It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

crd liberty · **Posted:** Thu Apr 17, 2008 4:53 pm

Hi.
I am just curious here. For those have dropped the fuel tank. Is there a screen in the
fill tube anywhere? Several weeks ago in a different thread this came up.
I ran a 22 inch piece of tubing down the fill and never ran into anything.
The flapper closed on my tubing and I was afraid I was going to lose the tubing.
Finally got it out and figured it was not worth the effort for me to mess my system
up just to see if there really is a screen in there or not.
It's no big thing but I am seeing it come up again in some of the new threads.
Figured you guys would know after been there, done that.

Thanks.
Steve

bugnout · **Posted:** Thu Apr 17, 2008 9:40 pm

All done! started at 10:30 and finished up at 5:00, two trips to NAPA. Really wasn't that hard, but I do have air tools so getting everything apart was pretty easy. Got my son to steady the tank as I was re-installing the second time. Other than that, I pretty much did the whole job myself.

Issue 1. I too see a disparity in the fuel gauge. The gauge was at empty and the fuel light was on when I started the project. It read 1/4 tank after I put it all back together. Thought maybe I had the indexing off and the arm maybe wasn't able to sit on the bottom. So I took it all apart again and checked. The indexing is slightly different than the stock unit, but I double checked with a flashlight to make sure it would hit on the bottom at a flat spot. Seemed that every other indexing choice was worse so I left it. Couldn't have been more than 3 gallons in the tank during this operation. Wonder if its possible to swap the sending units?

Issue 2. for the life of me, I could not get the red, green, yellow and orange clips out of the connectors on the flexible hard line to the tank. Destroyed them all. Ran over to NAPA, they didn't have em, thought about running over to the local Chrysler dealer, but decided I wasn't really too impressed with the connections anyway. Looks like they might be the cause of my air issues, God knows I've investigated every other connection in the system. I just replace them both with fuel line. The supply side needs 5/16" line, the return 1/4". Used some very nice clamps, no holes and tapered so they don't cut into the hose. Everything went together very tight with the tank out of the KJ. I also extended the tank breather line and ran it up by the filler tube. I left the fuel lines long and cut to length once I got the tank back in. no leaks so far.

Wiring was straight forward. Just pulled the two wires out of the gasser harness I ordered. Thanks to ripster and dieseldawg for the excellent instructions for taking the connectors apart. I pulled the back seat out and removed the entire wiring harness and worked on it at my bench. went together very easily. looks factory. I used a self taping screw into the seat support that runs across the jeep. Same support the connector is attached to. Easy spot and didn't have to drill through the floor.

Pump worked first time, clicked on the key and checked that it ran 25 seconds then quit. burped the fuel manager head and it starts so sweet now, should have done this long ago. Filled up, gauge reads full. I'm off across country to Moab tomorrow so I'll be keeping my eye on the gauge and the odometer until I can figure out where empty lies.

Notice my signature now has the GULP mod listed (GMCTD's Upgrade to Lift Pump)

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:17 pm

Good install - and, yes: the fuel guage sending modules are directly interchangeable - just pop'em an swap'em

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Thu Apr 17, 2008 11:51 pm

crd liberty wrote:

Hi.
I am just curious here. For those have dropped the fuel tank. Is there a screen in the
fill tube anywhere?

I did not see a screen on the tank inlet.

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:32 am

gmctd wrote:

Good install - and, yes: the fuel guage sending modules are directly interchangeable - just pop'em an swap'em

Can you swap the pump unit into the factory cage such that the rotational geometry is not changed?

Dan

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 11:00 am

Could be done - using a long thin screwdriver, declip the baskets from the spring-loaded sliders, switcho-changeo, insert the wires into the connector and yer done - only prob would be the supply\return tubing, which is thermo-plastic, attached\sealed by the heat-shrink method: could use rubber tubing and clamps - could also nip the indexing tab, then install the module - the tab is to compensate for the quality of worker that employers are forced to hire - the clamp-ring cannot be installed unless the tab is indexed, but even with no tab, the pump cannot rotate after the clamp-ring is in place due to intense o-ring friction

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 11:39 am

gmctd wrote:

Could be done - using a long thin screwdriver, declip the baskets from the spring-loaded sliders, switcho-changeo, insert the wires into the connector and yer done - only prob would be the supply\return tubing, which is thermo-plastic, attached\sealed by the heat-shrink method: could use rubber tubing and clamps - could also nip the indexing tab, then install the module - the tab is to compensate for the quality of worker that employers are forced to hire - the clamp-ring cannot be installed unless the tab is indexed, but even with no tab, the pump cannot rotate after the clamp-ring is in place due to intense o-ring friction

blech... sounds like more trouble than its worth. My reasoning is that I've messed with replacing sending units on my ford van and even though the pump was gone, the one redeeming factor of the factory unit was that the gas gauge was accurate. I want an in-tank pump but I don't want to break my relatively accurate fuel readings in the process. If the resistance curves are identical and the vertical geometry and range of the sending units is identical and there is nothing inside the tank that would block the bottom swing of the float, how could the reading possibly be off (as alluded to by a few folks with the mod)?

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 11:47 am

I'm still thinking it's the 34\35gal thing - my install read identical B4 and after, module removed from a wrecked truck with a tank at least as big as the little mule, itself.

The fuel guage sending unit is a snap-in module consisting of the wiring, element, and float-arm, complete unto itself - you can see it in the pics on pg2 - just pop'n'swap

I'm looking at the KJ module - the basket is secured in the slider by one plastic latch-tab, easy to unlatch with the long screwdriver - if you were careful during the removal stage, the Dodge fuel tubing could be secured and sealed to the Jeep fuel ports with real nylon Tyraps, the ones with the steel latch-pin, rather than the cheap all-plastic type - food for thought

Guess I'll need to find another Dodge module, cheap, for some augmentative show'n'tell..............

fastRob · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:47 pm

Yup, the tank is on the ground.
Can anyone tell me how to disconnect the orange and green fuel lines?
Lifted the seat to get to the wires.

honey_don't · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:54 pm

fastRob wrote:

Yup, the tank is on the ground.
Can anyone tell me how to disconnect the orange and green fuel lines?
Lifted the seat to get to the wires.

Press the colored part in- they go in part-way easily and the rest of the way with more effort.

fastRob · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:56 pm

honey_don't wrote:

fastRob wrote:

Yup, the tank is on the ground.
Can anyone tell me how to disconnect the orange and green fuel lines?
Lifted the seat to get to the wires.

Press the colored part in- they go in part-way easily and the rest of the way with more effort.

Thanks.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:56 pm

Depress the blue or green or red thingy, then pull the tubes offa the module...........

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 3:15 pm

Has anyone noted the Tyco/AMP model number on any of the plugs used either under the seat or on the sender? I suspect if they're mass-market, then getting a new plug and making the darned thing yourself would be far cheaper than either a repair kit or a mopar harness.

Dan

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 3:39 pm

Fuel module connector shell has 52772-E3 cast, and 07256-L and 3339-67 printed in yellow ink

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 3:52 pm

dgeist wrote:

Has anyone noted the Tyco/AMP model number on any of the plugs used either under the seat or on the sender? I suspect if they're mass-market, then getting a new plug and making the darned thing yourself would be far cheaper than either a repair kit or a mopar harness.

Dan

even easier and cheaper would be to get two wires (shouldn't matter which ones)
off of someone that bought the harness and swap over the connectors... i mean if
someone bought the harness they should have more than enough connectors to
make at least 3 or 4 patch kits.

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 3:57 pm

05infernoCRDL wrote:

dgeist wrote:

Has anyone noted the Tyco/AMP model number on any of the plugs used either under the seat or on the sender? I suspect if they're mass-market, then getting a new plug and making the darned thing yourself would be far cheaper than either a repair kit or a mopar harness.

Dan

even easier and cheaper would be to get two wires (shouldn't matter which ones)
off of someone that bought the harness and swap over the connectors... i mean if
someone bought the harness they should have more than enough connectors to
make at least 3 or 4 patch kits.

Right, but I have plenty of wire and plenty of ground connections. All I need is the specs on the male/female pins. Typically they correspond to a particular line of modular connectors from amp/typco, etc.

You only need one pin (and a ground) on the body side and 2 pins on the module side, right? Not a problem after building an SEGR

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:05 pm

dgeist wrote:

Right, but I have plenty of wire and plenty of ground connections. All I need is the specs on the male/female pins. Typically they correspond to a particular line of modular connectors from amp/typco, etc.

You only need one pin (and a ground) on the body side and 2 pins on the module side, right? Not a problem after building an SEGR

true too... i was just sugesting to buy the extra wires not so much for the wire
but for the pins. i got all the pins i needed for the cost of shipping from a forum
member.

clday25 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 4:48 pm

My ears are ringing

Hope those wires/connectors are finding a good home!

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 5:17 pm

clday25 wrote:

My ears are ringing

Hope those wires/connectors are finding a good home!

working on it... my EX sold her CRD so i might have an extra set... she
was going to try and get it back the last i knew... long story

fastRob · **Posted:** Fri Apr 18, 2008 5:26 pm

Bought a repair kit, was delirious, thought I had it all.
Just females, which I have nothing against but, one small male pin is all I need and it is Friday after 5.
And the kids have my truck!
Could hard wire it in.
Going to extend the tank vent up by the inlet, so a length of whatever sized fuel line is needed.
An idea about the fuel level problem; depending upon the rotation (indexing) of the pump assembly in the tank there are lumps in the bottom of the tank that could raise up the float to indicate a higher bottom than there really is.

It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

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