poor mans provent or rich mans EHM?

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Aug 22, 2008 1:48 pm

Very good - suggestion, if I misunderstood: leave the oem black hose connected to the CCV puck, as that is the hottest flow - connect the clear PVC tubing accordingly from there to complete the circuit

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2008 10:44 am

gmctd wrote:

Very good - suggestion, if I misunderstood: leave the oem black hose connected to the CCV puck, as that is the hottest flow - connect the clear PVC tubing accordingly from there to complete the circuit

Thanks. I'll switch it around. I have to take the airbox out again anyway....I think my passenger side motor mount is rattling.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:31 pm

Great work Chester!
I took the quick and easy way out. I'm still going to add a small section of clear tubing as a "viewing chamber" and I have a simply idea for a pressure relief valve I may add.

Here is the kit I put together:
* Although hose clamps are not needed in this application I'm messing around with some hand screw style hose clamps - partly due to my various injuries from the $)#*$ hose clamps that are standard on the car.
* Wire hose cages so I can bend the hose without kinking
* The 951 CVC can
* Zip ties
* Bracket (came with can)
* 3/4" tubing

I mounted it next to the tranny brains using a couple of zip ties. The bracket just slides over them. My biggest concern was easy access so I would be more inclined to check it often.

The unit just lifts out for draining.

Here is how I have the hoses routed. No kinking and no problem fitting anything together. They just lay across the top of everything. As long as they are lower than the highest object around them I figure I'm good to go.

MTB_TDI · **Posted:** Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:23 pm

Has anyone hooked up a clear line coming from the seperator back to the intake? If so, how does it look? I want to make sure this works well before I pop the money for it.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:16 pm

MTB_TDI wrote:

Has anyone hooked up a clear line coming from the seperator back to the intake? If so, how does it look? I want to make sure this works well before I pop the money for it.

Not yet. That is my next step....and then we'll have to wait a while. I kept the plastic jar packed with steel wool that I was using for the EHM - it was full of a black crud - so I can compare.

ccattie · **Posted:** Fri Sep 05, 2008 11:40 pm

How's everybody been makin out?
-c

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Sat Sep 06, 2008 12:28 pm

ccattie wrote:

How's everybody been makin out?
-c

I have clear lines on both sides of mine. I have a small amount of oily residue in the line from the CCV puck and nothing in the line going to the intake. I have seen some moisture condense in that line close to the filter after it's been running for a while, but not much. Just some mist on the hose.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Sep 06, 2008 12:48 pm

Heater hose will soak up oil vapor and get very soft, Hydraulic return line will work for years with no problem.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:07 am

warp2diesel wrote:

Heater hose will soak up oil vapor and get very soft, Hydraulic return line will work for years with no problem.

Yes, and I need to replace it.
I was originally looking for some nitrile lined hose but that is all they had at Schucks on the evening I was rushing to get this project completed.
Where do I get 3/4" hydraulic hose?

Thanks,
Chris

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Sep 09, 2008 6:04 am

Any place that makes hydraulic hoses should have the low pressure return line. Buying the steel wire reinforced 5000PSI rated stuff is overkill and you may injure your self on the wires sticking out on the ends.
Another way to do it right would include a PVC grade emissions hose from a professional Auto Parts store like NAPA or Car Quest. THEE Extra Sharp Pencil Bean Counters who buy for most of the discount Auto Parts stores will not stock it.
Also braided Tygon tubing from a Hardware Store or Home Depot or Lowe's. This option is cheap and will last up to five years before it gets stiff, shrinks and slides off the barbed fittings, so use clamps.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Wed Sep 10, 2008 4:41 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

Any place that makes hydraulic hoses should have the low pressure return line. Buying the steel wire reinforced 5000PSI rated stuff is overkill and you may injure your self on the wires sticking out on the ends.
Another way to do it right would include a PVC grade emissions hose from a professional Auto Parts store like NAPA or Car Quest. THEE Extra Sharp Pencil Bean Counters who buy for most of the discount Auto Parts stores will not stock it.
Also braided Tygon tubing from a Hardware Store or Home Depot or Lowe's. This option is cheap and will last up to five years before it gets stiff, shrinks and slides off the barbed fittings, so use clamps.

Thanks!

mackruss · **Posted:** Mon Sep 15, 2008 11:39 am

UFO wrote:

I used a 90 degree 3/4" hose barb to make the turn from the valve cover to the middle of the CCV body.

CCV body is a 1-1/2" T with bushing adapters and 3/4" hose barbs. Drain is 1/2" at bottom, with a ball valve.

The intake hose has a flexible support to keep it from collapsing.

UFO

Did you put steel wool inside your ccv?

UFO · **Posted:** Tue Sep 16, 2008 3:36 pm

^^^ No, I used a stainless pot scrubber, it's coarser but packed densely.

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Wed Sep 17, 2008 12:32 am

FWIW i used a pot scrubber as a coarse base in the canister and a
brillo pad at the top to make sure it is all filtered

mackruss · **Posted:** Wed Sep 17, 2008 3:33 am

When you say top do you mean at the outlet of your cannister?[/quote]

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Wed Sep 17, 2008 8:36 am

mack,

yes that is what i mean... should enter the side, drain at the bottom, out at the top.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:14 pm

Here is my link, finally got it done: http://picasaweb.google.com/warp2diesel ... #slideshow

Next I will connect the drain to send the oil back to the pan.

mackruss · **Posted:** Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:23 am

warp2diesel wrote:

Here is my link, finally got it done: http://picasaweb.google.com/warp2diesel ... #slideshow

Next I will connect the drain to send the oil back to the pan.

Warp

I'm keen on this contraption you made and have stalled buying the Provent because of the cost. I was also thinking of routing the oil
back to the oil sump but i'm not sure how difficult it is.

Any more pics of the seperator you made or can you describe what you used.

poor mans provent or rich mans EHM?

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