New Fumoto Now Available

GilaMonster · **Posted:** Wed Feb 06, 2008 5:15 pm

Installed mine last weekend. Hope to never have to touch the threads on that oil pan ever again.
Note, it uses what I believe is a 7.5mm allen wrench. I had a 7 that was just a little loose and an 8 would not fit. You can also put a box wrench on it, but that will not allow you to torque it down to specs.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Mar 02, 2008 2:39 pm

I installed the Fumoto F-102 yesterday with 6,250 mile oil change and the threads fits perfect to the stock oil pan.

I'm still not going to take it to a oil change jockey no more even with the Fumoto because I believe that they can even screw up flipping down the lever. :evil:

JIMMY JEEP · **Posted:** Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:03 pm

just ordered mine, what are the torque specs? and does it come with a sump washer or do you use regular copper ones?.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:54 pm

JIMMY JEEP wrote:

just ordered mine, what are the torque specs? and does it come with a sump washer or do you use regular copper ones?.

I install it as it came out of the package and since I'm an old gear head, I tighten it until it felt right with a 3/4 inch open end wrench.. Maybe I can say RFT for short. :lol:

crd liberty · **Posted:** Sun Mar 02, 2008 5:18 pm

?
I have the older version with the adapter, but also ordered the F-102.
The F-102 does not have the shoulder on it as does the adapter I have
nor the original OEM plug.
Upon seeing this I kept my older adapter, fumoto drain in place and put
the new unit in the glove box for a spare.
I am not concerned about the length of it because I don't have full skid
plates anyhow.

Thanks
Steve

KJMedic · **Posted:** Sat Mar 08, 2008 7:28 pm

Quote:

Service Unavailable

This is what i get when I click on the link in your Sig.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:08 am

KJMedic wrote:

Quote:

Service Unavailable

This is what i get when I click on the link in your Sig.

I just ordered one by clicking on his sig's link. The only way I found it was to click order then drill down to crd. Maybe your firewall is helping you :lol:

What does the original crd valve fit without the adapter, or it's number :?:

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:35 am

NOTE for those wanting one with a nipple. You have to go to page two to find the F102N :lol:

crd liberty · **Posted:** Sun Mar 09, 2008 11:42 am

Joe Romas wrote:

KJMedic wrote:

Quote:

Service Unavailable

This is what i get when I click on the link in your Sig.

I just ordered one by clicking on his sig's link. The only way I found it was to click order then drill down to crd. Maybe your firewall is helping you :lol:

What does the original crd valve fit without the adapter, or it's number :?:

The original valve was F-108 and I believe he had the adapter made especially
for this to fit the CRD.

fastRob · **Posted:** Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:52 pm

Had the oil, lube and filter done, the Fumoto 102N w/ tube end installed with the safety clip.
My son crawled in the mud to put the clip on, bless him.
The skid plate was the wrong one, Dag Nabit!
Back to the dealer Monday.

Mud season around here is very bad, must get that on like yesterday!

R

calcrd · **Posted:** Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:32 am

Has anyone measured how much the threads of the Fumoto valve protrude inside the oil pan ? Ideally the valve opening would be flush with the bottom of the oil pan for all the oil to drain.

LanduytG · **Joined:** Sun Dec 11, 2005 6:59 am **Posts:** 188

The valve does stick up into the pan a bit. But you get almost all the oil out so its not really a concern IMHO. Even if you only get 95% out that only leaves 8oz in the pan.

Greg

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Sat Mar 22, 2008 11:01 pm

ok... i got a used fumoto valve from dgiest today in the mail....
and i know some people were saying that they hang kinda low,
not incredibly low though... so i altered it...

i got the valve that has the adapter on it, the newer ones are not
as big i guess...
first i cut the adapter down, it threads on 2 revolutions....
then i cut the threads on the valve down to match, and the
nipple in about half... over all i got about 1/2 inch off the height.

JIMMY JEEP · **Posted:** Sun Mar 23, 2008 1:31 pm

So before i drop my oil a couple of questions, new valve has arrived the f102 without the adapter, do i definatley use the fibre washer that comes with it or use a regular copper washer? and does anyone know the torque setting to install it safely?thanks.

dgeist · **Posted:** Sun Mar 23, 2008 8:11 pm

JIMMY JEEP wrote:

So before i drop my oil a couple of questions, new valve has arrived the f102 without the adapter, do i definatley use the fibre washer that comes with it or use a regular copper washer? and does anyone know the torque setting to install it safely?thanks.

I used a copper washer (I use new ones every time) but when I had the older system I used the fibre washer between the adapter and the valve. I never had any leaks on either so your gut is your guide. I set the ole' torque wrench to 20 ft/lbs and then gave it a little nudge farther (probably 22/23) since it just didn't "feel" quite right at 20. Again, no leaks or threads stripped after 5 changes, so I must be doing something right.

Oh, and I verifed the depth on the adapter-less model against the stock hex plug and the thread depth is identical, so there's an sound reason to use the copper gasket (slightly thicker than fibre and has the exact same penetration into the pan as stock). I wouldn't think that cutting it down to 2 threads would do anything other than put a lot of strain on those two threads. After all, it's the threads that hold things tight and if you change the surface area, your nominal torque needed is altered as well.

P.S. if you're super paranoid about exposure, the nipple on the -n models DOES screw off. I accidentally unscrewed the wrong part when I was removing my original. You can keep that detached while it's closed, I'd assume, and reduce under-pan exposure.

Dan

LanduytG · **Joined:** Sun Dec 11, 2005 6:59 am **Posts:** 188

dgeist wrote:

JIMMY JEEP wrote:

So before i drop my oil a couple of questions, new valve has arrived the f102 without the adapter, do i definatley use the fibre washer that comes with it or use a regular copper washer? and does anyone know the torque setting to install it safely?thanks.

I used a copper washer (I use new ones every time) but when I had the older system I used the fibre washer between the adapter and the valve. I never had any leaks on either so your gut is your guide. I set the ole' torque wrench to 20 ft/lbs and then gave it a little nudge farther (probably 22/23) since it just didn't "feel" quite right at 20. Again, no leaks or threads stripped after 5 changes, so I must be doing something right.

Oh, and I verifed the depth on the adapter-less model against the stock hex plug and the thread depth is identical, so there's an sound reason to use the copper gasket (slightly thicker than fibre and has the exact same penetration into the pan as stock). I wouldn't think that cutting it down to 2 threads would do anything other than put a lot of strain on those two threads. After all, it's the threads that hold things tight and if you change the surface area, your nominal torque needed is altered as well.

P.S. if you're super paranoid about exposure, the nipple on the -n models DOES screw off. I accidentally unscrewed the wrong part when I was removing my original. You can keep that detached while it's closed, I'd assume, and reduce under-pan exposure.

Dan

Yes the nipple will screw off but the guts can now fall out. I very highly recommend you put it back on. Also it will leak oil.

Greg

dgeist · **Posted:** Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:13 pm

LanduytG wrote:

dgeist wrote:

P.S. if you're super paranoid about exposure, the nipple on the -n models DOES screw off. I accidentally unscrewed the wrong part when I was removing my original. You can keep that detached while it's closed, I'd assume, and reduce under-pan exposure.

Dan

Yes the nipple will screw off but the guts can now fall out. I very highly recommend you put it back on. Also it will leak oil.

Greg

Ahh, I guess I'm glad I'm not super-paranoid. After I realized the wrong part was turning, I immediately tightened it back on :wink:

Also, Trevor, nice touch updating the picture AFTER you post the link...

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:47 am

dgeist wrote:

Also, Trevor, nice touch updating the picture AFTER you post the link...

i don't know what you are talking about :roll:

the first pics when i looked at them were blurry so i took more....
dunno if it was necessary to do all the cutting but for $5 i think it was worth it..
and it filled up a bit of the day.

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