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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 12:57 pm 
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Location: Martinsville, IN
Steve,

Do you know where this splice for C2-17 is physically located?

I'll try cleaning the MAF, though it doesn't appear to be dirty.

Mark

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 1:04 pm 
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MirageX wrote:
Steve,

Do you know where this splice for C2-17 is physically located?

I'll try cleaning the MAF, though it doesn't appear to be dirty.

Mark



Try cleaning the MAF. Use MAF sensor cleaner from your local auto store.
The C2-17 splice should have been made where you did your cut wires.
In the wiring harness. The color of that wire should be YEL/DBLU. Pin out
of that wire is in C2 pin 17.

Steve

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EHM/SEGR
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 Post subject: Parts source
PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 1:47 pm 
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MirageX,
I ran across this site for Mopar some time ago.Check them out .Their price is considerably less on the same genuine part a dealer sells.

http://www.wholesalemopar.com/?iorb=4764



rubicon03


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 2:04 pm 
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Location: Martinsville, IN
Steve (crd liberty),

I didn't realize we were talking about MY splices. :wink: I just checked those, and the connection is good in all three directions.

I cleaned the MAF. I had some of that stuff in my garage. Cleared the CEL with my scanner, started the engine, and the light came right back on.

I believe that this problem is genuinely a bad MAF.


rubicon03,

Thanks for the hot tip. $75 is better than $100 retail. Hmmm... These guys still don't give me a part number for comparison shopping, though.

Thanks to all!


Mark

MirageX

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:42 pm 
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MirageX,

Sorry, I'm jumping in a little late here but...
I too had the CEL stay on after installing the SEGR.
After some testing, I also suspected the MAF.
I had the MAF replaced, under warranty even 8) (long stiory)
But the CEL is still on.
My guess is that its my splices. Maybe too much resistance there?
Either way I haven't had much time to troubleshoot it and I know the EGR
stays closed because I personnally cut those wires. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 8:51 pm 
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MirageX,

where did you make your splices and how did you confirm that
your splices were made to the correct wire?

just trying a different approach and filling in the gaps.

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Trevor

'05 Limited CRD Inferno Red Pearl Coat
Home made provent installed @ 35443, SEGR installed @ 35466, Fumoto valve @ 37500, trans and transfer case skid, In tank pump installed @ 43500, Suncoast TC & Transgo Shift Kit @ 44730, EGT, Boost, Trans temp gauges, Samco hoses, Rebuilt Trans w/ HD454RFE kit @ 56K, Inmotion Stage 2 @ 56K


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 2:34 pm 
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Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Ok, I have run the fixed SEGR all weekend without issue. I have had a few fellas email me and ask if the PCB problem translates to previous SEGR revs. The answer is no just the current rev. And while it is a problem it is easily fixed. Let me know if you guys haver anymore ?'s.

Dennis

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2005 CRD Limited
1.5/2.0 Daystar Lift
V6 Airbox
SEGR ala TurboTim
255/70/16 Big O on Rubis minor trimming required
87k+ miles=3 factory TC's, 2 front pumps, 1 turbo, & drivers side wheel bearing/hub
Suncoast TC and Transgo Snake oil-41k
New Front Drive shaft-30K
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B&M Tranny Cooler


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:20 pm 
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LocoCRD wrote:
Ok, I have run the fixed SEGR all weekend without issue. I have had a few fellas email me and ask if the PCB problem translates to previous SEGR revs. The answer is no just the current rev. And while it is a problem it is easily fixed. Let me know if you guys haver anymore ?'s.

Dennis


I have two of the newly assembled SEGR's installed in the two CRD's my wife and I own. No running issues ,there was no code set initially on either at startup,but i kept playing until each showed the CEL.CEL reset in both after fourth start stop cycle.
I totally agree with Dennis. the correction /repair of the new PCB is very easy and basic.It shouldn't take a beginner much over a half hour to fix using the instruction's Dennis posted.
The SEGR performs exactly as it was intended to. Fuel mileage appears to to be great .It is too soon to give any actual calculated fuel use.The on board indicater was on 31.3 after driving a total of 33 miles,but I have seen this off(over) by 2 mpg.For those of us who live in the colder regions ,this mod will most likely be a fuel saver especially during the cold start warmup cycle.The engine is much more responsive to the throttle and does not lack for power during the warmup. It was 9* above zero this morning (NW Wisconsin)and the engine ran totally different than I have been accustomed to.Driveability much improved.Cold start was uneffected by mod .Started perfectly. I also have powerboxes incorporated on both vehicles .All you have to do is tickle the footpedal to maintain 60 with the addition of the segr,and I do mean tickle.The engine feels and sounds smoother. At this time I firmly believe the time and small expense invested will reap rewards for anyone planning to keep their vehicle for a long time and not wanting to pay the huge tolls for the EGR system maintenance.
Thank you LocoCRD,UFO,Turbo Tim and everyone who has contributed their time and input assistance in working thru this project,I would do it again knowing that we have such a diverse support team .
rubicon03


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 8:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:24 pm
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Location: Martinsville, IN
Quote:
MirageX,

where did you make your splices and how did you confirm that
your splices were made to the correct wire?

just trying a different approach and filling in the gaps.


Trevor (05infernoCRDL),

My splices are 8-10 inches from the ECU connectors. They are good, hot solder connections covered in heat-shrink tubing, and I've buried them in the original cloth harness wrap, wrapped in electrical tape.

I checked my connections by using a pin (stolen from the wife's sewing supplies) inserted in the connector, and have checked these clear back to the board itself. In addition to connector pin locations, the colors were checked to ensure they matched.

For the cut wires, I inserted a probe under the heat-shrink tubing on the far-side of the cuts (sensor/device side), and checked from the connector to the far side of the cuts with the bypass plug installed. I also checked these with the board plugged-in, from the board connections to the far-side of the cuts.

I've checked the connections in every imaginable direction. I've even checked to ensure that there is continuity from the MAF, itself, to the board.

No, I didn't swap any connections, either. I am certain, after spending too much time on this (including multiple unwrappings/rewrappings of the harness), that my connections are correct.

The box was plugged-in before the issue with the boards was revealed. It is possible that this is what ruined my MAF, as I had no CELs before that (well...not when it was plugged in, anyway).

After the correction was made, I performed a bench-test on the board, and got results within 0.1V of nominal voltages.

I will report on whether I fix this problem when the new MAF arrives.

Thanks!

Mark

MirageX

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 2:35 am 
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Location: Colorado
Mark,

sounds like you got it all covered. i mixed up the direction to./from the MAF and it did not
mess up my MAF. I also noticed that there were 2 or 3 dark blue/ green wires. just making
sure that you did not make my same fatal mistakes. with out pics it s hard to tell what might
be wrong. i posted my pics and immediately some one noticed my mistake in the wiring.
my only other suggestion would be post pics and your wiring schematic.

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Trevor

'05 Limited CRD Inferno Red Pearl Coat
Home made provent installed @ 35443, SEGR installed @ 35466, Fumoto valve @ 37500, trans and transfer case skid, In tank pump installed @ 43500, Suncoast TC & Transgo Shift Kit @ 44730, EGT, Boost, Trans temp gauges, Samco hoses, Rebuilt Trans w/ HD454RFE kit @ 56K, Inmotion Stage 2 @ 56K


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:52 am 
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Definitely post pictures of your PCB, front and back. A small mistake can be difficult to find, and other sets of eyes will pick it up quickly.

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'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

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 Post subject: Bad MAF, that's all
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 8:36 pm 
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Location: Martinsville, IN
Post pictures of my PCB? It bench-tested within a few hundredths of a volt from nominal values. This thread is long, though, and there's no way anybody is going to remember every detail of my problems. :D

I believe I'd eliminated everything but the MAF and the AtoD circuit in the ECU that reads the voltages.

The MAF arrived today. A few minutes ago I plugged it in, cleared my codes, and fired it up. Finally no CEL!

The CEL was showing up immediately after starting the engine, before. Certainly driving it around tomorrow will give me the final answer on whether everything's OK, but I believe this fixed it.

moparpart.com had the best price, so thanks for that tip, rubicon03.

If anybody else needs the CRD MAF, the part number it is: 1-53013733AB.

Thanks for all the help, guys!

Mark

MirageX

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 9:06 pm 
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Location: Colorado
congratulations Mark! welcome to the ever growing club

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Trevor

'05 Limited CRD Inferno Red Pearl Coat
Home made provent installed @ 35443, SEGR installed @ 35466, Fumoto valve @ 37500, trans and transfer case skid, In tank pump installed @ 43500, Suncoast TC & Transgo Shift Kit @ 44730, EGT, Boost, Trans temp gauges, Samco hoses, Rebuilt Trans w/ HD454RFE kit @ 56K, Inmotion Stage 2 @ 56K


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:37 pm 
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Good work. Sorry, I don't know how I missed the bit about your box testing good.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 5:02 pm 
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So... anything come out of your interest in C1-11?

Inquiring minds wanna know!

Thx - Mark
-

gmctd wrote:
Interestingly enuff, here is C1-11 Torque Management Request pin - hmmmm......what's gmctd up to, now, eh?

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 Post subject: SEGR kit.
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:46 am 
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Location: Glyndon MD
Traded the little beast this morning for a VW, R32. Have unbuilt SEGR left over as well as other goodies.
If only Chrysler would have done it right. Sigh. I will miss the good parts. PM me.

Larry K. :cry:

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 Post subject: Re: SEGR kit.
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:57 am 
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Anomious wrote:
Traded the little beast this morning for a VW, R32. Have unbuilt SEGR left over as well as other goodies.
If only Chrysler would have done it right. Sigh. I will miss the good parts. PM me.

Larry K. :cry:



what other goodies?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 3:41 pm 
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Built and helped install 2 more SEGR kits today. Anybody else get theirs done yet?

_________________
2005 CRD Limited
1.5/2.0 Daystar Lift
V6 Airbox
SEGR ala TurboTim
255/70/16 Big O on Rubis minor trimming required
87k+ miles=3 factory TC's, 2 front pumps, 1 turbo, & drivers side wheel bearing/hub
Suncoast TC and Transgo Snake oil-41k
New Front Drive shaft-30K
Stage 2 InMotion Tune-54k, makes me go :)
B&M Tranny Cooler


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 Post subject: Quick Follow-Up
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 6:06 pm 
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Location: Martinsville, IN
It's been a couple of weeks, and the SEGR is working perfectly! My problem was truly the MAF. Just thought I'd share! 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 6:19 pm 
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LocoCRD wrote:
Built and helped install 2 more SEGR kits today. Anybody else get theirs done yet?
I've shipped 2 soldered and 5 complete kits. Should get 10 more out by mid-week next week.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---


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