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 Post subject: Optima red top battery just died
PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:34 pm 
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Today while driving my battery light and my throttle control light came on. I drove to the dealer then just before pulling onto the lot the abs light came on and the radio shut off. the service writer put a meter on the battery and it said 1 bad cell I need a new battery the dealer did not have one and the parts guy said they are going up to a 800 cold crank amp battery, we got one from car quest 140.00 bucks. Way to much but I was stuck what do you do with a dead vehicle. Anybody else had a problem with the red top battery? My crd is an 05 not very long for a battery of this caliber to last.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:49 pm 
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The Optimas made for the CRD's are a Chrysler speced battery built by Optima(Optima went by Chryslers specs),so they do not have the same quility as regular Optima's.


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 Post subject: Second that
PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:24 pm 
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I posted info on the differences a few months ago. You will need to massage your battery terminal clamps with pliers a bit to fit the real Optima.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:17 pm 
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Yep, my 06 Battery died about 9-12 months ago. Its got a lead acid in it that I picked from Autozone and make sure fit. Its 1000 amp (non-cold) and 800CCAs which is plenty enough for any start condition.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:29 pm 
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A standard lead acid battery works just fine.............till you try slope-groping and rock crawling, where the included vehicle angles far exceed those considered safe for a lead acid battery

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 Post subject: Lead Acid grows new life forms!
PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:37 pm 
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I don't miss cleaning my battery terminals, I don't have to with Optima :!: :!: :!: :D

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject: Had same issue last year
PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:55 pm 
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http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=24524&highlight=

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06 Jeep KJ CRD Sport full Mopar skids, front tow hooks, rear hitch shackle, Magnaflow muffler, Samco Sport CAC hoses, 02 Airbox mod, Unique series 42 steel wheels.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 12:03 am 
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Ok guys I just went up to my local lowes store for a special light bulb and on the way home the same two lights came on the throttle warning light and the battery light I drove home and shut it off and it was dead as a doornail. I then put my charger on switched it to 10 amps for a minute and it started up a little slow but it started. What do you guys think the problem could be? Nothing has been done to the vehicle accept the front end aligned the other day. Everything the same for the last 2 years it has been running great total miles to date are 83,000.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 1:10 am 
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Location: western pa
test charging system
go to car quest and get old battery& pay core charge
charge & test old battery
agm battery require diffent battey test


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:48 am 
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moto-scoot wrote:
test charging system
go to car quest and get old battery& pay core charge
charge & test old battery
agm battery require diffent battey test


I bet that battery is gone in someone beater by now. If battery goes dead with engine running, the charging system is not doing it's job.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:30 am 
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The mechanic checked the charging system and told me it was putting out 13.6 volts. I wonder why the electronic throttle control light is coming on with the battery light at the same time.


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 Post subject: 13.6 volts a bit shabby
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:40 am 
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14 -14.5 volts is more respectable.
For many years VW stuck to the 13 volt setting on their charging systems and the cars had a LOVE AFFAIR with jumper cables. When a lot of independent shops and VW owners replaced the voltage regulators with the industry standard 14V-14.5V the love affair with the jumper cables ended, then when the PIG HEAD ENGINEER who loved 13v drove off into the sunset, VW quietly changed their standard.
Here is the bad news, our voltage is controlled by a module and not a separate voltage regulator. I would hope the mechanic's volt meter is off.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:47 am 
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I am going to have to take it back in today and have them check it out again. I will pass on the info about the voltage regulation. Thanks a lot I do not have any drain on the system a least not that I know of. Ill report back later with the results.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 8:08 am 
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Could be the battery temp sensor has failed, causing low charging output - could be the alt has lost a rectifier, resulting in low output - in any case, have the charging system checked, as mentioned

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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