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 Post subject: EGR Replacement out of warranty
PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:31 am 
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Simple question- Has anybody had their EGR replaced out of warranty? If so, what was the cost? Will just "cleaning" the EGR and putting the SEGR on afterwards "fix" the issue from re-occuring? I was under the impresison that the SEGR actually moved it EGR mechanism on start-up.. which could trigger a CEL?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 10:35 am 
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Are you asking about the EGR valve or the Flow Control Valve :?: Sounds like the latter to me

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 11:52 am 
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With a SEGR install, the EGR is completely disconnected, so if it's stuck in an open position, the SEGR will not help anything. The AFC, disconnected by the SEGR, is re-connected with the transmission in Park, to ensure a smooth shutdown. So if you can "clean" the EGR valve to a state where it remains closed, and install the SEGR, you should not have to replace the EGR.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:19 pm 
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UFO wrote:
With a SEGR install, the EGR is completely disconnected, so if it's stuck in an open position, the SEGR will not help anything. The AFC, disconnected by the SEGR, is re-connected with the transmission in Park, to ensure a smooth shutdown. So if you can "clean" the EGR valve to a state where it remains closed, and install the SEGR, you should not have to replace the EGR.


The smooth shutdown issue is a total gimmick, we would be better of removing the FCV and getting rid of the slight restriction in the intake.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:29 pm 
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Has anyone thought of making a block-off plate the the EGR valve?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:43 pm 
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flash7210 wrote:
Has anyone thought of making a block-off plate the the EGR valve?
If you do, you will get a CEL. The MAF input to the ECM will no longer reflect the EGR flow if it's blocked.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:45 pm 
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UFO wrote:
flash7210 wrote:
Has anyone thought of making a block-off plate the the EGR valve?
If you do, you will get a CEL. The MAF input to the ECM will no longer reflect the EGR flow if it's blocked.


Doesn't matter if the MAF is disconntected 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:01 pm 
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How would you tell if your EGR is stuck in an open or closed positon? :evil:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:19 pm 
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hatchetman wrote:
How would you tell if your EGR is stuck in an open or closed positon? :evil:


One way is looking at Intake Air Temp with a scangauge II. Around town here if FL mine runs ~100-110F with ORM, more like 135-145F or more with EGR active.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 2:34 pm 
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Correct me if I'm wrong.. but i believe that if you throw codes P0299 (turbocharger underboost?) and P0401 this means the EGR is stuck open as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 4:24 pm 
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flash7210 wrote:
UFO wrote:
flash7210 wrote:
Has anyone thought of making a block-off plate the the EGR valve?
If you do, you will get a CEL. The MAF input to the ECM will no longer reflect the EGR flow if it's blocked.


Doesn't matter if the MAF is disconntected 8)
The whole idea is that the CEL should stay off. So that other ECM issues are flagged correctly. There are many ways of killing the EGR, but only one of them keeps the CEL away.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:08 pm 
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I have had both the flow control and egr valves replaced. The parts were about $300 for the EGR and about $600 for the flow control valve.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:52 pm 
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Not sure about FCV, but Hall's has the EGR's for sale at their site for $160.

Not sure if its the best price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-EG ... .m20.l1116

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 11:26 am 
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Grrrr.... :evil: :evil: :evil: Just took our '05 into the shop for it's 4th EGR valve - they will have to order the part and it's going to be over $600 to replace it.

I thought it would be covered under the 7/70 powertrain, but it is not (and we're at 55K or so), so I am NOT a happy camper. At least we got 20K miles out of the "new and improved" version of the valve. Previous to that, they were only lasting maybe 8 or 10K miles.

Chris

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 12:09 pm 
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honey_don't wrote:
hatchetman wrote:
How would you tell if your EGR is stuck in an open or closed positon? :evil:


One way is looking at Intake Air Temp with a scangauge II. Around town here if FL mine runs ~100-110F with ORM, more like 135-145F or more with EGR active.


Is there a way without using scangauge II?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 12:45 pm 
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willie wrote:

Is there a way without using scangauge II?


Yep at idle you can clearly hear that it has begun running roughly because it is being choked of air.

I doubt you would get a CEL if you block the EGR valve off. I have blocked mine of in my TDI and it doesn't give me a CEL and it has a MAF alright. Systems could be different, but where does the rumour of CEL with EGR blocked come from initially?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 2:13 pm 
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Uffe, I think your system is older / different from the ones here in the USA. Ours open the EGR, then look for a change in volume flowing through the MAF. If no decrease in flow (B/C the computer knows it wants the EGR open) then you get the CEL idiot light.

I had a 2001 VW TDI and it did exactly the same thing when I put a solid plate across the exhaust outlet. It also didn't work when I tried leaving the EGR connected, but the plumbing open to the air - wasn't enough of a change to satisfy the EPA-mandated nanny-check.

I can't imagine what the owners of the newer particulate-filter or urea diesels are having to deal with, in this area. I'm sure that if you fart near the engine, the CEL will light up because of the 'emissions' increase. :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 3:46 pm 
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MACKJ from down under claims it's not a rumor in this thread but it's a "two step" process :wink:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=32971

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 11:35 pm 
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I just bought a 2005 CRD last year with 36k on it. So far the check engine light (CEL) has more on time than the headlamps. Issues so far: Glow plug, CCV & turbo sensor mess, EGR, MAF.

EGR & MAF were covered under warranty even at 44,000 miles; here's how. After having the EGR replaced I kept the old part ($750 repair). 28 miles after leaving the dealer the CEL lit up. Disgusted I had the issue escalated to the service manager and Jeep regional guy. They pulled a warranty repair report that showed all Jeep factory repairs on the vehicle. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU GET THIS REPORT IF YOU ARE NOT THE ORIGINAL OWNER. It showed that a few months before I purchased the vehicle the EGR had been replaced. The part itself is covered by a 1-year warranty. Because I had the old part I was able to submit it for a refund (including labor). They then covered the MAF saying it was related to EGR, but I think mostly out of embarrassment.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 3:03 am 
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geordi wrote:
Uffe, I think your system is older / different from the ones here in the USA. Ours open the EGR, then look for a change in volume flowing through the MAF. If no decrease in flow (B/C the computer knows it wants the EGR open) then you get the CEL idiot light.

I had a 2001 VW TDI and it did exactly the same thing when I put a solid plate across the exhaust outlet. It also didn't work when I tried leaving the EGR connected, but the plumbing open to the air - wasn't enough of a change to satisfy the EPA-mandated nanny-check.

I can't imagine what the owners of the newer particulate-filter or urea diesels are having to deal with, in this area. I'm sure that if you fart near the engine, the CEL will light up because of the 'emissions' increase. :roll:


Ok geordi - I stand corrected :)

Maybe you can feel lucky not to have the particulate-filter, while I can feel lucky to not have either EGR or particulate filter :D

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