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 Post subject: F37 Torque Converter
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:57 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 2:54 am
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Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
I know its a POS, but how long do they last and are there any symptoms before they blow? Thx

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 12:01 pm 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta
Good question, I would like to know the same thing. I tow a travel trailer all over h*ll's half acre and mine seems to be ok. I just want to know how long I have until I need the Suncoast.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 12:42 pm 
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Location: Columbus, Ohio. USA
Since F37 moved the shift points up out of the max torque curve of the CRD they should last. I could be wrong but I don't recall of reading on here where anyone with the later firmware, eather from the factory or updated, has had a failure. But there were some botched torque converter replacements that should not be considered. However several have mentioned "slipping" with tuning boxes :o I think Chrysler has determined the exact torque and rpm range that the torque converters fail and avoided those conditions with new software :lol: Of course the low end torque that diesel engines are noted for is no longer used to it's advantage :cry: Originally on the unneutered 05 models they were failing at around 8k miles as I recall.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 1:27 pm 
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Location: Texas
The DCJ t\c has a cast plastic stator amongst the steel components - the stator, used for torque-multiplication, mainly comes into play at standing start take-off, but functions during any low speed in 1st and 2nd gear and Reverse - as vehicle speed increases and turbine\input shaft rpm equalizes with crankshaft speed, the stator one-way sprag free-wheels and no further torque multiplication is produced - as plastic thermal expansion is nowhere near that of steel, there can be some problem with failure due to that design, where the plastic separates from the steel one-way sprag-clutch - also, depending on driver technique, plastic blade deflection due to increased torque loading can deform the plastic-to-steel sprag interface, with resultant separation, as above - also, the fins can snap\break, putting large chunks of stuff in the steel t\c fins, resulting in reduced torque multiplication, out of balance operation, and small stuff circulating thru the t\c bearings with the fluid - the dual filters in the trans may or may not trap the particles - usually effects total transmission rebuild and system flush

First symptom of stator\sprag separation is no power at take-off, but normal power after 2nd or third gear, depending on drivetrain loading, as in towing - the stator is always spinning on the outer sprag ring, effecting no torque multiplication
- can also result in rattling at idle and low rpm, as stator contacts drive and turbine fins, resulting in eventual stator disintegration\crumbling = total transmission overhaul, system flush

First symptom of broken\shattered stator fins is rattling at idle and low speeds, when turbine blade speed is lower than drive blade speed, and slightly to way reduced take-off power, depending on how many stator fins are gone, with resulting stator disintegration\crumbling = total trans rebuild, system flush

Either way, you'll soon be dead in the water, usually far from home and service availability, scenario being governed under rules of Murhpy's law

Now - factory defect will gonna fail, no matter what - jackrabbit starts, or any high-torque loading at low rpm enhances factory defect - rock-crawling, mud-splashing - stuck with power application during quick low-reverse shifting to get unstuck - jerking trailer - etc

Those scenarios also cause failure outside of factory defect, as the plastic stator is not suited for high-torque loading - normal stators are cast or machined from aluminum - really high-power apps get steel - barring factory defect, normal loading, including towing, may have no degrading effect on the plastic, tho I suspect long-term heat ain't very good fer it.

At any rate, some owners may have no problems at all during their personal involvement in the projected life of the vehicle - it's a total 'nother story indeed, however, for us manly men, with our manly proclivities (and overdeveloped right leg and foot!) - Suncoast has an answer, for us

Last two pics may be of some significant relevance, here
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 007#255007

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Last edited by gmctd on Mon Mar 17, 2008 2:20 pm, edited 6 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:27 pm
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
I've got just under 45,000 miles on the original TC. I just put a box on the Jeep and haven't experienced any slippage. The only thing I've towed is a 6x12 Uhaul from ND to AZ. The CRD pulled it without any problems. My CRD was F37'd from the factory.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 2:52 pm
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Location: Nottinghamshire, UK.
My TC started slipping with a slight judder from 8000miles and by the service at 12000 it wasn't locking up and shuddering badly.

F37 carried out and 4000 miles later it's still OK although it feels totaly different to drive.

Cheers
Lee

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