CRD Exhaust Fitment

SBosco · **Posted:** Sun Aug 10, 2008 7:35 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

SBosco..

So the drone is gone and sound is not much different. Where did yoy find your MBRp cat back? How much work was it getting the original out ion one piece?

thanks
Joe

I never had a drone in my factory exhaust but scrambledKJ explained:

scrambledKJ wrote:

We towed from Atlanta to Ohio last year in a gas burner F150 with MBRp exhaust. One of the sides kep popping out of the rubber mount and rattling around. The drone at highway speed while towing was painful. I have never heard anything worse on a truck, except for the dodge boys who run straight pipes down here.

Travis

So I was concerned about the possibility of there being a drone with the MBRP exhaust; to much of my approval there was not a hint of drone to be heard, and fitment was perfect

I got mine from DAS Performance Auto in White Plains, New York (an auto parts store I used to work at during high school). However, you can get the same kit (stainless -> # S5510409) for $352 and free shipping from 4X4fantasy.com:

http://4x4fantasy.com/product_info.php?products_id=3155

However, they also offer an aluminized one (# S5510409) for $301 from the same website and the same free shipping:

http://4x4fantasy.com/product_info.php?products_id=3156

I jacked the liberty up on the passenger rear frame rail, just in front of the rear tire, which allowed the suspension to unload and increased the amount of wiggle room for the factory exhaust to fit through. All in all, the hardest part was getting the factory hangars to pop out of the rubber exhaust donuts. Even that only took a couple of minutes with the biggest flathead screwdriver I had and a pair of large channel lock pliers. The factory flange bolts came right off with a bit of penetrating lube (WD40 or the like). It really wasn't such a big deal getting the factory exhaust out in one piece though...few tilts this way and that way a jiggle and twist or two and it was out.

SBosco · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:18 am

gmctd wrote:

3/4" plumbing pipe - use the rebar to unplug the pipe between sessions - allows the pipe to penetrate the clay matrix, goes way smoother than pipe or rebar alone

How are you suggesting unplugging the 3/4" pipe with the rebar? Insert the rebar inside the pipe, or along side it?

Also, does the hammering (while still attached) have any effect on the integrity of the exhaust system and turbo? Has anybody had a problem with resulting damage to any parts, particularly the braided section and the turbo flange?

BTW, didn't get a chance to take pics last night...was preoccupied. Will snap some and post them as soon as I can.

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:27 am

My turbo and down-pipe is well-isolated from the rest of the exhaust system by an excellent flex-joint, there by the transmission.

De-kit the cat with the pipe till it's plugged, then rebar the plug of clay outta the pipe, then once again into the breach, me fine lads...............

SBosco · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:57 am

gmctd wrote:

My turbo and down-pipe is well-isolated from the rest of the exhaust system by an excellent flex-joint, there by the transmission.

De-kit the cat with the pipe till it's plugged, then rebar the plug of clay outta the pipe, then once again into the breach, me fine lads...............

So just bludgeon, unplug, and repeat until all pieces are small enough to be blown out by exhaust gasses? How long did it take you?

I was contemplating a holesaw for a more time and effort efficient method, what do you think?

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:08 am

Could try it, but the holesaw won't remove the sawhole plug, where the pipe will - long as it's clear, it acts like a round knife, or holesaw, then when the pipe is packed, out comes the plug when you withdraw the pipe - the soot-trap is short, so the pipe should cut thru in a couple bmfh strokes - btw, mine's not been field re-engineered: Texas is a federally-mandated DOT inspection state, to the letter of the law.............

SBosco · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:17 am

Sorry I didn't specify what kind of holesaw...I was thinking of using a Forstner bit so I wouldn't have the problem of the sawhole plug.

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:57 am

Yep - it's all in the specifications.............

SBosco · **Posted:** Sun Aug 17, 2008 11:21 am

Here are some pics of the exhaust:

Whole album here:
http://s336.photobucket.com/albums/n355/ciberbosco/MBRP%20Exhaust/

jinstall · **Posted:** Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:10 pm

How is your trailer wire harness run?

How short is the pipe with out the tip on it?

What does it sound like at 3200-3500 rpms?

SBosco · **Posted:** Mon Aug 18, 2008 2:39 pm

jinstall wrote:

How is your trailer wire harness run?

How short is the pipe with out the tip on it?

What does it sound like at 3200-3500 rpms?

The Jeep came with the tow package so the hitch and harness were installed from the factory so I really have not payed much attention to how it was run.

As per the length of the tailpipe, minus the tip, I never measured that but could if you would like that measurement. With the tip installed, it definitely doesn't stick out past the bumper. Let me know which measurement you would like (ie. rear hanger to exit, rear of coil spring to exit, distance to bumber, etc).

Soundwise, there is very little engine noise volume or tone difference between stock and MBRP. If anything the MBRP is a tad more throaty and about the same volume as stock. There is, however, a slight but noticeable whooshing sound made by the exhaust gasses flowing more freely out of the exhaust at higher RPMs.

jinstall · **Posted:** Tue Aug 19, 2008 1:14 am

I was just wondering if the tip is required to get past the bumper. Not a big fan of polished tips.

No in the photo I noticed that you still have what looks to be the factory body plug in the photo. The green ring behind the exaust pipe with no cable coming through.

Normally I drive between 3000-3500 rpm in the Jeep and I am worried about droning in the cabin. It is cool in the racecar when I have earplugs in but not in the Jeep.

SBosco · **Posted:** Tue Aug 19, 2008 1:10 pm

jinstall wrote:

I was just wondering if the tip is required to get past the bumper. Not a big fan of polished tips.

No in the photo I noticed that you still have what looks to be the factory body plug in the photo. The green ring behind the exaust pipe with no cable coming through.

Normally I drive between 3000-3500 rpm in the Jeep and I am worried about droning in the cabin. It is cool in the racecar when I have earplugs in but not in the Jeep.

You could always use high temperature brake caliper paint and paint the tip. Otherwise you could buy a different tip for $20 or so and sell the polished one on ebay or something.

At over 3000 RPMs, there is only a slight rumble from the CRD, definitely no audible drone though.

jinstall · **Posted:** Wed Aug 20, 2008 11:34 am

Thanks.

4x4_Fantasy · **Joined:** Mon Aug 18, 2008 3:37 pm **Posts:** 2

Thanks for quoting my site SBosco! I didnt even know about this site until I started getting customers browsing from here.

-Mike

SBosco · **Posted:** Sun Aug 24, 2008 11:01 pm

4x4_Fantasy wrote:

Thanks for quoting my site SBosco! I didnt even know about this site until I started getting customers browsing from here.

-Mike

Glad I could help Mike. Best of luck, I will look to do business with you in the future. It's nice to know there are still some gracious business people left out there.

~Steve

CRD Exhaust Fitment

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