I bought a 2005 Liberty CRD Sport in October, used with 22k miles. It had a small leak around the drain plug when we got it, so we took it back, and they said they replaced the washer. Well, I went to do an oil change this morning, I was going to replace the plug with a Fumoto valve, but couldn't budge the old plug. If it's in there that tight, did they damage the threads in the oil pan, or should I go ahead and get a cheater to loosen the old plug and replace with the Fumoto? If they screwed it up, I don't want them to claim I damaged it, and I will be out the repair cost.

They are supposed to be on "tight" enough to keep the oil inside

If you feel it is too tight for your liking take it back to the dealer and ask them to do the engine oil change because you have heard it is a problem with over-tightening the oil pan plug.

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L.O.S.T forever!
Silver 2002 Skoda Fabia TDI, 235,000km
Former car: Jeep KJ 2003 CRD

DIESEL - saving millions of liters of petrol every day!

That sounds like your call.
First change I did had the same problem and had to use a breaker bar.
I just got back hour or so ago from my dealer. I had them order me 2 new drain
plug washers and a vacuum sensor filter. I called yesterday and they don't stock
either of those items, so they got them in for me overnight. I didn't need either of the items but I wanted them for spares.
I have the Fumoto but used the old washer on it and next oil change I wanted to
put a new washer there.
PS: You had a leak and they problem just cranked it a bit more to stop the leak.
What ever you decide please keep us advised.
Steve

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06 Silver Liberty
EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
Hangs behind my
motorhome on tow bars. Semi-retired and still learning.

I had the same problem as when the dealership changed my oil the last time they did not use a washer (so I had to put my fumoto on without it, but will rectify that on the next change).

I used an extension to give me more room but on the end of my socket wrench I slipped a long pipe over the handle. Applied pressure to loosen the bolt and it worked wonders.

Thanks, I was thinking they probably just cranked it down to stop the leak. I'll probably just slip a breaker bar on there and change it myself.

Use the breaker bar to back it off only.Tighten it hand only and you'll never have to worry about ruining the thread.
I change every 3500 and i torque it down good.
been on 0w40 and lucas syn.additive with a pure-one filter since the first change...good luck

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Bub
06 Inop Edition CRD Silver
06 Inop Edition CRD Green

....dealers may be using the air impact wrench for oil changes?
Wouldn't surprise me any

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I think we have discussed this before. the plug is aluminum and the oil pan is aluminum so when you tighten the plug just a little bit when the pan gets up to operating temperature and then cools down over and over it tightens all by itself nothing you can do about it, except replace the drain plug with the newer version plug which is made of steal with a copper washer. Hope this helps I had the same problem.

I had a 24K service agreement packaged with my purchase so the dealer had done all of my changes. When I went to do my first one and install the Fumoto I had the same problem. I was using a 1/2 inch ratchet handle and I added a short breaker bar to that, still without a budge. I took my Fumoto, filter and my oil to the dealer and paid them about $20 labor to extract the plug and install my Fumoto, oil and filter. Given the fact that the pan replacement is about $800 I figured the $20 was worth it.

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights

I had the same problem, I was not sure if I was using the correct allen wrench or not tried metric and standard woud not budge. I have just drove it home so the oi was hot and mixed up when I tried. Got Pissed when and had a beer great problem solver ( joke). But I did let it sit over night and tried it again in the morning. With out a cheater I was able to loosen the plug, back it 1/2 turn stopped, started it up and ran it for 5 minuts in the drive way. Shut it down and finished the job.

Well, I got under there Friday morning and broke it loose, then when I started undoing it, it got a few turns out and got tight again. I'm taking it to the dealer and have them do it.

That sounds cross-threaded and/or stripped. I would make them do it so they can pay to fix what is broken.

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

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2006 Midnight Blue Jeep Commander 4x4
Bone stock for now.
http://www.pnwjeep.net/forum

Well I took it to the dealer and had them change the oil and install the Fumoto. I took my own oil and filter and they only charged me $5.50.

thats gotta feel good!! glad you have a upstanding dealer. check for leaks around the new valve..just to be safe.

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2003 Silver Sport - Debadged
245/75/R16 DuraTracs
Cragar Soft 8s
OME Coils & Front Shocks, Bilstein Rear Shocks - Muddified Lift
JBA 4.5 UCA
K&N CAI
MagnaFlow Exhaust
Rola Vortex Rack

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