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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 3:10 pm 
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I have found that my mileage goes down above 45mph with the OD locked out. It purrs along nicely until I start approaching 50 and the rpm's ramp up quickly. I think as a concept it works. Each driver will probably have to do a little fine tuning with any of the suggestions in this thread to find what works for them and to what degree. If we were all driving completely stock vehicles, what works for one should work for all. But with the varying degree of mods on a lot of vehicles results may vary. As for me, I am trying everything and evaluating each to see if they make sense for my driving style, vehicle, terrain, etc. I do a fair amount of city driving in traffic at or under 45 mph so the OD lockout works for me (I am also running a late build '06 with stock TC). The neutral idle trick has made a bigger difference than I thought it would. No hard data yet (only 2 tanks into the experiment so far), but employing all fuel saving techniques and buying quality fuel has made the needle move a little slower.

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CRD Frankenlift II, Rock Lizard Rear Bumper, Mann Provent, GDE FT-ECO Tune, "Euro Torque Converter, Transgo 545RFE-H2 Shift Kit, 245/75 MT/R's on Moabs, Full Mopar Skids, Front Tow Hooks, CAT 2 Fuel filter and bleeder valve mod, Fumoto valve, Wahlbro Lift Pump, Custom 2 1/2" Exhaust


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 3:17 pm 
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My understanding of the DieselKleen products is they are specific to the type of fuel being used. White bottle for winter, silver bottle for summer. IIRC, they are both "power service" manufacturer, aren't they?

If the jump is that severe though, I guess I need to start using that stuff.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 3:26 pm 
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Location: Palm City, FL
The majority of CRD driving has been by my wife commuting 25-45 mph semi-rural and errands around town with some highway.
The first two fillups after purchase both yielded 23.X mpg hand calculated with MAP clean, EHM, ORM done first part of first tank and Magnaflow end of second tank.
During the past 18.4 gallon tank changes were new fuel manager head & filter and V6 airbox/new filter. This tank hand calculated at 29.46 mpg. Lift pump added at fillup.

During all tanks I have been doing some WOT runs and at first lots of smoke and now it has cleared up. Additives are 2 stroke oil and powerservice white bottle. I use white bottle because silver doesn't claim water dispersion on the label.

build date 6/05

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 3:32 pm 
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At a true speed of 61mpg...GPS 59.7 I am only turning 1750-1775 rpms. I have to get up to 64mpg indicated to get final overdrive first, then back it down and set cruise control. I can get 26-29 at this setting in the winter. I do have a lift and 30" tires...AirTabs...Partial Grill Block...SEGR...3" Open Exhaust. I want to really see about mpg this summer.

***The Lambretta Scooter 50cc is now getting over 124+mpg and is fun to drive. The Combo of the both gives me City MPG of ~34mpg.***

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2006 CRD Sport

Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 3:35 pm 
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A lift pump adds that much benefit in mpg? :shock:

I've got a Stanadyne filter system that I've been sitting on (5 micron) and haven't installed, but I think the lift pump will be my first priority if it adds 3mpg like that!

Tell me about this, what pump, how'd you wire it in, and how much was it? How hard was it to install?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 3:40 pm 
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geordi wrote:
A lift pump adds that much benefit in mpg? :shock:

I've got a Stanadyne filter system that I've been sitting on (5 micron) and haven't installed, but I think the lift pump will be my first priority if it adds 3mpg like that!

Tell me about this, what pump, how'd you wire it in, and how much was it? How hard was it to install?


If you are asking me...

I added the lift pump at the end of the 18.4 gal tank so no numbers on that yet. Just added it Thurs nite and gauge is still above Full. Install was easy, a few hours, and it's the pump in gmctd's 10pm where's your pump? thread.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 5:40 pm 
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It helped mine but not 3 mpg. What is going on is the engine with the proper amount of fuel runs correctly :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 6:11 pm 
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I filled the tank up this morning, full. Did my deliveries for the flower shop. put about 54 miles on it, and it overflowed at 2.890 gallons... so by my math... we likely are hitting 20mpg with the orm .... gotta clean that MAP out. Now, of course I drove like suggested in this thread all day too.... the significant other... not so much.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:14 pm 
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OK I went from one extreme to the other, but I'll bring up tires.

Winter: Goodyear Wrangler MT/R 225/75R16 - 50 psi front / 40 psi rear.

(New) Summer: Michelin XPS Rib 225/75R16 - 65 psi all around.

An immediate 2 mpg improvement on the EVIC. Waiting for a few full tank averages.

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:42 pm 
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danoid wrote:
(New) Summer: Michelin XPS Rib 225/75R16 - 65 psi all around.


Good golly, load range E?? It looks like a semi tire. :)

- Chris

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Suncoast TC, Transgo shift kit, Inmotion, ORM, EHM, Magnaflow SS exhaust, Fumoto valve, EVIC added, Hensley TruControl brake controller, Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D in spring/summer/fall, FIA winter front and Blizzaks in winter


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 Post subject: Finally over 30mpg!
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:33 pm 
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Finished my first trip last week averaging over 30mpg last week. The weird thing is that I wasn't even trying. I changed all of my fluids front to rear (except the tranny) literally hours before I left. I had filled the fuel tank the night before. So the fluids had zero miles on them before I left. I drove 855 miles averaging about 75mph. About 40 of those miles were city but the rest were wide open highway miles. I averaged 30.8mpg for the entire trip. The fluids were all synthetic, but then I always run synthetic so I don't understand were the mileage gain came from. That's a full 2mpg better than I have ever managed on a road trip. I'll take the gain gladly, but I don't understand it :shock:

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'06 Stone White, CRD Limited
CRD Frankenlift II, Rock Lizard Rear Bumper, Mann Provent, GDE FT-ECO Tune, "Euro Torque Converter, Transgo 545RFE-H2 Shift Kit, 245/75 MT/R's on Moabs, Full Mopar Skids, Front Tow Hooks, CAT 2 Fuel filter and bleeder valve mod, Fumoto valve, Wahlbro Lift Pump, Custom 2 1/2" Exhaust


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 Post subject: Re: Finally over 30mpg!
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:33 pm 
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mrkake wrote:
Finished my first trip last week averaging over 30mpg last week. The weird thing is that I wasn't even trying. I changed all of my fluids front to rear (except the tranny) literally hours before I left. I had filled the fuel tank the night before. So the fluids had zero miles on them before I left. I drove 855 miles averaging about 75mph. About 40 of those miles were city but the rest were wide open highway miles. I averaged 30.8mpg for the entire trip. The fluids were all synthetic, but then I always run synthetic so I don't understand were the mileage gain came from. That's a full 2mpg better than I have ever managed on a road trip. I'll take the gain gladly, but I don't understand it :shock:


I can think of two possible reasons besides the synthetic fluid in the differntials. First you got a fresh tank of non winterized fuel :lol: Secondly it's been my experience that a diesel takes a long while to brake in and does not get it's best average till then. On my past VW diesels I found they brake in or loosen up at around twenty thousand miles and the MPG's start climbing :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 11:05 am 
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First off a thanks to the group for all the nice info. My blower motor resistor block went out and the info was here..http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=8284

As my verify I connected the part but left it hanging where the glove box used to be. Drove for 20 minutes and the thing was hot enough to burn eggs!

If heat is energy then wasted heat is wasted fuel. So here's the call to all those smart electrical guys out there! Is there another way to do this?

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:36 pm 
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Awesome thread! I was hoping someone would start this.
I'm going to print these out and start tinkering right away.

A thought concerning weight: The full sized spare tire is huge and heavy. Does anyone know of a dinky Tonka toy spare that might work instead? Perhaps from a junk yard?

Obviously, I would never use one off road but for my daily commute (60 mi/day nasty traffic) I am never further than a couple of miles from a tire or repair shop so I really don't a full sized spare is required. My wife said she liked the idea as long as hers had a Jeep cover cover on it. 8)
I also removed my tire chains today (real chains) which probably weigh 30 lbs as well as some of the off road gear I usually have in the back. I am thinking of putting together an off road tray that is ready to go so that all I have to is slip the tray into the back before I leave.
I have been slowly but surely doing various mods suggested in this forum to my CRD while leaving my wife's bone stock as a comparison. One thing that might throw things off a bit is that I have aggressive snow tires while she has highway tires. Still, thus far I get a consistent 3 mpg better.

My hypermiling experiment: I read an interesting article on hypermiling the other day. There are even hypermiling derbies and contests with some people in Priuses obtaining over 90 mpg. A big part of the article consisted of disclaimers so people would not actually try some of the more dangerous activities such as turning the engine on and off in cars that require it for brakes and steering. Of course, I tried them anyway. I did everything I possibly could to keep the engine off and the car moving. I turned everything off, rolled up the windows. Every time I shut off the engine I immediately turned the key back on so the steering didn't lock and the mileage meter still calculated (I loved seeing it peg at 99 mpg down the hill from my house). At first it took a lot of getting used to - especially when I nearly ran into the ditch on a sharp corner after starting the engine back on & having the power steering suddenly awaken. But after an hour or so I got into the groove. I pulled all sorts of sh*t that was both dangerous and illegal to keep the car off and rolling: Running stop signs, drafting, running the right tires on the painted line, over inflated tires, turning off engine and coasting every single time I possibly could. Result: I was able to milk 42 mpg out of it. I checked and rechecked and hand calculated. Once I drove like "normal" it quickly came back down to it's usual 24 mpg mixed city/hwy. I don't recommend doing what I did (besides the danger I probably took a year off my starter life) however, after I thought about it a bit it occurred to me that a fair portion of the non-traffic-violation activities I was doing could have been designed into the car in a pseudo-hybrid model of this vehicle.

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* 245/70/16 Nokian Vatiiva
* Magnaflow
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* Custom CCV condensor
* Custom modified thermostat housing w/bleeder valve

2006 CRD Limited (wife's)
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 11:31 pm 
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Questions:

* How difficult is it to remove the roof rack? I've never used it.
* How much did you pay for your Air Tabs?

* Also, what are people referring to in this thread with regards to "blocking the grill?" I started a thread last night asking about blocking the radiator - which is, as I had imagined, a very bad idea except as a way to help keep operating temps in very cold weather.

I just came up with a fantastic way to increase my mileage. My wife doesn't care for it but my son doesn't seem to mind.

Image[/img]

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2005 CRD Limited:
* 245/70/16 Nokian Vatiiva
* Magnaflow
* Kennedy Diesel lift pump
* Custom CCV condensor
* Custom modified thermostat housing w/bleeder valve

2006 CRD Limited (wife's)
* Bone stock


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 5:43 am 
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KeighJeigh wrote:
turning the engine on and off


Turning the engine off and coasting disables the tranmission pump (it uses engine rpm). Coasting with no transmission pump means no lubrication. You will fry your clutches or gears, it's just a matter of time.

It's not a hybrid (I have no influence at work obviously) it's better. It's a diesel.

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 6:50 am 
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KeighJeigh wrote:
Questions:

* How difficult is it to remove the roof rack? I've never used it.
* How much did you pay for your Air Tabs?

* Also, what are people referring to in this thread with regards to "blocking the grill?" I started a thread last night asking about blocking the radiator - which is, as I had imagined, a very bad idea except as a way to help keep operating temps in very cold weather.

I just came up with a fantastic way to increase my mileage. My wife doesn't care for it but my son doesn't seem to mind.

Image[/img]


I think the rood rack could be left in place...but...take some flat material and fill in the space between the rack and roof...just that 2" or so. It would creat a kind of tunnel for the sir to follow until it reaches the end of the roof.

The AirTabs were cheap...about $2.50 each.

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2006 CRD Sport

Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 12:53 pm 
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An air dam/spoiler can help reduce the wind drag from the roof rack on most cars (hard to say with the CRD how much of a difference this will actually make). I have Thule crossbars on mine, and a Thule air dam in front of them.

Image

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited
Mopar engine, transmission, transfer case skids
245/70/16 Michelin Latitude X-Ice (winter)
235/75/16 Firestone Destination ATs (summer)
Thule roof rack, cargo box
V6 airbox mod
Flowmaster 50 2.5 inch muffler
Edge EZ module (set for fuel economy)
SEGR
TDIWagonGuy CCV filter
B99 (summer), B20 (winter)


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