It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

bugnout · **Posted:** Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:32 pm

dgeist wrote:

Joe Romas wrote:

Bill.Barg wrote:

My tow hitch bolts had locktite on them. I did not put any on during re-install, and I would have liked to.

I have a hitch also and found that by gently bending the two straps down it was not necessary to remove the two rear bolts :lol:

Joe/Bill (anyone), do you have any photos of what needs to be removed to drop the tank? I'm fine getting under there and figuring it out but don't have very much time with myself and the jeep in the same place. I did the interior wiring section in about 2 hours last weekend and only need to re-pin the pump connector and add the pump to be done and was hoping to save time in planning.

Dan

Ok, I did it the other way. Put the hydralic jack on the center of the tank and removed the two bolts for the tank straps in the back. I didn't remove the front bolts.

I had to remove the hitch since it uses the same mounting hardware as the skid plate.

Dropping the tank was surprisingly easy IF you don't have a fuel tank skid plate. Its just two bolts and a jack or block of wood to to prevent the tank from hanging on the fuel lines and wiring. Its much more work to get the back seat out.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Jun 03, 2008 4:09 pm

dgeist wrote:

[quote="Joe
Joe/Bill (anyone), do you have any photos of what needs to be removed to drop the tank? I'm fine getting under there and figuring it out but don't have very much time with myself and the jeep in the same place. Dan

Dan.

No pictures, sorry but.
First remove the three screws behind the fuel door so the filler neck will drop some. Next with a floor jack under the tank remove the 2 straps, I just removed the 2 front bolts and bent the straps downward. Then with the jack under it lower the tank slightly. Then reach in under where the fuel filler is and loosen the hose clamps for the filler and vent hoses on the top left edge of the tank and remove the hoses from the tank. The top of the vent hose fits nto a plastic clip. Lower it a little more and disconnect the fuel lines by pushing in on the color tabs while pushing them on to release the disconnects. I used a small pair of channel lock pliers on them. Before putting it back up I connected the pump cable and using a piece of plastic tubing looped the return and output of the pump together to verify operation. It would be easier getting the tank back in if you emptied the tank while it's out. My guage was one mark above "E" and there was a lot of fuel sloshing around in there as I was raising it back into position. I removed the right half of the tab on the new module to align it like the original and so far the guage works as it did before. Looking at the top of the pump you'll see a rib or mold line that devides the tab in the middle. Looking down on it the right part needs to be removed. Maintain the circular shape so the "O" ring will seal properly. Once there it will be obvious what you need to do to orintentate properly. I've removed this type of retaing rings before on VW's and use a blunt chisel and hammer to rotate the ring. Since you've got the inside done your onto the easy part, just a little smelly though :lol:

I think the underneath work took about 2 hours including putting the ends into the connector.

Joe

MTB_TDI · **Posted:** Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:37 pm

I was actually planning on using a longer and larger gauge wire for the power connection. I was planning on soldering the ends from the wire I was supplied onto a new wire of a larger gauge. Most of the explanations in this thread are for switching wires around on the gasser harness and not adding to the old CRD harness.

bugnout · **Posted:** Tue Jun 03, 2008 6:02 pm

This is a rehash from earlier posts.

Plug at the fuel tank:

Fuel Sender Plug has black ground on #1 -- THIS IS THE NEW GROUND YOU ARE ADDING
Blue/Green Stripe #2
Blue/Yellow Strip #3
Green/Orange #4 -- THIS IS THE POWER LEAD TO THE LIFT PUMP YOU ARE ADDING

Connector Under the Seat,
PIN 2 IS THE POWER LEAD TO THE LIFT PUMP YOU ARE ADDING
LIFT PUMP GROUND DOES NOT GO THROUGH THIS CONNECTOR, IT IS ATTACHED TO THE FLOORPAN

MTB_TDI · **Posted:** Wed Jun 04, 2008 10:10 pm

bugnout,

Thanks for the wires and the pictures. I think that is what I needed. I read all the posts but there have been a lot of posts. I got it now. It should be pretty easy, add a new wire to my existing CRD harnes (larger gauge but with my new connectors). Basicly I am adding the power lead to the number 2 position (green/orange wire) of the harness under my seat to the number 4 position on the lift pump plug, add the ground wire to position number 1 on the lift pump plug and ground that. Is that correct?

I will check functionality of everthing via a voltmeter and it should come on for 30-45 seconds and go off after the key is cycled on. At least that is from my memory. Now to order the pump!

bugnout · **Posted:** Wed Jun 04, 2008 11:34 pm

You got it. fuse and circuit are already in place and powered, your just extending the circuit back to the tank to power the lift pump.

maxxgraphix · **Joined:** Wed Mar 26, 2008 8:11 am **Posts:** 53

Do the new CRD's have a lift pump? I spoke with a dealer about the lack of one on the 2005 and they implied that all the new ones have it.

dgeist · **Posted:** Thu Jun 05, 2008 12:47 pm

maxxgraphix wrote:

Do the new CRD's have a lift pump? I spoke with a dealer about the lack of one on the 2005 and they implied that all the new ones have it.

Are you talking about US or international? There is no such thing as a new CRD (unless you mean the Grand) in the US, only 2005 and 2006.

maxxgraphix · **Joined:** Wed Mar 26, 2008 8:11 am **Posts:** 53

Yes the US Grand Cherokee CRD was stated to have a lift pump by dealer.

MTB_TDI · **Posted:** Thu Jun 05, 2008 10:51 pm

Can someone tell me the gauge of the power wire (green/orange)? I would like to get the right size of wire.
Thanks,
I let everyone know when I am done with the install. It might be a few weeks. But I will get it done.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 12:51 am

Power and ground need 18ga

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:29 am

gmctd wrote:

Power and ground need 18ga

hmm, i just used the one complete lead given to me by another member. It looks like all the leads are 18g, but I didn't measure before I put the carpet back....

Anyone know the wattage on the pump? I'm guessing the run is around 15-20 feet to the fuse box. I don't want to light my carpet on fire....

Dan

fastRob · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 3:38 pm

dgeist wrote:

gmctd wrote:

Power and ground need 18ga

hmm, i just used the one complete lead given to me by another member. It looks like all the leads are 18g, but I didn't measure before I put the carpet back....

Anyone know the wattage on the pump? I'm guessing the run is around 15-20 feet to the fuse box. I don't want to light my carpet on fire....

Dan

Dan,
The soicket is pro-teckted by a fuze, already installed.
Highly unlikely to set the carpet on fire unless you fall asleep with a cigarette going.
Under the hood in the fuse box by the battery is a fuel pump....fuse.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:24 pm

Fuses are sized with an expectation of a certain wire size. If the fuse will allow more current than the wire is intended to carry, Dan's concern is justified. To put it another way, wire size and fuse size need to be matched for safety. Undersizing the wire can have the same effect as oversizing the fuse.

dgeist · **Posted:** Sat Jun 07, 2008 3:02 pm

Goglio704 wrote:

Fuses are sized with an expectation of a certain wire size. If the fuse will allow more current than the wire is intended to carry, Dan's concern is justified. To put it another way, wire size and fuse size need to be matched for safety. Undersizing the wire can have the same effect as oversizing the fuse.

Yep, the current through the line was what I was thinking, not that it would actually melt anything (except the insulation, perhaps), but having a badly sized wire is just bad juju in my book. I'll get chastised by my wife, the electrical engineer

Thankfully, the fuse probably will blow if anything gets too hot as the resistance (and effective wattage used by the circuit) goes up as the temp increases, I'd just like to avoid future carpet removal... that was a HUGE PITA.

Dan

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2008 3:17 pm

So, I put up pictures of my install today, many self explanatory, many just for documentation later:
http://kj.polter.net/pics/cummins_pump/

Have fun. I'll add captions at some point...

Ripster · **Posted:** Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:25 am

All my photos are linked to a server that has gone down in this thread, once I get them to a new
site will update my posts and get the links back up. Sorry for the missing photos.

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:15 am

Well with the wife outta town I finally had time to drop the tank and getter done. The tractor does run a little smoother and definately quieter. Last part won't matter tonight cause i'm gonna cut out that little bitty muffler and straight pipe it for now. Thanks to gmctd for figuring this mod out and to everyone else who has contributed to the excellent write ups in this thread.

Loco

MTB_TDI · **Posted:** Wed Jul 02, 2008 11:24 am

LocoCRD wrote:

Well with the wife outta town I finally had time to drop the tank and getter done.
Loco

Mines going in next week. While the wife is out of town. Kind of ironic that we both are choosing to do it at that time.

dgeist · **Posted:** Wed Jul 02, 2008 4:52 pm

MTB_TDI wrote:

LocoCRD wrote:

Well with the wife outta town I finally had time to drop the tank and getter done.
Loco

Mines going in next week. While the wife is out of town. Kind of ironic that we both are choosing to do it at that time.

I had to wake up early on 2 consecutive Saturdays to do it when the wife had already asked if I minded if she sleep in... ( of course I don't mind as long as you don't mind me getting up at the butt-crack of dawn and wrenching till I'm sweaty and sore ).

It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

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