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 Post subject: rear t-case seal??
PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:02 pm 
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hey guys,

just wondering if anyone has any experience changing there rear t-case seal, i'm pretty sure mine went the other day, i got fluid shot all around under the libby from where the driveshaft connects .

if anyone has any know how of this just a lil write up on changeing it would be nice

thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:57 pm 
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I just had mine go too at only 16,000 miles but I had the dealership change it, only took half day so it cannot be too hard.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:42 pm 
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yah i'm at 73000KM and its spiting fluid, not much though... anyone else with some imput?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:38 pm 
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I noticed a leak under mine today. I'm at the 78000km mark.
I haven't seen many t-cases that don't leak when the mileage hets higher.


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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 8:26 am 
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You mean the rear DIFFERENTIAL Right? There is only one T-Cas or Transfer Case and it is neither front or rear.

The rear diff is the thing in the center of the rear axel housing. Transfer case is up under the front seats, next to the transmission.

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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 11:12 am 
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WoodysKJ wrote:
You mean the rear DIFFERENTIAL Right? There is only one T-Cas or Transfer Case and it is neither front or rear.

The rear diff is the thing in the center of the rear axel housing. Transfer case is up under the front seats, next to the transmission.
The t-case has 2 output seals,one front and on rear,one for the front drive shaft output and the rear driveshaft output.The t-case has one input though.


231/242 t-case----Seal part#-05072307AA,you will also need and new "slinger",very hard to save the one that's on there,part# 05072308AA.

242(231HD) t-case-----Seal part#-05019026AA,no slinger on this t-case.

You will also need 2 zip-ties to re-secure the slip yoke boot back on.Takes about 30min to replace the rear output seal on the t-case,make sure you drain the t-case first!


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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 11:19 am 
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Install(from '02 FSM).............

Quote:
REAR OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Shift the transmission and transfer case into
NEUTRAL.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Mark a line across the pinion shaft and at each
end of the propeller shaft for installation reference.
(4) Remove the U-joint strap bolts at the pinion
shaft yoke.
(5) Pry open clamp holding the dust boot to propeller
shaft yoke (Fig. 95).
(6) Slide the slip yoke off of the transmission/
transfer case output shaft and remove the propeller
shaft.
(7) Spread band clamp which holds output shaft
boot to the output shaft slinger, or output shaft
damper, with a suitable awl, or equivalent.
NOTE: Vehicles built with a manual transmission
use a damper weight on the transfer case output
shaft. Be sure to identify the transfer case before
proceeding.
(8 ) Remove output shaft boot from slinger, or output
shaft damper, and output shaft.
(9) If the vehicle is not equipped with an output
shaft damper, remove the output shaft rear slinger
using Puller MD-998056-A (Fig. 96).
(10) If the vehicle is equipped with an output shaft
damper, use Screws 8421 (Fig. 97) and the puller
yoke and forcing screw from a bolt-grip puller set,
such as those used to remove steering wheels and
harmonic balancers, to remove the transfer case output
shaft damper.
(11) Use a suitable pry tool, or a slide hammer
mounted screw, to remove the seal from the rear
retainer (Fig. 98).

INSTALLATION
(1) Apply liberal quantity of petroleum jelly to new
rear seal and to output shaft. Petroleum jelly is
needed to protect seal lips during installation.
(2) Slide seal onto Seal Protector 8824 (Fig. 99).
Slide seal protector and seal onto output shaft.
(3) Slide Installer 8691 onto seal and mainshaft.
Drive seal into rear bearing retainer (Fig. 100).
(4) Install a new output shaft rear slinger with
Installer 8408, if the vehicle is not equipped with an
output shaft damper.
(5) If the vehicle is equipped with an output shaft
damper, install the output shaft damper as follows:
(a) Position the damper weight on the output
shaft. Start the damper onto the output shaft
chamfer, being careful to keep the weight square to
the output shaft. (Fig. 101)
NOTE: Be sure that the damper is installed with the
raised mounting flange for the propeller shaft boot
towards the rear of the mainshaft.
(b) Position the Driver Installer 8680 (Fig. 102)
onto the damper, making sure the legs of the
installer are positioned through the slots of the
damper.
(c) Thread the puller screw from Installer 8422
into the output shaft by hand only. Make sure the
screw is fully threaded into the output shaft.
(d) Using a wrench to hold the pulling screw stationary
(Fig. 103), turn the pulling screw nut until
the driver legs contact the rear face of the transfer
case rear retainer. When the legs contact the
retainer, the damper is properly positioned on the
output shaft.
(6) Install boot on output shaft slinger, or output
shaft damper, and crimp retaining clamp with tool
C-4975-A (Fig. 104).
(7) Slide the slip yoke on the transmission/transfer
case output shaft. Align installation reference marks
at the axle yoke and install the propeller shaft.
(8) Tighten the U-joint strap/clamp bolts at the
axle yoke to 19 N·m (14 ft. lbs.).
(9) Crimp clamp with Clamp Tool C-4975A to hold
dust boot to propeller shaft yoke.
(10) Remove support and lower the vehicle.


It's really not that hard and most of the special tools are not required,sorry the pics wouldn't copy over,it's much easier if you have the auto tranny then the manual tranny.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 11:49 am 
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Troy, Sorry bout that. I was reading it to mean the diff.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 11:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:10 pm
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Thanks guys this should help


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