Reflex, you are soooo easy.

Your ignorance and myopia is showing. It is quite common for consumer level mineral oil (not synthetic) to go upwards of 30K miles before oil change in large diesels, as backed up by oil analysis. I consistently changed the oil in my last semi (using Kendall) at 30K intervals and I finally got out of it at 1.4 million miles and it was still running well with no major repairs to the engine (just a couple of injectors and a head gasket). Synthetics have shown even longer change intervals. This is without bypass filters. With bypass keeping the oil cleaner, it is not uncommon for mineral oil change intervals of over 200K miles and synthetics over 300K miles.

I am using oil analysis on my CRD and using Amsoil. I have good results above 10K miles on the oil in the past. I am presently doing 4K mile analysis intervals to see what the max life on the oil before needing changed.

Keep in mind, oh small minded one, that these examples are repeatable using oils and filters that are available to any consumer, and usually at any retail outlet. Only recently have I used Amsoil products. Before that I got long oil change intervals and long life using any off the shelf product such as Rotella, Castrol, or Mobil.

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Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.

Cowpie - At what point were we talking about large diesels and their 12 quart capacities(and higher)? I said 'consumer level' for a reason.

Once again, if they have nothing to hide, why have they flooded the internet with shills and fake 'review' websites? The product should speak for itself, and they should have nothing to fear from independant analysis.

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2006 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD

I'm on the E36 BMW M3 mailing list. Most of those guys track their cars frequently, and the engines spend a lot of time at 6000-7000rpm on the track. Oil analysis is common among that group because they like to see the wear metal levels in their oils to keep tabs on things. As a side effect, they've found that Amsoil tends to last longer and provide lower wear metal levels than other similar fluids. Other race-oriented brands work well too - this is not a case of "Amsoil > *" - but there's been clear empirical evidence that Amsoil (and others) provides a higher level of performance than off-the-shelf name brand oils, at a somewhat higher price than Joe Sixpack wants to pay for his 3k oil changes.

I agree with bhysjulien - can we take the for/against arguments somewhere else? Go to the bobistheoilguy forums if you really want to discuss this among knowledgeable circles of tribologists (lubrication scientists) and chemists. Thanks.

- Chris

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Used to own:
2006 CRD Sport
Suncoast TC, Transgo shift kit, Inmotion, ORM, EHM, Magnaflow SS exhaust, Fumoto valve, EVIC added, Hensley TruControl brake controller, Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D in spring/summer/fall, FIA winter front and Blizzaks in winter

Learn everything you need to know about oil here:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

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Chad Hargis
Nashville, TN
2008 Grand Cherokee CRD
2005 Liberty CRD *SOLD*

Just for fun http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

Napa Auto Parts carries the Amsoil line. (at least here in Maine) For what it's worth I have logged well over 200K miles between the wife's Ford Taurus and my Mercury Mountaineer. Over 10K miles on two 2 stroke Arctic Cat snowmobiles and well over 500 hours on a Mercury outboard, all without failure. My oil change interval is 10K on the Mountaineer and the Taurus.
Back in the late 70's a friend of mine bought a new Chevy 1/2 ton with a 350. He installed one of Amsoil's remote filter kits, ran their oil and filter. They guaranteed the oil for a year between changes. He racked over 150K over 4 years before he sold it. It ran like a top when it was sold. The body was another story for another time...
Try that with Mobile 1...

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2005 CRD Limited with Select Trac
Bright Silver Metallic
Factory Skid Plates
Factory Towing
Scorpion Trail Stinger chip
"ORM"
RockFather II 2.5" lift
JBA's UCA
Firestone Discoverer M/T, 245/75R16 tires
Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers
Rear Sway Bar removed
Samco Hoses
K&N Filter
Yakima rack
Amsoil.

As an educator, I live in a data driven world. We use instructional strategies based on qualitative data and not quantitative data. Engine oil is the same. There is no way that we can marginalize engine oil and say they are all created equal. Anybody who has rebuilt engines can tell you that certain oils are better than other oils. Amsoil is one of those companies that believes in qualitative data and they allow independent labs to test it. Amsoil has nothing to hide. Take an oil sample and have it analyzed if you want to see qualitative data. I remember talking to an old farmer that changed his oil every 1,000 miles or one month in his Chevy 1969 pickup truck since it was new. The last time I had talked to him, he had rolled over 400,000 miles in his original engine. I can not recall the type of engine oil he was running. That old farmer didn’t know anything about synthetic, but he did know that engine oil is the life blood of an engine. He also knew that changing it every 1,000 miles would ensure a much cleaner and less broken down oil than at 3,000 miles. Today, with Amsoil, and through an oil analysis, we can monitor our oil and how our engine is performing. The truth is, Amsoil has incredible film strength, excellent wear protection, and keeps additives suspended for a longer life. I ran 0W-30 in my 1995 Chevy Tahoe and changed my oil once a year (approximately every 15,000 miles). I sold the Tahoe with 247,000 miles and it didn’t burn a drop of oil. Plus, I had the original transmission (using Amsoil ATF) in which I pulled a trailer. In my Dodge Cummins, the Amsoil Series 3000, HDD 5W30 provides me with better fuel economy and saves me lots of money on oil changes. As a matter of fact, my Amsoil HDD 5W30 sampled at 10,000 miles shows a better oil analysis than Rotella 15W40 at 3,000 miles. What does this tell me? It tells me that Amsoil is a better product. On over-the-road diesel trucks, Amsoil has saved money by avoiding overhauls. No oil company has shown results as Amsoil for over-the-road trucks, race cars, and light duty vehicles.

Eating a raw food diet has been proven to heal the mind and body from all sicknesses and diseases including cancer. Western Medicine says that most of these diseases are incurable. Eating a raw food diet can heal the body? That information isn’t available at the local doctors office. Sometimes good things come from people who care. Amsoil cares about the product enough to keep it off the shelves of Wal-Mart and hopefully into the hands of educated people.

In Conclusion: If you do not plan to keep your vehicle for over 100,000 miles, then why bother? If you’re like me and expect to reach 300,000 - 700,000 from your engines, then the product is worth every penny and may save you thousands in the end.

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2015 Ram Ecodiesel/Big Horn/4x4/Quad Cab
2016 Arctic Fox 22G/Onboard 2500 LP Cummins Onan Generator/160 Watt Solar Panel

I took the road less traveled. Now I'm LOST.

Um, you sounded reasonable right until here:

I want to see the peer reviewed study.

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2006 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD

I don't buy into that Amsoil stuff.

Really, why should I? Oil intervals with a more standard synthetic oil is already at 12,000miles (20,000km) on the KJ. If you don't change oil so often, this must be because the engine does not wear as much. Not near as much particles in the oil. Oil can only hold so many particles, there is a limit to how much crud it can handle and still work well.

There's more to engine oil than just picking up engine wear particles. There's weather conditions that break down the oil as well.

I just don't believe that Amsoil is so much better than a standard synthetic oil. 6 quarts is 6 quarts, there's only so many particles which it can hold. Why believe in the miracle cure, normal reasoning tells me if it sounds too good to believe, it probably is.

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L.O.S.T forever!
Silver 2002 Skoda Fabia TDI, 235,000km
Former car: Jeep KJ 2003 CRD

DIESEL - saving millions of liters of petrol every day!

6 quarts is 6 quarts. True. And 20 gallons is 20 gallons. Would you rather put fuel from a no-name establishment or from a reputable gas station? Want to drink a glass of water from a hose or from a filtered source? It could go on and on.

Same but different I suppose and to each his own.

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Nanette

03 Freedom with some neat stuff done to it that I learned about here.

Nicely said CaKJFreedom

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2015 Ram Ecodiesel/Big Horn/4x4/Quad Cab
2016 Arctic Fox 22G/Onboard 2500 LP Cummins Onan Generator/160 Watt Solar Panel

I took the road less traveled. Now I'm LOST.

For me that is not what I'm after. I don't care for low-quality stuff. Do you regard Mobil 1 Synt-S as low-quality?

What I am after is do you want to go with Perrier or is Evian ok to drink?

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L.O.S.T forever!
Silver 2002 Skoda Fabia TDI, 235,000km
Former car: Jeep KJ 2003 CRD

DIESEL - saving millions of liters of petrol every day!

Hi Uffe,

If I'm back from a hike and I'm thirsty, I'll gulp down tap water. If I'm having a glass of wine with dinner, I don't mind spending some money on the experience.

For maintenance fluids which are only changed occasionally, why not spend a little extra for something better? If you are changing your oil every 3k miles (I don't), any synthetic crankcase oil would do the trick.

- Chris

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Used to own:
2006 CRD Sport
Suncoast TC, Transgo shift kit, Inmotion, ORM, EHM, Magnaflow SS exhaust, Fumoto valve, EVIC added, Hensley TruControl brake controller, Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D in spring/summer/fall, FIA winter front and Blizzaks in winter

Why should I spent more money for something that does the same for me as the other stuff? The car drives, handles, tastes, feels and is the same if I use amsoil or some quality but normal synthetic oil. Intervals might not be the same, that's a gamble you guys can take, I'm sticking with the factory specs for now.

Mobil 1 Synth-S is a quality product to begin with. I'm not pouring in some 15w-40 mineral oil which costs $3 per quart...

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L.O.S.T forever!
Silver 2002 Skoda Fabia TDI, 235,000km
Former car: Jeep KJ 2003 CRD

DIESEL - saving millions of liters of petrol every day!

That's exactly my point. I'm not overly picky about crankcase oil - Mobil 1 or Rotella synthetic is fine, and they are indeed quality products in their own rights. But for fluids which aren't changed often and can impact the fuel economy and longevity, I don't mind spending a few extra dollars per quart for many tens of thousands of miles of slightly improved service.

- Chris

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Used to own:
2006 CRD Sport
Suncoast TC, Transgo shift kit, Inmotion, ORM, EHM, Magnaflow SS exhaust, Fumoto valve, EVIC added, Hensley TruControl brake controller, Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D in spring/summer/fall, FIA winter front and Blizzaks in winter

But the oil being used is the same "consumer" oil that you would put in a CRD or a Dodge Cummins. Same "consumer" Rotella, Mobil Delvac, etc. Just because it is going in a large diesel does not magically make it last longer. There is NO difference in the oil and to say it can't last over 6K miles is not factual. It depends on a lot of factors. You would be right in saying the oil won't last 6K miles if the engine does nothing but idle or never warmed up properly. The acid buildup would deplete the TBN really quick. A large diesel that is used for primarily city work will need an oil change quicker than one that primarily is running down the road. The same is true for the CRD. Mine is primarily run out on the road, and 12K mile or more oil change intervals work as proven by oil analysis.

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Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.

I get your drift here Chris

Normally the oils in diffs, transmission and t-case are already expensive as he.... but if amsoil isn't much worse why not use it? I would be more easily presuaded to use amsoil for such things, yes.

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L.O.S.T forever!
Silver 2002 Skoda Fabia TDI, 235,000km
Former car: Jeep KJ 2003 CRD

DIESEL - saving millions of liters of petrol every day!

Excuse my terminology here as I'm sure its all wrong, but isn't the point of oil to suspend harmful elements and keep them from impacting moving parts? So it stands to reason that if you have more oil in a vehicle that you will have longer intervals between oil changes, after all you have the capacity to suspend far more in that oil. I don't think comparing vehicles with 12+ quart capacities to our CRD's is very appropriate, and I maintain that if you run Amsoil in our CRD's for 25k between oil changes you WILL kill the vehicle. Its not magic, its just oil.

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2006 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD

False, you could easily run a 25,000 mile interval in your CRD by using the Amsoil Series 3000 HDD 5W30 engine oil. It’s not called magical, it’s called technology. With a by-pass, you might be able to take your CRD to over 50,000 miles without any problems and an oil analysis to prove it.

http://www.amsoil.com/testimonials/409000.aspx

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2015 Ram Ecodiesel/Big Horn/4x4/Quad Cab
2016 Arctic Fox 22G/Onboard 2500 LP Cummins Onan Generator/160 Watt Solar Panel

I took the road less traveled. Now I'm LOST.