Yup, another happy customer with a P0299 and P0401 code!

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Sun Aug 10, 2008 12:40 am

Yeah! My monthly problem associated with my 05 CRD has finally arrived. Based upon the searches I just did, it looks like it's going to cost me a thousand dollars this time and may have to be done over and over and over again. Awesome! I can hardly wait.

The issue CEL: P0401 P0299

As if on schedule, the CEL came on a week ago in heavy traffic and instead of going to the stealership to have them charge me $100 to read and clear the codes, I went to Harbor Freight and paid $80 for a Cen-Tech to do it myself. I then logged on and read all sorts of very nasty reports about these codes.

From what I have read, it looks like the likely culprit is the $300 plastic toy EGR and/or the $600 Flow Control valve. Apparently, they should be replaced simultaneously or the problem will keep occurring. And from the threads I have read thus far, it looks like my 7/70 warranty is useless for this repair. It also appears this could be replaced constantly as long as I own the car.
Is all this true? Could I be so lucky?

BTW: I do have the elephant hose mod - which is supposed to help with this issue.

- Chris

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Aug 10, 2008 1:00 am

0299 is usually associated with blown turbo hoses

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

The plastic gears in the EGR flow control valve have been redesigned. You don't have to keep getting new ones, those are old threads that were before the redesign. Back then some folk were getting new valves every month.

The redesigned parts and the ULSD have stopped the rampant EGR failures. I am still on my first plastic geared EGR flow control valve. The ELM does nothing to prevent this, it just keeps cil out of your intake. The SEGR would help prevent this as it eliminates most of the usage of the EGR flow control valve and the EGR valve.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Sun Aug 10, 2008 7:38 pm

A stuck closed egr is actually a blessing if you can ignore the engine light. No more black smoke,less silicon in your oil sample and at least 2mpg extra.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Sun Aug 10, 2008 8:41 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

0299 is usually associated with blown turbo hoses

Thank you.

1) Is there a quick way to check the hose beyond visual inspection?
2) If they are blown, are there aftermarket hoses that last longer than a couple of years?
2) The searches I have done indicate some people who have had these 2 codes happen simultaneously as did mine. I wasn't sure why that would be & I'm still not.
3) I doubt hoses are covered under warranty either. If not, is this a fairly straightforward job?

- Chris

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Sun Aug 10, 2008 8:44 pm

Pablo wrote:

The plastic gears in the EGR flow control valve have been redesigned. You don't have to keep getting new ones, those are old threads that were before the redesign. Back then some folk were getting new valves every month.

The redesigned parts and the ULSD have stopped the rampant EGR failures. I am still on my first plastic geared EGR flow control valve. The ELM does nothing to prevent this, it just keeps cil out of your intake. The SEGR would help prevent this as it eliminates most of the usage of the EGR flow control valve and the EGR valve.

Thank you .

From what I was reading, the flow control valve and EGR were separate items. The EGR was $300 - although it looks like there may be aftermarket ones for $150 (?) whereas the FCV was apparently $600. What's the scoop on that?

- Chris

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Sun Aug 10, 2008 8:46 pm

onthehunt wrote:

A stuck closed egr is actually a blessing if you can ignore the engine light. No more black smoke,less silicon in your oil sample and at least 2mpg extra.

That may be so, but I have to keep it cleared so I can be ready for next month's CEL.

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

The EGR and flow control are separate items. Both parts were redesigned. The old flow control valve had the plastic control gears. The new one has metal gears. I am not sure what was changed with the EGR.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:03 am

Pablo wrote:

The EGR and flow control are separate items. Both parts were redesigned. The old flow control valve had the plastic control gears. The new one has metal gears. I am not sure what was changed with the EGR.

Any suggestions as to the cheapest way to replace both.....& how difficult for a moderately well equipped gravel driveway mechanic?

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:46 am

I found this in a thread about overheating (another ongoing problem).

onthehunt wrote:

Quote:
220 is too hot. Especially with an aluminum head. Find out where the temp sensor is located. Disconnect your egr with the orm mod and see if it helps.

Naturist wrote:
Quote:
Be aware, my friend, that (1) the purpose of EGR is to COOL the combustion temperature, so doing this mod will actually raise the engine temperature, and (2) doing the orm mod is highly illegal, and if caught, subject to hefty fines.

Is it possible my EGR is stuck closed and exacerbating the overheating problems?

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:55 am

Pablo wrote:

The plastic gears in the EGR flow control valve have been redesigned. You don't have to keep getting new ones, those are old threads that were before the redesign. Back then some folk were getting new valves every month.
The redesigned parts and the ULSD have stopped the rampant EGR failures. I am still on my first plastic geared EGR flow control valve. The ELM does nothing to prevent this, it just keeps cil out of your intake. The SEGR would help prevent this as it eliminates most of the usage of the EGR flow control valve and the EGR valve.

BTW: The thread I'm referring to was posted in April:

europachris wrote:

Quote:

Grrrr.... Just took our '05 into the shop for it's 4th EGR valve - they will have to order the part and it's going to be over $600 to replace it.
I thought it would be covered under the 7/70 powertrain, but it is not (and we're at 55K or so), so I am NOT a happy camper. At least we got 20K miles out of the "new and improved" version of the valve. Previous to that, they were only lasting maybe 8 or 10K miles.

mrkake · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:16 am

Not sure about the EGR and flow control valve, but my CAC hose was covered under warranty. For what that's worth.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:32 am

mrkake wrote:

Not sure about the EGR and flow control valve, but my CAC hose was covered under warranty. For what that's worth.

Thanks!
What's th CAC hose?

mrkake · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:39 am

Sorry

! That's what DC calls the turbo intercooler hose. They call it the Charge Air Cooler hose. Doesn't sound like that's your problem, but if it is it should be covered.

Pablo · **Joined:** Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:06 pm **Posts:** 1201

KeighJeigh wrote:

Pablo wrote:

The plastic gears in the EGR flow control valve have been redesigned. You don't have to keep getting new ones, those are old threads that were before the redesign. Back then some folk were getting new valves every month.
The redesigned parts and the ULSD have stopped the rampant EGR failures. I am still on my first plastic geared EGR flow control valve. The ELM does nothing to prevent this, it just keeps cil out of your intake. The SEGR would help prevent this as it eliminates most of the usage of the EGR flow control valve and the EGR valve.

BTW: The thread I'm referring to was posted in April:

europachris wrote:

Quote:

Grrrr.... Just took our '05 into the shop for it's 4th EGR valve - they will have to order the part and it's going to be over $600 to replace it.
I thought it would be covered under the 7/70 powertrain, but it is not (and we're at 55K or so), so I am NOT a happy camper. At least we got 20K miles out of the "new and improved" version of the valve. Previous to that, they were only lasting maybe 8 or 10K miles.

I would not get too concerned about that happening to you when you are still on the first one, as it does not mean you are going to have to keep replacing them like he is. It certainly will not be the case if you just do the segr and be done with it. First, I would make sure it is really your EGR/and or flow control valve and not something else. I would take it to a diesel mechanic. If you want to take them apart yourself, you can buy a manual from Chrysler (or find it online maybe). If the CAC hose is blown you will here lots of "Whoosing" sounds when you put the pedal down and the Jeep will be dog slow and likely spit smoke out the exhaust. There are two CAC hoses, one from the airbox to the innercooler and one from the innercooler to the engine intake. If you are having those symptoms, I would look at both of those hoses. Take them off and look for splits or ruptures. Then make sure they are put back on tight and try again.

For the fellow that is still having issues, I know a guy posted on here about a year ago that he got a new ECU computer in his CRD per Chrysler as they claimed that a bad ECU would keep eating EGR's/flow control valves. Sounded fishy to me, but I suppose it is plausible, as he said it stopped having issues for him. Maybe Chrysler knows something about this? If the dealer does not help, I would complain to Chrysler directly as his dealer is obviously just throwing parts at it and guessing.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 12:17 pm

I just dropped mine off at the Jeep dealership. I got the same codes P0299 and P401 while I was at LOST ECS. I still went on the trails though. The problem was on my 13.5 hr drive back home to Ft Lauderdale the engine was running so hot that I had to drive with the windows down and the heat on full blast. That was fun.

My KJ has 61K miles on it and it's the first time I had a failure so I guess I am lucky.

I have an extended service plan from CarMax so hopefully, they will cover the needed repair.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:13 pm

Thanks Pablo

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:04 pm

Um nope...no they didn't.

The AC condenser fan went out and they want $500 to remove my ARB to get to it. I told them that I would pick it up and return it with the bumper removed. Total quote: $1450

$770 P&L on the EGR

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:12 pm

Tell them to pack sand and put the SEGR on! You could even slip a plate on the connection to the EGR to guarantee the EGR is closed and not flowing!
No more CEL’s. Best part is, they would never know even if they fell over it.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:12 pm

JL Rockies wrote:

Um nope...no they didn't.

The AC condenser fan went out and they want $500 to remove my ARB to get to it. I told them that I would pick it up and return it with the bumper removed. Total quote: $1450

$770 P&L on the EGR

You do not need to remove the ARB bumber to get to that fan,the grill still comes off nicely and you have plenty of room to work with still.

Yup, another happy customer with a P0299 and P0401 code!

Who is online