Simple correction for sure.
Your word on this matter carries a lot of weight due to your extensive experience and technical savvy.
Posts by GMCTD, more than any other, not to mention all the great folks here, helped me purchase the CRD Liberty. Thank you.

But I cannot help but feel on the edge of my comfort zone.
Splicing a circuit board and wiring into a loom of wires pushes me to the brink. If it were not for the extensive history of the first generation, which I read through, this kit would not have been considered. It was my choice to purchase this kit for $100. And For $175 more assembled I chose to do the homework and gain the skills to assemble the kit myself. I have the 0.015 solder, 15w iron, spectacles, multimeter and shaky hands, what more do I need? Plans, pictures and text, check.
First, I heard of resistors at the edge of specifications, what is a resistor anyway?
Then a trace where it does not belong, scratch that, no big deal.
You are correct JD, the little red jumper has me stumped.
When I was in high school there were 'lek-troniks dudes that could have helped me out. Now there are only older guys that could help me if I can find them, when I look around here, have to look harder.
I am freaked at the huge amount of technology in our society that we cannot fix!!! Let alone explain to someone else.
Please help Mr. Wizard.
Rob

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

^^^ If you can muster the courage to solder, attaching the jumper is no big deal. Cut a piece of small insulated electrical wire long enough to fit between the two ICs designated U2 and U3. Pin 7 is on the lower right hand corner of the IC placing the notch to your left and the text is right-side -up. Solder the wire between the two pin 7s on the back side of the PCB.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

I'll have to agree, Rob - even with my v--a--s--t experience , I was somewhat uneasy splicing into the KJ harness, being a 'new' vehicle with my inexperienced son needing to rely on it, while being unable to recognize any symptoms, or changes in symptoms, and me not being there to anticipate stuff based on those symptoms - but, the fun of it and the challenge of the unknown overcame the fear of the unknown, and then it was all over, all too soon, with belated pics

The red wire is a patch used to replace a copper conductor on the printed circuit board that was touching two components in the circuit - it is a method used all the time in industry to quickly correct misteaks, getting the product out the door during the slow process of being corrected and approved by engineering - it's a long-standing joke in industry that signals move faster thru red wire, than any other color

So, nothing to be concerned about - resolution is only a clear pic and a post away

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Why didn't you say "Red Wire" in the first place, I would have understood!
Just kidding, sorry UFO. Your helpful advise, even though I shoulda sent the kit to you for assembly, is greatly appreciated.
This is like marriage, even though I was quite young at 34, nothing to be rushed into.

R

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms