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 Post subject: Where to start with Bio-Diesel?
PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 10:32 pm 
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Location: Tampa, FL
Hi there all,

I want to start experimenting with Bio-D in my CRD. There is a fill station 7 miles from my house that carries B20 and up. From what I'm reading it seems that certain CRD's act different with different blends and amounts. eg: rough running or idling Mine is a 2006 that is bone stock.

What would be a good place to start and how much? 1/4 tank, 1/2 tank? What blend?

Many thanks,


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 11:14 pm 
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where have you read that CRDs have trouble with BD? There are a number of us here on the forum who use all blends up to B100 and I can't recall reading about any unusual problems with the fuel.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:14 am 
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The only thing I've found is the fuel filter needs bleeding more often with biodiesel. But the CRD fuel system is inadequate for any fuel -- it needs a lift pump and a better heater, both of which will solve the air in fuel issue

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 Post subject: X2 on the fuel system
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 8:58 am 
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I also tend to get slightly more air in the fuel head when I run bio or blends (not scientific, just anecdotal). I would surmise that it's because it's easier for gas to dissolve in the organic. Other than that, I've noticed that my peak economy is with B20, my smoothest running is with B100. If you decide to start, it might be a good idea to pick up a new fuel filter in case the bio knocks off some CRuD inside your fuel lines and clogs it. Other than that, familiarize yourself with the filter head bleeding procedure in case you need it and burn some bio.

Dan

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 9:09 am 
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We have an "06 that we bought new. It's been on B100 since day one. No problems other than the aforementioned air-in-filterhead that comes with any fuel run in the stock configuration. It now has a lift pump and a Racor 245 filterhead. Shoulda done that first thing.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 9:15 am 
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I tend to run B50 virgin soy-based with good results--no rough anything. The only time I have a slower start is running B75 or higher in colder temps (<45F). I live in a desert and don't have to worry too much about the relatively warm gel point of 40F of B100.

I am interested in GTL diesel which I'm hoping to get through my BioD supplier.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 9:45 am 
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Out 42,000 mile CRD just finished its first tank of B100... same economy as the first tank (which was regular diesel fuel). Oddly, we didn't have air in fuel issues this last tank, mostly thanks to the filter housing being replaced :)

I feel rather confident in saying the only problem is the consistent smell of french fries. It makes one hungry.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 11:21 am 
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nursecosmo - I've read it on a few other use groups. People were complaining about some 55mph shutter. They couldn't confirm or deny though that it was due to a "trans flash" or the Bio-D though. I'm interested in your Veggi-blend. Are you mixing directly with diesel and/or bio-d? If so, how much. I'm here in Florida and plan on doing a full veggie conversion with an auxiliary tank (once I learn more) and would love any information.

Can someone explain in simple terms the process for replacing the fuel filter?

As for the heater and lift pump issue. I've seen in a couple different peoples sigs "Cummins lift pump" or something else. Is it recomended to replace the lift pump when running Bio or Vegi or required for optimum performance? What's the Racor?

As for Bio-D I found a place locally who has 55gal drums of B99 for $220 + tax... At that price its more that diesel. Are other people experiencing this?

Thanks for all the answers for a newbie!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:03 pm 
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We are at 26k on a '06 with at least b20 all winter and b50 all summer. Less then a handfull of tanks of dino....
It idles smoother and quieter on bio! Economy is the same. I have only had to prime the pump 2 times, which seems less then most either bio or dino....
Do get a filter though. Having switched to bio in a few rigs that had years of dino in them, it WILL clean all the gunk out of your fuel system!

Run it and never look back!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:30 pm 
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aslostasyou wrote:
nursecosmo - I've read it on a few other use groups. People were complaining about some 55mph shutter. They couldn't confirm or deny though that it was due to a "trans flash" or the Bio-D though. I'm interested in your Veggi-blend. Are you mixing directly with diesel and/or bio-d? If so, how much. I'm here in Florida and plan on doing a full veggie conversion with an auxiliary tank (once I learn more) and would love any information.

Can someone explain in simple terms the process for replacing the fuel filter?

As for the heater and lift pump issue. I've seen in a couple different peoples sigs "Cummins lift pump" or something else. Is it recomended to replace the lift pump when running Bio or Vegi or required for optimum performance? What's the Racor?

As for Bio-D I found a place locally who has 55gal drums of B99 for $220 + tax... At that price its more that diesel. Are other people experiencing this?

Thanks for all the answers for a newbie!


The shudder that you have read about is not from BD but rather the general consensus is that it is from air in the filter head and it does it with all types of fuel not just BD. Biodiesel is slightly thicker however and will cause more air to precipitate out of solution in the high restriction fuel filter. The computer reflash that you mention raised the shift points of the transmission and was done by DCX to try to eliminate the 55mph shudder. Those who have installed lift pumps report that the air in the filter head and as a result the funky shudder is eliminated. There several options for a lift pump; an inline pump on the frame rail as the fuel line leaves the fuel tank or an in-tank fuel pump from a dodge cummins pickup. The advantage of the inline style is ease of installation and price (~60$) but they are detectable at the dealer and may void the fuel system warranty. The in-tank version is the cleanest looking and also the most costly but no one will ever know that its there.
As to mixing veggy, I mix with both BD and DinoD. I have not used it since the weather was hot because I'm worried about cylinder wall coking during cold starts. I have no heat for veg so I mixed it at 30% for in town driving and up to 75% for highway trips. The problem with high percentages is that it tends to smoke at idle presumably because of viscosity.
the easiest way to change the fuel filter is to remove the two nuts holding the filter head onto the firewall and then you can lift the filter up high enough to reach the fuel drain to empty the fuel out before unscrewing the filter. Just screw a new one on then bleed the air out with the bleed nut on the top right hand side of the filter head and away you go.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:44 pm 
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aslostasyou wrote:
People were complaining about some 55mph shutter. They couldn't confirm or deny though that it was due to a "trans flash" or the Bio-D though.


This is caused by air in the fuel, any fuel. A Cummins intank lift pump as used in the Dodge/Cummins should be your first addition :D

aslostasyou wrote:
Can someone explain in simple terms the process for replacing the fuel filter?


Disconnect the WIF (water in filter) sensor in the bottom of the filter. Screw the filter off. Put WIF sensor on new filter. Screw it back on. Removing the 2 bolts that hold the filter mount will give you better access. You'll need bleed the filter.


aslostasyou wrote:
As for the heater and lift pump issue. I've seen in a couple different peoples sigs "Cummins lift pump" or something else. Is it recomended to replace the lift pump when running Bio or Vegi or required for optimum performance? What's the Racor?


We don't have a lift pump :cry: That's causing air to get sucked in to the fuel system. And it accumiliates in the filter. That allows the fuel filter to overheat and melt :roll: Racor is a better filter head. A lift pump, any lift pump will improve the CRD's preformance by elimination the air build up. Since BIO is thicker it might worsen the air problem without a pump


aslostasyou wrote:
As for Bio-D I found a place locally who has 55gal drums of B99 for $220 + tax... At that price its more that diesel. Are other people experiencing this?

Thanks for all the answers for a newbie!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 1:13 pm 
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aslostasyou wrote:
As for Bio-D I found a place locally who has 55gal drums of B99 for $220 + tax... At that price its more that diesel. Are other people experiencing this?


That seems a bit high- Sol Atlantic Biodiesel north of Miami usually keeps their prices about $.02 less than D2 and last time I was there they said most of their fuel came from Tampa. Since you are in Tampa there's got to be lower prices somewhere. Maybe go the the Sol Atlantic website, get their number and call them for recommendations.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 5:26 pm 
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AZ CRD wrote:
I am interested in GTL diesel which I'm hoping to get through my BioD supplier.


Who and where are you getting BD in Scottsdale/Phx?

Gary


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 9:05 pm 
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PhoenixCRD wrote:
AZ CRD wrote:
I am interested in GTL diesel which I'm hoping to get through my BioD supplier.


Who and where are you getting BD in Scottsdale/Phx?

Gary
Western States Petroleum down off 16th Ave and Jefferson. http://www.westernstatespetroleum.com/

They seem like good folks and the fuel has never caused any problems.

Jeff

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Cooper Discoverer ATP LT245/75, Rola roof basket, JCR S3 sliders
OME lift+JBA UCA's, custom front hitch receiver, Mile Marker winch
All J Products rear cargo shelf
Sips biodiesel as if it were 12 y/o Scotch


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:29 am 
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I would start with a tank of B20. I have used B5-B20 in my CRD and have had no fuel related problems in the vehicle's 33K miles.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:22 pm 
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AZ CRD wrote:
PhoenixCRD wrote:
AZ CRD wrote:
I am interested in GTL diesel which I'm hoping to get through my BioD supplier.


Who and where are you getting BD in Scottsdale/Phx?

Gary
Western States Petroleum down off 16th Ave and Jefferson. http://www.westernstatespetroleum.com/

They seem like good folks and the fuel has never caused any problems.

Jeff


Thanks. That was the only place I knew of but thought there might be another in Scottsdale that I hadn't heard about.

Gary


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 10:03 am 
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?. To make a long story short, what is the carmel colored gunk in the bottom of my barrel of biodiesel that I bought a 1 1/2 years ago? Pulled the pump out of the now empty drum and found that crud. Thanks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 10:48 am 
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hatchetman wrote:
?. To make a long story short, what is the carmel colored gunk in the bottom of my barrel of biodiesel that I bought a 1 1/2 years ago? Pulled the pump out of the now empty drum and found that crud. Thanks.
I think I'd like to hear more of the story....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 11:55 am 
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i would start with B50 then go up to B90,

I have been on B100 for well over 50K now and had now probs as of yet.

the only mod i have as far as the fuel goes is the CAT 2 filter, which i have replaced twice. (in 50K miles)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:05 pm 
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hatchetman wrote:
?. To make a long story short, what is the carmel colored gunk in the bottom of my barrel of biodiesel that I bought a 1 1/2 years ago? Pulled the pump out of the now empty drum and found that crud. Thanks.

It took a year and a half to empty the barrel? Most likely its glycerine that has dropped out of the bio-d. Does it look like syrup and have that consistency? Was it commercial bio-d or home brew?

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