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 Post subject: Neutral Safety Switch
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 4:30 pm 
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I need to replace the neutral safety switch, can anyone tell me where it is? Not finding it in my factory service manual. A pic will be helpful. Thanks. :D

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:22 pm 
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The only ones I'm finding are for the manual transmission. (AutoZone, Advance Auto, NAPA, RockAuto, and a couple of Mopar sources).

Has anyone replaced their Neutral Safety Switch before.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:34 pm 
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mine might be bad... either that or a switch to tell when the clutch is pushed in. i can start the KJ while it's in gear without pushing in the clutch. i dont mind so much.. i actually like it so i can start it (while in neutral) without being in the drivers seat pushing the clutch. normally does it in 4lo but it does it all the time now. oh well maybe the dealer will run it into something and i can cash out for an ARB bumper :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:43 pm 
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I have a problem with my Jeep that it won't start sometimes. Dealer said it was the NSS, they wanted $895 to replace it, obviously I said NO and ran home. But I tried to start it today and it did start in neutral, but not right away. Dealer said I had to run through the gears to get it to start.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:46 pm 
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Okay I spent the last 30 min looking in the FSM for the 45RFE neutral safety switch,as far as I can tell it does not have one.If it does it is part of the shifter or it is the range selector switch inside the valve body,both are not serviceable(you need the whole part).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:50 pm 
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The dealer was going to charge me $400 in parts to replace the NSS. I thought it was outrageous for a simple NSS.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:58 pm 
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jeepkj02 wrote:
I have a problem with my Jeep that it won't start sometimes. Dealer said it was the NSS, they wanted $895 to replace it, obviously I said NO and ran home. But I tried to start it today and it did start in neutral, but not right away. Dealer said I had to run through the gears to get it to start.
Is your check engine light on? If so the range selector switch in the valve body went and that is not a cheap part.Though if the range selector switch is acting goofy it will not always throw a DTC and turn on the check engine light.

Quote:
TRANSMISSION RANGE
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) is part of
the solenoid module, which is mounted to the top of
the valve body inside the transmission.
The Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) has five
switch contact pins that:
† Determine shift lever position
† Supply ground to the Starter Relay in Park and
Neutral only.
† Supply +12 V to the backup lamps in Reverse
only.
The TRS also has an integrated temperature sensor
(thermistor) that communicates transmission
temperature to the TCM and PCM.
OPERATION
The Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) communicates
shift lever position to the TCM as a combination
of open and closed switches. Each shift lever
position has an assigned combination of switch states
(open/closed) that the TCM receives from four sense
circuits. The TCM interprets this information and
determines the appropriate transmission gear position
and shift schedule.
There are many possible combinations of open and
closed switches (codes). Seven of these possible codes
are related to gear position and five are recognized
as “between gear” codes. This results in many codes
which should never occur. These are called
“invalid” codes. An invalid code will result in a DTC,
and the TCM will then determine the shift lever
position based on pressure switch data. This allows
reasonably normal transmission operation with a
TRS failure.
GEAR C5 C4 C3 C2 C1
Park CL OP OP CL CL
Temp 1 CL OP OP CL OP
Reverse OP OP OP CL OP
Temp 2 OP OP CL CL OP
Neutral 1 OP OP CL CL CL
Neutral 2 OP CL CL CL CL
Temp 3 OP CL CL CL OP
Drive OP CL CL OP OP
Temp 4 OP CL OP OP OP
Manual 2 CL CL OP OP OP
Temp 5 CL OP OP OP OP
Manual 1 CL OP CL OP OP


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:06 pm 
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It have a P-0455 code, but that is from an unrelated problem...cracked vac hose.

I haven't noticed any problems with my transmission. The only problem is that sometimes the engine won't crank over. Dealer told me to run through the gears and at the same time turn the key to the run position. I have another problem, not sure if it is related, but I can remove the key from the lock cylinder while the engine is running.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:37 pm 
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Did some research and it doesn't seem to be the TR sensor. Many people on the Jeep and Dodge forums were experience transmission issues (not shifting properly, limp mode, etc..), but my transmission is fine....knock on wood. darn stealership stole $90 for a diagnosis fee of a "failing neutral safety switch". :evil:

Anyone have some ideas, symptoms:

Engine does not crank over at times
No engine light
Running through gears seems to help get it started, don't want to do that too many times, because it could hurt the tranny.
Before that I use to crawl underneath and hit the starter area/transmission tunnel.
Previously, replaced starter, didn't help.

I'm starting to really get frustrated with this Jeep. One day it is going to leave me stranded.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:39 pm 
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If you can take the key out while it's running, I'd check the ignition switch.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:50 pm 
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I agree with the ignition needs to be looked at if you can pull the key out while it's running.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:10 am 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
I agree with the ignition needs to be looked at if you can pull the key out while it's running.


Do you think that is related to the problem why my engine won't crank over sometimes.

How do you test the ignition switch?

Can someone with an 02/early 03 (with a 45RFE tranny) try to start your Jeep in neutral see if it will crank. Mine did start in Neutral, want to see if it can do that on all other KJ's.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 11:14 am 
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Mine starts in "N".


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 11:25 am 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Mine starts in "N".


That is good to know. My FSM says I must remove the lower shroud on the steering column to get to the ignition switch and lock cylinder. But my ratchet extension won't fit into the access hole. Does anyone know the socket size so I can get a 1/4" nut driver.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:25 pm 
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It doesnt take a socket, it takes a torx. I have a driver like a screw driver only its a torx. Idk what size it takes.

I start my Jeep in N fairly often.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 6:56 pm 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
It doesnt take a socket, it takes a torx. I have a driver like a screw driver only its a torx. Idk what size it takes.

I start my Jeep in N fairly often.


For future reference it takes T-15 torx. Thanks.

Is there an advantage in starting your Jeep in Neutral??

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:02 pm 
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jeepkj02 wrote:


Is there an advantage in starting your Jeep in Neutral??
No. Park is the same as "N" just the parking paw is engaged in the trans to prevent vehicle movement.

I know in the military hummers,the older versions,used a turbo400 auto tranny that didn't even have park,just R/N/D/2/1.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:02 pm 
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Dje Ryu wrote:
If you can take the key out while it's running, I'd check the ignition switch.


From the autozone website: Link

Quote:
To check the switch, gently wiggle the ignition key and connecting wires with the engine running. If the ignition cuts out or dies, the problem is located.


I did that and the engine didn't die. The part only costs $20, should I replace it anyways and see if it fixes the problem. Any other ideas...starter relay? Can someone provide me with a diagram of the ignition system on the Liberty? I'm running out of patience with the stupid Jeep. :x

_________________
2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject: Re: Neutral Safety Switch
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 3:17 pm 
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Does anyone have a wiring Diagram for the Neutral safety switch wires. I am going to just bypass the witch all together. Any reason why this would not be possible?? I would love a reply. Also If anyone could point me in the right direction to find a wire diagram for this part of the car I would be Grateful. Thanks

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Go check out the topic about mods to stock bumpers and grills and post what you have done or what you are thinking about doing!


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 4:17 am 
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jeepkj02 wrote:
Dje Ryu wrote:
If you can take the key out while it's running, I'd check the ignition switch.


From the autozone website: Link

Quote:
To check the switch, gently wiggle the ignition key and connecting wires with the engine running. If the ignition cuts out or dies, the problem is located.


I did that and the engine didn't die. The part only costs $20, should I replace it anyways and see if it fixes the problem. Any other ideas...starter relay? Can someone provide me with a diagram of the ignition system on the Liberty? I'm running out of patience with the stupid Jeep. :x


Reviving a slightly old post but here goes!

Remove the covers around the steering column with the male Torx as mentioned.
Then remove the ignition switch from the column...held on by a single smaller Torx screw....early models use a normal Torx screw while later models use a "security" Torx screw that require a driver with a hole down the center.

Inspect the actuator that operate the ignition switch...there are hundreds of posts about these actuators breaking and where to get new ones.

You can test the ignition switch by placing the ignition key in its normal slot to activate the SKIS system.... if you have one fitted and then turn the ignition switch with a small flat screwdriver.

You can swap the starter relay with an indentical-looking one next to it.

@Silverturbo:

Here is the link to circuit diagrams...courtesy of Sir Sam over in the CRD section: Download the Service manual nearest to your year, about 63Mb :D

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

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