeah they were kinda broken up and debated over and i got lost reading them too... that is why we ask

chrispitude · **Posted:** Fri Feb 15, 2008 6:30 pm

Hi all,

I was looking for a source of automotive wire by-the-foot today for my EVIC install, and I came across the following site:

http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/wire.aspx

I thought this might also be interesting to the SEGR crowd! The page mentions something interesting:

Quote:

The primary wire found on the shelf of your local auto parts store does not withstand heat and soldering very well.

When using a soldering iron with our TXL/GXL wire, the insulation withstands the heat and does not melt as the lesser quality primary wire does.

I've noticed the melting insulation on the cheaper discount parts store wire. Their shipping is very reasonable - I added four 8ft lengths of 20ga TXL wire to my cart, and the shipping was only $3. That brought the total shipped cost to $11 - probably cheaper than fuel + admission + checkout cost for a junkyard trip to scrounge for real automotive wire pieces!

They have a decent selection of gauges and colors with a few striping options. Does anyone know of any other similar sites with better prices or striping selection?

- Chris

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Feb 15, 2008 6:53 pm

Yes, the insulation will pull back, but if you are splicing, you can simply cover it with heat shrink to protect the bare wire.

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2008 2:42 pm

this might sound like a dumb and obvious question... but... should i disconnect the battery when i am installing this... i think yes but i just want to make sure.

crd liberty · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2008 3:02 pm

I would hope so. Sides that when you get into this you need room.
I removed the battery, removed the fuel filter and the bracket that holds it.
The harness runs behind the fuel filter bracket.
Battery gone leaves a space for a flashlight to help see. Nice little platform there.
As you know, both harness holders should be removed
to check the wires tying into. They will kind of lay in the battery
platform as well.
Steve

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2008 4:46 pm

okay i decided to hold off on this till tomorrow... it'll be a bit warmer and i can get a good early start and not have to worry about light...

one more question though,,, this is spliced in on the raceway on top of the engine right... well i guess it could be anywhere but that would be the easiest spot

crd liberty · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2008 5:30 pm

Hi Trevor
Have you looked in the crd tech section segr as told by gmctd?
You want to do this.
Both the handles should come off the ecm and the lower one as well.
Should upwrap the clothie thing from them so to see all the wires.
With fuel filter and bracket out of the way, pop off the plastic
cover over the raceway and hole harness will be accessiable.
Look in the plastic harness raceway, there is a slot there for another wire
to come up in there. Do your work around that area and your wire will
come up thru that same slot.
Be very weary of the Drkble/Grn stripe. one is light green stripe and other is
dark green strip. Yeah, right. Both mine are dark grn stripe and of course, I tied
into it without looking around to see the other one. If you happen to do this
it runs the low speed fan or aux fan if you will. I had to redo mine and make it right.
I was from 5am to 3pm next day only several hours to change that 1 wire around.
Good luck my friend and only have a beer after it is all done.
Steve

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2008 5:41 pm

Steve,

Thanks for the info. I have read every thread i could find on the topic. i have also removed C1 and C2 and replaced them successfully. I am just in search of the easiest way to do this. I thought the raceway on the engine but your way sounds like it might be easier. and more hidden because of the fuel head. and if there is a place for another wire bundle to come through that is another plus. i might take the garage tonight and turn all the lights on and use a head lamp. i have the unit in the cab and though the grommet they are all just sitting and waiting to be spliced in.

I'll prolly have a few beers after all this is done.

i am also surprised that the radio kept all my pre-sets AFTER the battery was unplugged and reinstalled.

crd liberty · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:10 pm

Trevor.
2nd time around shouldn't take but several hours but I am old and
was so careful and still got it wrong first time. I ran the wire from the cab
thru that hole in firewall behind the fuel filter bracket so that was easies't for me.
Also you make think of the cuts and splices. I put RVT blue sensor safe
over the solder and also had shrink tape, slid it over that and heated it to shrink.
Good to go! Wish I was there to drink beer and watch. :roll:

I was a nervious wreak doing this first time but alas. Nothin but a thing.
Steve

UFO · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:07 pm

05infernoCRDL wrote:

okay i decided to hold off on this till tomorrow... it'll be a bit warmer and i can get a good early start and not have to worry about light...

one more question though,,, this is spliced in on the raceway on top of the engine right... well i guess it could be anywhere but that would be the easiest spot

Definitely the best spot, inside the raceway.

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Sat Feb 16, 2008 9:53 pm

ok i decided to do this tonight... cut, cut, snip, snip, strip, heat shrink, 2 hours later... test drove it no CEL... started the second time...CEL..

i am a bit lost, all my connections seemed good. i put a pin in the main harness, then in the wire i was going to tie into to check for resistance... all checked out good.
when i pull the fuse to the SEGR box, i can hear clicking.

this is one thing i assumed... all the wires coming from the drivers side was coming from the ECU, the others to the components.

Any suggestions on where to start? i have no way of bench testing.

Thanks in Advance

SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

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