What to do with ccv?

SBosco · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2008 4:13 am

I am currently in the process of installing a custom intake in the CRD. I was wondering what the best solution would be for the CCV system. I really don't want the engine to keep sucking oil into the intake. I have heard of oil "Catch Cans" (basically collect the liquid oil in a reservoir), a filter, and the exhaust idea.

Any Others?

Is there any way to get around routing it into the intake altogether?

I have to come up with something quick, as I have to put it all back together tomorrow.

Uffe · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2008 7:31 am

SBosco wrote:

I am currently in the process of installing a custom intake in the CRD. I was wondering what the best solution would be for the CCV system. I really don't want the engine to keep sucking oil into the intake. I have heard of oil "Catch Cans" (basically collect the liquid oil in a reservoir), a filter, and the exhaust idea.

Any Others?

Is there any way to get around routing it into the intake altogether?

I have to come up with something quick, as I have to put it all back together tomorrow.

Elephant hose mod. Plug the turbo inlet pipe and route the CCV exhaust to the bottom of the engine bay. I would do the oil catch tank in a heartbeat if it were me.

MTB_TDI · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:12 am

One of the other ideas someone had was to run the oil back down to the oil pan. I've seen a picture of it but don't know how it worked.

SBosco · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2008 11:19 am

I did away with the original turbo inlet hose in favor of a silicone elbow from http://www.xo2racing.net/ . So plugging the hole isn't an issue. I was trying to avoid drilling into the tube where the MAF and pressure sensor are already located. It wouldn't be as big of a deal but I just don't have much room for another fitting on that tube and there is nothing downstream of it except the turbo elbow.

I like the idea of routing it back to the oil pan. MTB_TDI, where did you hear about that? Do you remember any details?

What about routing it back to the intake manifold? seems like it would be easier to do than the oil pan.

Will the elephant hose mod set off any CELs? I may just do that for now to get the jeep running and come up with a more permanent solution later.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2008 5:08 pm

routing it back to the oil pan is the Provent install recommendation - I don't think anyone's done it - about 1/2 the condensate is water - I'd rather just drain it out.

SBosco · **Posted:** Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:58 am

Finished the intake yesterday and seemed to be driving great for the first 15 minutes, but then it threw a CEL. I don't know if it was the elephant hose mod or what. I clamped a small soda bottle with some paper towels in it and some small holes in it onto the end of the hose for a temporary fix. Could it be the restriction caused by the holes in the bottle being too small or too few?

I also had to reroute some of the heater hoses to gain more room for the new larger silicone turbo elbow but don't think that would set off a CEL.

The new 3" diameter aluminum section I used already had a mount for the mass air sensor, and I braised a new fitting on for the pressure sensor. The aluminum MAF section came with 3 different diameter plastic inserts to closely match the original and maintain a similar intake air velocity. The inserts have a cutout for the MAF and I drilled another one for the pressure sensor.

The only other thing I can think of that would set off a CEL would be the positioning of the MAF section. It's right after a close diameter elbow, would that be a problem? If it helps I can post some pics of the setup.

Any insight/info/advice would be helpful, thanks.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:29 pm

Why not determine the exact DTC of the CEL, instead of guessing?

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

I installed a cheap Provent-like filter (3" PVC pipe, filled with plastic fiber for filter element). Had it on for 500 miles or so, pulled the cap off this morning to see if it was working, so far so good. Catching quite a bit of oil, inlet pipe (brand new 3/4 heater hose) was coated with oil on the inside, outlet hose was bone dry. Also pulled the MAP sensor, which looked pristine, no moisture at all. SEGR and cheap Provent work great.

As far as your CEL goes, I highly doubt it is related to the CCV set up you have. Likely your new intake has problems with the MAF or somewhere else.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Jun 21, 2008 7:33 pm

Now, tap into the turbo drain down near the inlet at the block, plumb that oil precipitate back into the crankcase: no more drain'n'dispose'n'top-off the engine oil level, eh.............

SBosco · **Posted:** Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:32 pm

I will definitely use a code scanner monday but I'm busy this weekend and it's bothering me until then because I can't figure out why it happened.

SBosco · **Posted:** Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:24 am

Have been kinda busy lately...started an internship 2 weeks ago at NYPA.

Anyway I used a code scanner almost 2 weeks ago and it threw a P0101, described here: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0101

I cleared the code, drove for about 15 minutes, shut the jeep off and no problem (no CEL). I was happy but then, on the next 25 minute drive, the CEL popped up again!!!

I clearly have to do something about this, but wanted everybody's thoughts/advice first.

I was thinking about what could be causing the P0101, and here's what I could come up with:

1.) the section of aluminum tube with the MAF and pressure sensor is right after a close radius elbow...maybe the MAF is seeing turbulent flow?

2.)I did an elephant hose type mod with a section of hose, soda bottle stuffed with paper towels and poked with holes...something not kosher about this setup?

3.)I utilized the factory forward facing air duct by hooking the new intake into it and removing the splash plate in front of it. After installing the intake, I drove the jeep around town for 15-20 minuites or so to ensure that everything was working properly and all was well (no CEL). Both times the CEL came up was on the highway...could the air duct be working as a type of ram-air at highway speeds and throwing off the MAF readings?

If you think it would help, I can post some pics.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:41 am

No - P0101 is a negative reading, meaning insufficient airflow indicated - either you left a rag in there, or the air filter is way dirty, or your ducting is collapsing under increased flow conditions, such as hiway rpm - could also be a major leak between MAF and turbo - I installed a Filter-Minder from an '06 Dodge Cummins in the airbox adjacent the IAT sensor for just such eventualities - shows yellow as things become restrictive.........................

SBosco · **Posted:** Mon Jul 07, 2008 8:23 am

Hmm, interesting. I'll have to check my hose clamps, fittings, etc. The filter is definitely brand new and flows quite well, and I know I haven't left any rags, etc inside.

The 3" MAF section came with plastic inserts that reduce the effective diameter of the inside of the tubing while still allowing the sensor to protrude. I tried the largest one because it was the closest to the factory inside diameter. Do you think I should try the next smaller one? If the inside diameter, and hence cross-sectional area, is larger than stock than the velocity would be reduced, could that be the source of the code?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jul 07, 2008 7:49 pm

SBosco wrote:

Hmm, interesting. I'll have to check my hose clamps, fittings, etc. The filter is definitely brand new and flows quite well, and I know I haven't left any rags, etc inside.

The 3" MAF section came with plastic inserts that reduce the effective diameter of the inside of the tubing while still allowing the sensor to protrude. I tried the largest one because it was the closest to the factory inside diameter. Do you think I should try the next smaller one? If the inside diameter, and hence cross-sectional area, is larger than stock than the velocity would be reduced, could that be the source of the code?

Any change in the diameter at the MAF will throw off its reading. It's calibrated to that diameter pipe.

I'm currently running a compressed air filter from Home Depot as a CCV filter. I took this one out of the other car I had it in for about 5000 miles. In that time, in that car, it caught maybe 1/4 tsp of brown goo. In the CRD it has caught 1/2 tsp in the first 50 miles. It's a pretty small filter, to keep air velocity high and therefore centrifugal separation high. I cut off the particulate filter that hangs down into the bowl, and just kept the top nut part of it, that retains the swirl mechanism. I figured the particulate part would clog too easily and obstruct the flow of crankcase gases. I'll check the outlet tube in another few miles to see how much is getting through.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jul 07, 2008 11:39 pm

Here are some links that I came across when building the CCV filter for my other car about 2 yrs ago.

http://heath.2gss.org/oilcatch.htm

http://cracknut.com/images/cars/evo/catchcan.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/rsrock/oil_catch_can

http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/ ... index.html

SBosco · **Posted:** Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:39 am

Quote:

Any change in the diameter at the MAF will throw off its reading. It's calibrated to that diameter pipe.

I'll have to break out the calipers and measure the exact diameter of the original MAF housing and compare it to the new one.

SBosco · **Posted:** Sun Jul 20, 2008 7:11 pm

I disassembled the intake to test for leaks and took a bunch of pictures while it was out. Maybe somebody can look at the pictures and setup to help diagnose the reason for the P0101 code.

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Sun Jul 20, 2008 7:22 pm

Looks like there are two things that may be your problem.
First, your Mass Air Flow Sensor looks to be at a different height from what it looks like (from stock to the airflow). If it is at different height it will affect the calibration.

Next on your EHM or crank case breather, you show it going into a pop bottle. Is there any way for the vapors to get out? The engine does have to breath through this hose or you will loose some oil seals somewhere.

SBosco · **Posted:** Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:31 am

Its difficult to tell from the pictures but there are holes in the soda bottle.

I am awaiting a catch can to become available at my local parts store as a more permament solution.

Thanks, that's a great point; I never noted the stock protrusion depth in the OE configuration. There are really no provisions on the aftermarket MAF section for changing the protrusion depth. If the height is significantly different from stock, than I may have to get creative. I would have to remove the plastic intermediate adapter plate and fabricate a slimmer one.

I am going on vacation thursday morning to Aruba and will take some measurements when I return.

Thanks again, everybody, for all of your help.

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:30 am

It’s hard to tell from the picture but if you are using that clear type of hose for the CCV vent, DON’T!! When it gets hot, it collapses. Especially at any bend (like the one in the front of the motor). (Don’t ask me how I know).
Also remember that the CCV hose (about ¾ inch ID) was a free flow into the intake of the turbo. Your soda bottle with the little holes in it, will it freely flow the same amount?
If your worried about a “Catch Can” setup, one could always take an old mayonnaise jar, and since it has a metal lid (or use a pickle jar), you can solder in two 5/8 copper fittings (3/4 inch OD) into the lid. Now you have an “In” and an “Out”. Now you can take the out hose and stuff it under the Jeep somewhere. No greasy mess.

What to do with ccv?

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