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Is not a good substitute for identifying the problem first. Swapping parts in an attempt to identify the issue can be expensive and frustrating if you don't luck out and find it on the first few attempts. As far as buying another ECM, you'll need a dealer DRB tool to set the VIN, injector classification codes, mileage and initialize the security SKIM interface if you have the Sentry anti-theft option. You'll also have to activate the A.C. and possibly cruise control if you have it. Replacing an ECM is not a simple swap operation unless you have an exact cloned version, i.e., something like an InMotion clone of your original ECM.
If you are 100% certain that the buzzing sound is from your solenoid on the fuel rail near the firewall and not the AFC valve, pulling the electrical connector to it to see if the low voltage problem disappears is a quick first step. To know if its the problem, you have to be monitoring the supply voltages with a voltmeter, preferrably a DVM. But first you need to locate the voltage supply line to the ECM, then the connection to both the fuel rail pressure valve and the fuel rail solenoid, so that you can monitor voltage. Before you start this phase, it's a good idea to check the supply voltage to the ECM, then the 5VDC supply voltages coming from the ECM to the fuel pressure sensor and fuel rail solenoid valve. If either of these 5DVC supply voltages are low, it can beither either a short in the wiring, sensor or a bad ECM, assuming the ECM has proper supply voltage to its main input from the ASD.
Using your FSM, look at the wiring diagrams on pages 8W-30-25,8W-30-30 and 8W-30-35.
With key on, measure the voltage to C2-1, C2-3 and C2-5. This should read the same as the voltage at your battery posts, which should be 12.5 VDC minimum. These 3 B+ inputs are fed by 3 different fuses. If voltage is missing at any of these inputs, check fuses 6, 16, and 26 first.
If all 3 of these 12V lines are good, then note the 5VDC supply line to the fuel rail pressure sensor on pin 3 (also ECM C1-86). Monitor this for 5vdc with your DVM with key on first and then while cranking.
Also note the fuel rail pressure solenoid on pin 2, (also ECM C1-4) for supply voltage. If either of these are below rated voltage, watch these same pins as you pull the electrical plugs. This should tell you whether you have a short in a sensor pulling down your voltage. This all assumes you measured your replacement battery voltage and it was at least 12.5 minimum, preferrably 13 VDC.
Something caused your system voltage low code, as well as the sensor low codes. It's either a low supply voltage or excessive drain on the 5VDC supply lines. Until you check the battery supply voltage to the ECM, you won't know if it's getting correct voltage to start with.
If you're uncomfortable performing voltage checks, get someone who can help that knows how and that has a DVM.
One last check. Did you or anyone else modify any wiring on this vehicle within the last month or so? Trailer hitch, segr wiring, sterero, any electrical consuming accessory or anything that would have altered or connected to the vehicle wiring? If so, you could have a different issue causing this problem.
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2005 LTD CRD RB1 NAV/Htd Leather seats/Amsoil EA filters
SunCoast Mega Trans & Billet TC/PML pan/Aux cooler
Fuel cooler/Lift Pump/10um Pri/Racor R490 2um Sec Fuel Filters
IronMan Lift/Shocks/Provent/Moog ball joints/ V6 Airbox/Fan/Hayden
Cobalt Boost/EGT/Oil/Trans/Volt gauges/Aeroturbine 2525
Yeti Hot Tune/Odessey 65/Samco's/Michelin Defenders
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That could result in bent valves and we have 16 in our 4 valve per cylinder engines 
Some have had problems with the alternator pulley lately, it's not just a simple pulley 
Also if you still have the original Optima Red Top they have been dying too. DC had Optima build a low end Red Top or us 