sorry boy, I did not catch your tire size... Also I did not look at your cv boot, I looked at the end of the shaft, and it could be the pic, but it looked like it was coming out of the hub level unlike EDDO's that is pointing down worse than yours. I looked and did some more line work, the bottom of the large part of the shaft where the boot attaches: Mine is level with the top of the clevis mount on the lower arm, and you guy's are level with about the center of the clevis bolt.

I have tried, but am out of ideas, unless you both got mistagged springs or as EDDO suggested their rate changed too...

Best thing I guess would be to not drive it unless you had to, and call Quinn, he is a great guy. I would not tear it out yet, because Quinn may want you to send pics of certain things to try to figure this out.

Ted

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I'm baaaaccckkk...
LOST Member 10
If you can read this you don't need glasses, go Wheel your Jeep!

Nice thing is there's an easy fix...just remove the spacer.

I'm really thinking we got some mis-tagged springs, OME changed their spring set-up recently, or some out of spec springs. Thinking it is one of the later two, because OME has no springs that are suppose to give the KJ 2.5-3" of lift.

Anyways I had to remove mine. Actually wasn't that hard. I compute kind of far and unfortunally I don't have two vehicles. Still going to give Quinn a call because maybe something is up and so other people don't get stuck in the same position.

I think Joel is right. All I really need to do is remove the poly-spacer. However, I'm not sure how that could change the spring pre-load with the new Daystar top-plate. Also, I was playing around and trying to flex the front end. I really couldn't stuff one of the front tires. Basically got it to where the CV shaft was level (stock position) and that was about as far as it would stuff. The coils where far from binding up in that position so I though it should have gone futher up. I'm sure with the spacer removed it would go up quite a bit further though.

Anyone got any recommendations to find a place to compress the springs? I'll try give the wright-patt auto hobby shop a call and see if that can do it. Last time I got mine compressed at Kirtland's autohobby shop and it was only $25, compared to all the other places that want $80 just to do it.

Ed

If we remove the poly spacer, will we need a bottom plate for the spring? Could the stock bottom plate be used?

Deboy

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2003 Liberty Sport V6 Automatic
Frankenlift, Rubi's, & MTR's
Flowmaster 50 Series
K&N Drop-in
Lightforce 170's

You will need a new rubber spring isolater. Look at the top. The rubber piece that is inbetween the spring and the top plate. You will need another set of those. Maybe Quinn would be will to exchange the poly-spacer for another set of spring isolaters.

Would the stock bottom spring isolator work, or is it different for the rancho struts?

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2003 Liberty Sport V6 Automatic
Frankenlift, Rubi's, & MTR's
Flowmaster 50 Series
K&N Drop-in
Lightforce 170's

Yes the stock bottom spring isolater of your old set up would work just fine.

Here is what you need

Spring Isolater link

I just got my Frankenlift last week it is still sitting on the dining room floor. I am planning to install it on th 21st. Same set up, OME 927 in the front. I am going to take some measurement to compare my factory setup and the Frankenlift.

I just ordered my factory upper spring isolators from the dealer, now I just need a spring compressor so that I can get the strut assemblies apart and back together before the weekend.

Thanks to everyone who has posted!

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'02 Liberty Limited - Patriot Blue

Quinn from All-J's returned my call this afternoon. He looked at my pictures and listened to my concerns. Quinn thinks that I am good-to-go. He advised that I do the "rough" alignment (turn the tie-rods out one turn), which I just completed, and to drive it (wheel it, flex it, & brake hard to work the front end). Quinn said that he would back his product if I run into problems. The lift rides well and does not make a noise. So, I am taking Quinn's advice. In fact my wife drove it to town and did a little "corn field" driving on her way (the kids loved it).

Anyway, I am hoping that I was just being paranoid, and now I plan to "drive it, like I stole it"!

Quinn - Thank you for all of the advise and patience while working with me on the phone (he had to give me a little pep talk to get the lower clevis bolt installed).

The Liberty looks great. I had seen numerous pictures of lifted Liberty's. But I had never actually seen a lifted Liberty, until mine. If a picture is supposed to be worth a thousand words, than seeing it in person is worth a million.

Eddo - Have you given Quinn a call? If no, call him up, see what advise he has for you. Quinn did mention that just removing the daystar spacer was not a good idea, as that would change the function of the strut assembly.

One last comment - our lifts were on back-order due to the daystar components, not the front OME coil spings. So, Quinn does not believe that there are any issues with our springs.

Later,
Deboy

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2003 Liberty Sport V6 Automatic
Frankenlift, Rubi's, & MTR's
Flowmaster 50 Series
K&N Drop-in
Lightforce 170's

Yup I gave Quinn a call this afternoon. Really helpful. Basically said the same things. Just needs to break in and to drive it HARD. He said he takes KJs from the shop that are freshly frankenlift and hits a series of drainage ditches at about 45mphs to get them to start settling. Also mentioned you could go to a parking lot and do some nose dive braking for a while to help them set.

I'm naturally a little skeptical since it is so high, but he has alot of experience with the KJ and the Frankenlift so I will give it a try. He did mention that he will also stand behind his products and will do whatever it takes to see that everything works out.

Hey Ted so your's was pretty much way up there like Deboy's and mine before you went wheeling? So once you really beat on it, it started to come down to where it is at in your picture?

Also I think his knuckle looks more perpendicular because of the camera angle. Look at his chin spoiler that is slanted so it is probably just the way the camera was held for that picture.

I got a little jumpy reading the posts. I talked to Quinn yesterday too. He mentioned that the strut assemblies are designed to work together and it is a bad idea to change the spring isolators because they are designed to work with the top plate. I am going to follow Quinn's advice and make sure to break it in hard.

Thanks Quinn

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'02 Liberty Limited - Patriot Blue

Man Quinn got bombared with phone calls yesterday about the Frankenlift. Yes, he said that taking out the spacers would affect the preload and didn't recommend it. Just give it some time and hard miles.

EDDO, Yes my lift was up quite a ways before wheeling, basically, my cv shafts looked like they were coming directly out of the top of the boot at the wheel end, and the bottom at the diff end... Looked real nasty!!! But yes, after some serious wheeling and playing, she is fine, she doesn't even creek or squeek any more, even with the extreme cold ice and snow this morning!! Now that was fun, sorry no pics

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I'm baaaaccckkk...
LOST Member 10
If you can read this you don't need glasses, go Wheel your Jeep!

Loopkey,

I am looking forward to the 21st (your targeted Frankenlift install date). Good luck with the bottom clevis bolt...it was a real b***h for me. Be sure to do the rough alignment (one turn out on the tie rods), as it made a noticeable improvement in the steering.

Let us know how it goes. Please post some measurements and some pics of your cv angles. I am curious if your's will look like Eddo's and mine.

Deboy

_________________
2003 Liberty Sport V6 Automatic
Frankenlift, Rubi's, & MTR's
Flowmaster 50 Series
K&N Drop-in
Lightforce 170's

I can hardly wait for the 21st. I've got a new set of BFG AT/KO's waiting to be installed. Over the last two days we had a foot of snow and I am running on bald Goodyear RS/A's...

I will keep you posted.

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'02 Liberty Limited - Patriot Blue

The Frankenlift was installed on the 21st along with new tires and I have put over 500 miles on it.

After the lift I took the measurements from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender. In the front it was 23" and in the rear it was 22". After 500 miles it has settled to 22.5" in the front and 21.5" in the rear. I am getting my alignment and speedometer recalibrated on Saturday. I will try and get some pictures too.

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'02 Liberty Limited - Patriot Blue

Yup, I really pounded mine good. I have only about 250 miles on it, but trust me they where darn hard. I bottomed the front out countless times. Anyways now I'm down to 22" in the front (center of wheel to bottom flare) or about 36" from ground to bottom of flare.

Just installed my Frankenlift yesterday. I've got the same issues. CV angles are scary. Based on previous posts I've been trying to cycle the suspension. I'm hitting every speed bump, pothole, drainage ditch, etc. Have around 50 miles on her now (post lift). Have vibrations up front too. Took the Libby in to have the wheels balanced prior to a the wheel alignment. Shop said the vibes are due to the CV angles. I'm gonna play it cool and roll with the punches. Let's see if she settles. I was on recall this 3-day weekend so I'll have to wait til next weekend to take her off road. I'd hate to have to invest in new axles in the very near future if this suspension fails to settle soon. I commute over 100 miles a day so I wouldn't give the axles much more than a month or two (under these conditions) before they go tits up.

I'd post pics but can't find my digital camera. Either way, the pics would look just like all the previous pics on this thread. It was resting on the hose clamped cushion/stop earlier and now there's around 3/4" gap. l'll keep you posted.

And for the record:

Ground to Fender measures: 37 1/4" (Front) & 38" (Rear)

Center of Wheel to Fender: 22 3/4" (Front) & 23 1/2" (Rear)

In the rear I kept my 2" TeraFlex spacers, removed the rear sway bar and installed a set of RE adjustable control arms. Currently installed are a set of 265/60R18s.

Why couldnt you all put a bunch of weight on the front over night? Park on a hill nose down and hang some weights or concrete blocks from the tow hooks or something, thats what i would do. I got some new rear ome springs and i parked with the rear down hill and with the weight of my speakers in the rear, they settled real nice like.

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LOST KJ'S
Where are you going???
Current Jeep: 2004 Jeep Liberty
-Atlantic Blue
-Air Ride Rear Suspension ; OME/Rustys Lift ; Powertrax Locker ; Moog Lower Ball-Joints ; 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolander A/T-S's on MOABS ; Flowmaster 50 SUV
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