SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 8:37 pm

[quote="UFO"][/quote]

PM sent

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:03 pm

If the relay were to fail on the SEGR, in the open mode or not connecting, the AFC just would not operate. It (the AFC) would be wide open and the worst is the engine would shudder on shutdown (as it would not see the command to close to prevent the shudder).

If the relay were to fail on the SEGR in the closed mode, or connected all the time, the AFC valve would be active all the time. It would try to choke the engine to force the EGR to be added in, at different levels at different times, just as it would act normally.

If the AFC valve is sticking, it would cause problems.
Let us know what you find, if anything.

Scott Langohr · **Posted:** Thu Jun 12, 2008 6:04 pm

I have not had a problem all week long with the SEGR on line. The problem did not go away immediately upon plugging in the bypass. I went through at least 3 accelerate / decelerate cycles before it stoped completely. Each time was better the the previous. I have not had time to remove the FCV and check the butterfly and, since it is running perfectly right now, I don't have it high on my priority list. I did open the hood and located it by using the posted diagrams but it does not look like the easiest project to tackle for a dope like me. I'll let you know if the problem shows up again.

kntrygurl · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2008 11:10 pm

hey ya'll, i'm new to the site and am learnin all i can on my CRD. i have it three months now and i have had it in the shop for a one of those three months and now that i have it back i am tryin to find all the lil tips and tricks to helpin my baby last longer....i would love to know more about this and what it is for.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2008 11:33 pm

kntrygurl wrote:

hey ya'll, i'm new to the site and am learnin all i can on my CRD. i have it three months now and i have had it in the shop for a one of those three months and now that i have it back i am tryin to find all the lil tips and tricks to helpin my baby last longer....i would love to know more about this and what it is for.

Unplugged the MAF disables the EGR, which keeps your Jeep happy, less crap in the intake, better driveability, better gas mileage. However it leaves a check engine light on all the time, which for some people is annoying, wife won't put up with it type of thing. So in comes this kit, it does the same thing as unplugged the MAF, but keeps the check engine light off.

kntrygurl · **Posted:** Sun Jun 15, 2008 11:41 pm

ok...so how much is this and how hard would this be to install? would i need it? i occasion;y head off road but i have to say here lately i have been on the road back and forth to texas quite a bit lately

CRD Sport · **Joined:** Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:42 pm **Posts:** 22

I've got my board built and the box almost ready to go, just need to run the wires to the connectors. I'll be installing it Sat. along with a Provent if everything goes as planned.

I know the resistors are marked with the kit, but I found a really easy program to verify the resistors in case you get them mixed up. Just plug in the colors on the resistor and it will calculate the value for you. I used this to double check during my build, figured a few of you might find it usefull.

http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/res.html

UFO · **Posted:** Thu Jun 19, 2008 11:03 am

kntrygurl wrote:

ok...so how much is this and how hard would this be to install? would i need it? i occasion;y head off road but i have to say here lately i have been on the road back and forth to texas quite a bit lately

A kit from Loco runs about $95. If you want it built for you so all you have to do is splice it in your Jeep, that costs another $175.

blacksmoke · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2008 6:04 pm

Sooo, I finally build the kit and installed it last month, here's what happened and what I've done so far:
1) installed everything and fired up: got code P403 and P1140
2) removed the box, checked continuity in all wires and contacts: everything is good and at the right place
3) retouched the soldering, tested the box as per GMCTD instructions: everything is good, relay click and all outputs are good
4) put back the box, erased code (with my trusty Scanguage) and tried again: P403 is gone, but P1140 stays
5) removed the box and put a bypass in the connector: even if I erase the code it comes back right away :evil:

6) put back the box, the engine runs smooth, things are looking good, my average is 26mpg city/highway, i have less smoke and a more responsive feeling... but P1140 is ALWAYS there!

What do you guys think? Could it be a magical coincidence or is there really something wrong? I mean with the bypass I should get everything back normal, that code should disappear when I reset it, right? :cry:

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2008 7:04 pm

blacksmoke wrote:

Sooo, I finally build the kit and installed it last month, here's what happened and what I've done so far:
1) installed everything and fired up: got code P403 and P1140
2) removed the box, checked continuity in all wires and contacts: everything is good and at the right place
3) retouched the soldering, tested the box as per GMCTD instructions: everything is good, relay click and all outputs are good
4) put back the box, erased code (with my trusty Scanguage) and tried again: P403 is gone, but P1140 stays
5) removed the box and put a bypass in the connector: even if I erase the code it comes back right away :evil:

6) put back the box, the engine runs smooth, things are looking good, my average is 26mpg city/highway, i have less smoke and a more responsive feeling... but P1140 is ALWAYS there!

What do you guys think? Could it be a magical coincidence or is there really something wrong? I mean with the bypass I should get everything back normal, that code should disappear when I reset it, right? :cry:

If the bypass will not restore the codes after a clear, you may have a wiring error.

How do you know your box outputs are good?

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2008 7:26 pm

When did you get your kit? Do you have this PCB error that need to be fixed?

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=322229#322229

Edit: Been a long day...maybe I should read your whole post....didn't see the part about the bypass not working...lol

blacksmoke · **Posted:** Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:01 pm

No I didn't saw the PCB error, will try that today!!!

As for the box output, following gmctd instructions one can see the output going + or ground depending on inputs, so that part of the test is good.

Thanks!

UFO · **Posted:** Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:24 pm

blacksmoke wrote:

No I didn't saw the PCB error, will try that today!!!

As for the box output, following gmctd instructions one can see the output going + or ground depending on inputs, so that part of the test is good.

Thanks!

That test is not comprehensive and will not pick up the error in the PCB in the latest spin. If you have that, definitely fix it and try again, but double check your wiring first.

blacksmoke · **Posted:** Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:27 pm

I have rev 1.0 of the board, which does not have the line going across R24 & R25.
Will test the cable again, but I'm 99.9% sure its right because I've traced it with the continuity meter on the original cables (on each side of the cut).
I hate it when I don't understand a bug :-(

Deeso · **Posted:** Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:48 am

Hello,

New to this forum. Is a SEGR kit still available? I physically cut and sealed the tube running from the EGR to the intake about 24K miles ago. Also unpluged the air valve. I have been living with the CEL, and I check for new codes often. Would be nice to get rid of the light.

Thanks,
Dave

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Jun 27, 2008 10:45 am

Deeso wrote:

Hello,

New to this forum. Is a SEGR kit still available? I physically cut and sealed the tube running from the EGR to the intake about 24K miles ago. Also unpluged the air valve. I have been living with the CEL, and I check for new codes often. Would be nice to get rid of the light.

Thanks,
Dave

Kits are still available through LocoCRD and I am still assembling them for those who need it.

donlvnv · **Posted:** Fri Jun 27, 2008 12:55 pm

UFO wrote:

Deeso wrote:

Hello,
I got my SEGR from Loco and just got back from a little trip up to Cimmaron NM, Eagles Nest, Taos and Santa Fe. Mileage was from a low of 28 to high of 32mpg, didn't count the 40mpg I got from Red River to Questa :-)

.

New to this forum. Is a SEGR kit still available? I physically cut and sealed the tube running from the EGR to the intake about 24K miles ago. Also unpluged the air valve. I have been living with the CEL, and I check for new codes often. Would be nice to get rid of the light.

Thanks,
Dave

Kits are still available through LocoCRD and I am still assembling them for those who need it.

aandlwoods · **Joined:** Mon Jun 09, 2008 4:53 pm **Posts:** 96

Hello and thank you to everyones input on this whole thing. I bought a kit secondhand unassembled from a member that sold his CRD. I got everything soldered up on the board and drilled the holes in the box and shaved down the power resistor. I headed to 3 different hardware stores and had no luck at all. Some of them had #4 bolts and nuts but didnt have coupler nuts small enough. I was wondering if LOCO, UFO or any other kit builders could either steer me in the right direction as to where to find the hardware or sell me some hardware that you have, please.

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:16 am

Deeso, PM sent

aandlwoods, PM me with your mailing address and I'll send you some out.

GGK · **Posted:** Fri Jul 04, 2008 4:50 pm

Turbo Tim wrote:

I’m more inclined to believe the AFC (Air Flow Control) valve stuck or might be giving you problems. If the EGR could sneak open just a tad, all that would happen is you would lose some performance, not shaking or shuddering. Now the AFC will choke the engine and if it totally closes, it will shut the engine off. If partially closed could cause the shuddering you felt.
Most of the EGR codes (CEL’s) apply to both units, the EGR and AFC, as both are needed together to make the EGR system work.

If the problem returns after you clear the codes, you might want to check the AFC by pulling the air hose off where it connects to the engine, look in there and see if the butterfly moves freely.

Here's the scenario:

I'm stuck down in Mexico with my 2006 CRD (52K miles, no warranty) and a service dealership that doesn't seem to know what they are doing.
About 500kms ago, I experienced the problem for the first time. When I start the engine and take off, there is no problem with power. However, once I slow down for a speed bump or a traffic light and attempt to go once again, the engine losses all power. By this I mean that when I accelerate again the engine cannot seem to do anything but accelerate very slowly. Accelerating between 1500 and 1600 rpm there is a terrible vibration/shudder that sounds like I am going over a speed bump, and once I get to 2000 rpm the engine effectively cuts power and I cannot accelerate any more. On the highway I am limited to 80km/hr.
If I pull off to the side, restart the engine and then step on it the engine takes off right away with lots of power - at least until I slow down for the next stop light.
I took it to the dealership here in Puerto Vallarta and the first thing they told me was that there was a problem with the air flow sensor. After 3 weeks of waiting for the part, they changed it and the problem persisted. I took it back and the next time they told me it was a problem with intake pressure sensor. This was changed with a delay of another 3 weeks, and the problem persists. Currently thery are doing diagnostics, but I don't really think they know what they are up against.

Do you think the AFC could have something to do with this?

Muchas Gracias!

SEGR/ORM Kit Builder's Thread

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