Howdy folks, my first post, my first jeep.

Anyway it'll get down to it. I loved my 4-runner, but it had to go. No air bags and 14 mpg. I spent a good year trying to find a nice limited crd, and when i did, i jumped on it.
I've been reading these forums for a long time and i knew what i was getting into, long story short, i got a good deal and i've had a grin on my face ever since I bought it, wife loves the smell of the elephant hose mod =).

About this clunk; I read about folks having problems with the front sway bars making a racket and a few other things related to loose nuts/bolts so i turned every bolt under there, and lubed every piece of rubber i could find, and could not get rid of this clunk, gave up after a few days of wrenching, i figured "it HAS to be a motor mount" because the clunk kinda sounded like the rattle of death when you turn it off.

I found a nice dealership out here, Carl Burgers, a five star that's local to me, they spent 8 days on the damm thing, they replaced a arms, drive shafts, rack components and struts, sway bar, etc etc. I just about went stir crazy, i was having boughs of withdrawal.

Today, just now, they called me. It was a loose bolt on the driver side motor mount, something i was to lazy to get at. I don't know if i can last another day, but i'll have to try, because they are putting it in for alignment so i wont get it till tomorrow.

These dudes had a frigging microphone and a pair of headphones strung out the window trying to find the noise!

Speaking of rattles, i cant stand em, and since your here i may as well tell you, the white plastic lamp cover for the driver entry floor lamp, it make one hell of a racket, take it off, like i did. I know it's American and it's gonna rattle, but i'm American too and I'm going to stop it!

Point is, when your hunting that dang rattle/clunk, check the mounts. That is all.

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06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims

I keep saying motor mounts, but no one listens.


Mine turned out to he the same problem, upper motor mount nut loose.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Hmmm, Thats what that clunk is.... I'll have to crawl under there and look tomorrow.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Hmm.. I hear a loud "clunk" when I slowly go over speed bumps and have the wheel turned to the right. I'll checkout my motor mounts. They easy to see & get to?

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'05 Liberty CRD
'05 Jaguar S-Type R

Clunk world,

I get a clunk when:

- im in 4 full time and accell decell (will look for motor moutns cos that makes sence)
-rear pass side, after breaking, seems when the truck settles down, it clunks and i cant reproduce it my manually moving anything ONLY when breaking.

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Liberty CRD 2005
50K miles
ORM / EHM /facet lift pump
Suncoast TC and still shudders...
straight pipe.

I had my passenger side motor mount tightend a year ago completely got rid of any clunking.

Nix, drivers side motor mount can easily be eyeballed from under with the motor skid removed, however, i cant speak to ease of access to the nuts, bolts etc, and i have no info on the passenger side. However I reckon it cant be to difficult. Good luck!

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06 CRD Limited. IMII, GDE TCM, Carter transfer pump, Upgraded oem primary, 2 micron secondary, 3 inch mandrel straight pipe.
Transgo shift kit, EHM, fcv butterfly removed, egr plated off. 19 3/8 solid flex fan, no electric fan, 10k lb aux trans cooler.
Frankenlift II, Mopar skids, allj's rails, 235/85 km2 on stock rims

Don't rule out the transmission mounts. First it was the driver side engine mount then it was a transmission mount. It's easy to pry around and find out which mount it is when it happens.

How the heck do ou tighten the engine mounts? Do you need to tighten the top and bottom bolts on mount? HELP. I have this issue and can't figure out how to get to the engine mount nuts that may need tightening or checking the very least.

We don't have a lot of $$ right now so dealership is out of question.

Thanks!

Drew

More often that not its the top bolt needing the tightening.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

I had to replace my right engine mount to fix this complaint (go to this thread if your interested in background information:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 532#347532 ).

This was in my PM, so I decided to post my reply publicly in case anyone else needed help with this project (I hope you don't mind Drewd ).





I only messed with the right (passenger side) motor mount. I looked at the left side upper nut, and it looks easier to get to. You don't have to remove anything on the top of the right side to access the upper mount nut.

To tighten the top nut on the right side, you should remove the air cleaner cover. I took the clamp loose at the cover (not the turbo) and removed it completely. Then you need a looooooong 1/2 inch socket extension with a u-joint and a mid size (not too shallow and not too deep) 18mm socket to get to the nut and tighten it. Use a big ratchet or breaker bar to tighten it.
For the bottom nut, you can use the same setup as above. If you remove the lower skid plate, it's a real easy job.

As far as replacing the motor mount, it is super easy if you have access to a hydraulic lift, if not, it would not be easy, but do-able.

To get to the upper nut, you again, need to remove the air cleaner cover. You also need to loosen the upper fan shroud. The fan shroud is held in place by two 10mm bolts about 1/4 way down on each side of the shroud. Remove the 2 bolts then pull the shroud out from under the A/C hoses (you need to push it rearward towards the engine to get it "loose"). Remove the top nut off the engine mount.
Jack up the vehicle (preferably on a vehicle hoist ). Remove the lower skid plate and then remove the lower bolt. Raise the engine/transmission up to get the mount out. You have to raise the engine up high enough to clear the 2 studs sticking out on the top and the bottom of the mount (I would guess about 4 to 5 inches). This is the easy part, the hard part is getting the mount past the exhaust. I just yanked it out with a prybar, then jammed the new one back in. Be careful though!! The engine is raised up pretty high while your doing this and could fall off the jack stand (or whatever you choose to lift it with).

Put the mount in place and install the 2 mount nuts. The mount has a "key pin" in it and can only be installed (properly) one way. Put everything back in reverse order that you removed it (don't forget to tighten the motor mount nuts ).

TIP: If you don't loosen the fan shroud, you may break it with the cooling fan when you lift the engine up. The shop manual says to remove the fan and the shroud, but loosening up the shroud worked for me, I didn't touch the fan at all. Raise the engine only enough to get the mount in and out!
Also, when installing the shroud, there are 2 hooks on the bottom of the lower shroud that you have to engage properly to the upper shroud before it will fit in place. Make sure you have the hooks engaged properly or you may break something trying to get the 10mm bolts back in. When everything is lined up, it goes together pretty easy!

I have 2000 miles on mine since the mount and not a hint of a crack/clunk/creak/rattle/etc. Fixed all my complaints of "front end noise".

Hope this helps....... :

I had a similar clunk. Turned out to be the tailgate. Adjusted the latch and it disappeared.

Thanks for the advice. I for the life of me can't get a socket attached to a ratchet into the area necessary to tighten the bottom bolt on either side. There is tons of stuff in the way to make it a straight shot to the nut and give me clearance to rotate the ratchet to tighten the bottom engine mount bolt.

Is this because the car is on ramps and the tires should be off the ground allowing suspension parts to lower to allow clearance/access to the nut.

Sorry if my ? is dumb, but we are almost desperate to get this thing fixed.

Thanks!
Drew

I used an open end wrench...........

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic