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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:16 am 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
XJMA wrote:
First, go detroit locker front and rear!!! That's definitely the way to go if maximum traction is your goal!!

Second, I've wheeled with a guy with a true trac in the front and a detroit in the rear. He has a CJ7 with 37" boggers and a 350!! When you really get on it, the true trac will lock up to a degree and pull you, but not immediately like a regular detroit. The true trac won't let one wheel just totally sit uselessly while the other spins....it's just one will spin most, and the other wheel will spin just a little bit. I wish I had a video of this guy trying to get up a rocky gully. It was a perfect example of how the true trac works. His front tires were what was holding him up, he just about had it, but one of the front tires was spinning more than the other was. Once he really got on it, it pulled him up and over and he got through.

I have no comment on how the true trac may work with your ESP systems, because I don't know all that much about them. However, my first instinct is that if you had a TT, you'd probably want to shut off the ESP stuff for wheeling. It may help it work better....but who knows??

Lastly, although I am a big advocate of detroits front and rear, considering the issues some people have had with the aluminum housing for the D30 center section on the liberties, a true trac may be a better option for you guys with IFS than the detroit. I guess it would be less stress on your half shafts too...
The Detriot would not be a good choice for the front of a KJ since you can't unlock the hubs,if you have lockable/unlockable front hubs then yes the Detriot would be really good.You can still do it but the street mannars would be very bad and wear the front tires bad.


Bingo.

If these things didn't matter, we would all have spools in the front and back for ultimate traction. I have done this ( in a COmmando), and steering becomes a bit of a pain. Being able to unlock one hub in tight situations greatly improves your turning radius.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:06 am 
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The Detriot would not be a good choice for the front of a KJ since you can't unlock the hubs,if you have lockable/unlockable front hubs then yes the Detriot would be really good.You can still do it but the street mannars would be very bad and wear the front tires bad.



Detroits are automatic locking differentials. When you hit the gas, they lock, when you let off the gas, they unlock. I've got detroits front and rear in my 99XJ, which does not have locking/unlocking hubs. It's perfectly fine on the road. When you're in 2wheel drive, you don't notice the front locker at all. When it's in 4, then steering is a little more difficult, but not that bad. It's worth the extra traction!! A spool in the front would be very bad news, unless it was for wheeling only...but then, it's still not that great. In terms of street driving, having a front detroit isn't going to make your tires wear any faster than if your front end was open.....unless for some reason you felt the need to use 4wd on dry pavement.


Do you work at rock lizard fab?? I've got a rock lizard fab front bumper!!
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 2:14 pm 
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XJMA wrote:
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The Detriot would not be a good choice for the front of a KJ since you can't unlock the hubs,if you have lockable/unlockable front hubs then yes the Detriot would be really good.You can still do it but the street mannars would be very bad and wear the front tires bad.



Detroits are automatic locking differentials. When you hit the gas, they lock, when you let off the gas, they unlock. I've got detroits front and rear in my 99XJ, which does not have locking/unlocking hubs. It's perfectly fine on the road. When you're in 2wheel drive, you don't notice the front locker at all. When it's in 4, then steering is a little more difficult, but not that bad. It's worth the extra traction!! A spool in the front would be very bad news, unless it was for wheeling only...but then, it's still not that great. In terms of street driving, having a front detroit isn't going to make your tires wear any faster than if your front end was open.....unless for some reason you felt the need to use 4wd on dry pavement.


Do you work at rock lizard fab?? I've got a rock lizard fab front bumper!!
Image
Yep,that bumber does look familiar.

I not saying the detriot can't be put up front but your D30 is a little stronger then the KJ's D30A,I just wouldn't recommend it.Now if we had unlockable hubs it wouldn't be no problem but that alloy D30A may not take the stress from the detriot in everyday driving.Also you got to look at that the front CV's are angled and can "fool" it into locking at weird times(even in 2wd) that you don't have to worry about with your straight axle.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:44 pm 
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haha, we're saying the same thing! With the D30a I would recommend the true trac also, just because of the strength issues.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:03 pm 
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wheres the best place to get the TT? and what is good for the rear thats around $500?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:13 pm 
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jsc7002 wrote:
wheres the best place to get the TT? and what is good for the rear thats around $500?

Rear 8.25-------

http://www.4wheelparts.com/PPT5458T5589.aspx?plID=5458&ptID=5589&
http://www.4wheelparts.com/PPT5459T5589.aspx
http://www.4wheelparts.com/PPT406T5589.aspx

Front D30A-----

http://www.4wheelparts.com/partLists.aspx?plID=406&ptID=5589&
http://www.4wheelparts.com/PPT5459T5589.aspx(killer price for the TT,3.73 gears and up)
http://www.4wheelparts.com/PPT5458T5589.aspx



You may find some lower prices but 4WheelParts has free shipping,which could make the prices equal to those cheaper sites.Though Reider Racing is a good place to shop but you need to call for there prices.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:43 pm 
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so would this be a good set up? and do you know if Reider Racing is any cheaper on the gears? also did I select the correct D30 TT?

Dana 30 410 Ratio Front IFS-$140
http://nationaldrivetrain.com/shopsite_ ... na_30.html

Chrysler 8.25" 4.10 Ratio-$170
http://nationaldrivetrain.com/shopsite_ ... r_825.html

Auburn Gear High Performance Series Chrysler 8.25"-$410
http://nationaldrivetrain.com/shopsite_ ... ysler.html

Detroit TrueTrac D30-$410 (the first one right?)
http://nationaldrivetrain.com/shopsite_ ... _dana.html

TOTAL=$1150 w/ shipping

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:51 pm 
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Quote:

Wrong gears for the D30A---call Reider Racing for the correct Dana/Spicer D30A gears

Quote:
Auburn Gear High Performance Series Chrysler 8.25"-$410
http://nationaldrivetrain.com/shopsite_ ... ysler.html
You going to spend $400 on basically a OEM trac-lok?(bassically what that Auburn is),If you want a "POS" LSD you can find OEM trac-lok's for cheap($50-$75) from poeple ditching them for better LSD's/lockers.


Oh you need the TT for 3.73 gears and up,from your link it would be the 2nd one.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:58 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Quote:

Wrong gears for the D30A---call Reider Racing for the correct Dana/Spicer D30A gears

Quote:
Auburn Gear High Performance Series Chrysler 8.25"-$410
http://nationaldrivetrain.com/shopsite_ ... ysler.html
You going to spend $400 on basically a OEM trac-lok?(bassically what that Auburn is),If you want a "POS" LSD you can find OEM trac-lok's for cheap($50-$75) from poeple ditching them for better LSD's/lockers.


Oh you need the TT for 3.73 gears and up,from your link it would be the 2nd one.


If I were to do it again, I would have saved up for a selectable locker instead of replacing my Trac-lok with a TT...

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:03 pm 
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If I were to do it again, I would have saved up for a selectable locker instead of replacing my Trac-lok with a TT...
That's because the TT was made more for front applications and really shines upfront.But it is way better then any clutch type LSD in the rear.Apply your e-brake a little and it will make your rear TT work much better,fools it into "locking up" like a locker.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:05 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
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If I were to do it again, I would have saved up for a selectable locker instead of replacing my Trac-lok with a TT...
That's because the TT was made more for front applications and really shines upfront.But it is way better then any clutch type LSD in the rear.Apply your e-brake a little and it will make your rear TT work much better,fools it into "locking up" like a locker.


I was planning on buying another TT for the front but am not looking forward to paying for having it installed :)

What I might do in the summer is buy an ARB air locker for the rear, sell my TT (for like $300ish), and put it towards the installation of my front TT...

I really wish auburn had the ECTED available for our differentials... It looks awesome.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:13 pm 
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BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
Quote:
If I were to do it again, I would have saved up for a selectable locker instead of replacing my Trac-lok with a TT...
That's because the TT was made more for front applications and really shines upfront.But it is way better then any clutch type LSD in the rear.Apply your e-brake a little and it will make your rear TT work much better,fools it into "locking up" like a locker.


I was planning on buying another TT for the front but am not looking forward to paying for having it installed :)

What I might do in the summer is buy an ARB air locker for the rear, sell my TT (for like $300ish), and put it towards the installation of my front TT...
That's the combo I currently run,TT up front and ARB in the rear,love it!I will actually miss my TT in the front axle when I do my SFA,worked very well up front,really well on ice.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:15 pm 
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I really wish auburn had the ECTED available for our differentials... It looks awesome.
No you don't,many,many problems with those units(as reported here in CO).Plus the LSD part wears out fast and you still need to add friction modifier.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:15 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
Quote:
If I were to do it again, I would have saved up for a selectable locker instead of replacing my Trac-lok with a TT...
That's because the TT was made more for front applications and really shines upfront.But it is way better then any clutch type LSD in the rear.Apply your e-brake a little and it will make your rear TT work much better,fools it into "locking up" like a locker.


I was planning on buying another TT for the front but am not looking forward to paying for having it installed :)

What I might do in the summer is buy an ARB air locker for the rear, sell my TT (for like $300ish), and put it towards the installation of my front TT...
That's the combo I currently run,TT up front and ARB in the rear,love it!I will actually miss my TT in the front axle when I do my SFA,worked very well up front,really well on ice.


Well I don't know when you plan on doing your SFA or what you plan on doing with your front dif but I'll take it off your hands :)

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:16 pm 
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alright thanks how good is th TT in the rear, or should I spensd the extra 150 and get the locker?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 2:52 pm 
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jsc7002 wrote:
alright thanks how good is th TT in the rear, or should I spensd the extra 150 and get the locker?


Get the Locker. Well, I made some assumptions there about how you use your KJ. So...

If you wheel it, get the locker; if it's mall only, get the LSD...

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 5:19 pm 
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i just got off the phone with 4WheelParts.com and they said the Detroit Locker is always locked unless you let off the gas. they said if your driving in on pavement a lot (daily driver) you'll hear a lot of tire squealing and popping coming from the rear.. also said directly "dont use it for a daily driver" He suggested the DTT front and rear. any comments on this? does anyone have a Detroit locker in the rear?

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 6:24 pm 
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2006 KJ wrote:
i just got off the phone with 4WheelParts.com and they said the Detroit Locker is always locked unless you let off the gas. they said if your driving in on pavement a lot (daily driver) you'll hear a lot of tire squealing and popping coming from the rear.. also said directly "dont use it for a daily driver" He suggested the DTT front and rear. any comments on this? does anyone have a Detroit locker in the rear?



I have one in the rear of the TJ
the TJ has a tighter turning circle than the KJ so tire cheerp and popping will be more
I have almost no popping and yes I get some tire squeal but nothing to worry about

My comment ,get the locker for the rear you will not be let down


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 6:42 pm 
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X2........ Myself, i think if you are going to do any wheeling at all a TT is a bad choice for the rear. But i guess people have different definitions of wheeling then me too! I think others should be listening from what beepbeepjeepjeep has to say about the TT in the rear.He just installed it not too long ago and now he want a locker(that should be the first clue not to put a TT in the rear).Learn from others experiences/mistakes and make the right choice the FIRST time. I would do what is tried and tested like TJKJ's arb in the rear and TT up front, that way it is done right and will last for years.





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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 12:20 am 
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I would do what is tried and tested like TJKJ's arb in the rear and TT up front, that way it is done right and will last for years.
I would highly recommend that combo for anyone.It works very good and you do not need to worry about unlocking the front locker while trying to turn.I would stay the same set-up for my SFA swap but the TT is not for 35" tires,only 33" and lower so I'll be putting a ARB in the front HP44.That TT works wonders on ice in 4wd,you turn the wheels and that's the way you turn,no turning and you keep going straight,same in the mud.


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