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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 11:51 pm 
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Made my first 120 gallon batch with my expanded appleseed. Passed 3/27. Time to stock up for winter.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:52 am 
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UFO wrote:
Made my first 120 gallon batch with my expanded appleseed. Passed 3/27. Time to stock up for winter.

What blend are you running in the winter months?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 7:59 pm 
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Location: Somewhere between Heaven and Hell... But it is really hot here on Earth...
Depends on the weather. If it even THINKS about getting below 40*F... Run 50% mixed with dino. That will be good down to about 30 or so. You are better off switching to B20 in the winter, as the 80% dino will protect you from gelled fuel all the way down to 20 below IIRC. Gelled fuel sucks. Or rather, it doesn't suck at all. :lol: For a fun class experiment, make a bunch of different percentage samples (16 ounce water bottles are GREAT for this) and put them into the refrigerator and the freezer. My homebrewed fuel remained liquid in the refrigerator but not the freezer. But my fuel was based on WVO from soy oil. Some commercial B100 I had was based on chicken grease, and that turned into yellow jello in the refrigerator.

Thankfully, it was mixed 50% in my car at the time, b/c the overnight temps dropped to below 40!

If your fuel DOES gel, the solution is warmth. You need to warm up the entire car, including the fuel lines. Gelled fuel WILL NOT mix with diesel to suddenly "un gel" as far as I know. That is something that I should test... without using the car. :D


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 11:07 pm 
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UFO wrote:
Made my first 120 gallon batch with my expanded Appleseed. Passed 3/27. Time to stock up for winter.


How does that work? Do you react two tanks at the same time or do you have a big water heater tank? Maybe I should just build an Appleseed. I am good a plumbing and I wouldn't need a welder. I really like the Murphy's design though.

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 Post subject: Here's a cut and paste from my other thread
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 12:08 am 
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Through my training, I learned a few interesting facts about biodiesel. For the best performance, a blend of 20% biodiesel and 80% dino is considered the optimum mixture. Biodiesel will cause the turbo to run higher and lower EGT’s because the fuel burns cooler, and prolongs the life of the engine. The engine can be pushed harder when running biodiesel. Although biodiesel has a better burn, it still achieves a little lower mpg gains as compared to straight dino. The biodiesel viscosity is what causes the fuel to decrease. Dino is a higher BTU (10 - 12% increase) over biodiesel, however, biodiesel has higher levels of cetane than dino. Biodiesel has a higher flash point and burns slower. I learned that canola oil is the best oil to use for winter applications and is the choice oil by many who have used it due to it’s viscosity. B20 is the recommendation for any temperature below 50 degrees. Biodiesel causes the engine to run quieter and has high solvent properties.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 2:16 am 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
UFO wrote:
Made my first 120 gallon batch with my expanded appleseed. Passed 3/27. Time to stock up for winter.

What blend are you running in the winter months?
B50 works to 0F for me.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 2:18 am 
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mrkake wrote:
UFO wrote:
Made my first 120 gallon batch with my expanded Appleseed. Passed 3/27. Time to stock up for winter.


How does that work? Do you react two tanks at the same time or do you have a big water heater tank? Maybe I should just build an Appleseed. I am good a plumbing and I wouldn't need a welder. I really like the Murphy's design though.
I have plumbed two tanks in series, and 80 gallon and an 120 gallon. It works the same as any other reactor; it just looks more complicated.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 4:07 pm 
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Quote:
I have plumbed two tanks in series, and 80 gallon and an 120 gallon. It works the same as any other reactor; it just looks more complicated.


So do you use the 120 gal as a settling tank or just do one big batch at once?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:32 pm 
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mrkake wrote:
Quote:
I have plumbed two tanks in series, and 80 gallon and an 120 gallon. It works the same as any other reactor; it just looks more complicated.


So do you use the 120 gal as a settling tank or just do one big batch at once?
Both actually. When I react, both pumps are on, circulating from one to the other. There is not enough room to settle the whole batch in one tank, so I drain from both and pump the contents of the large tank into the wash barrel (the 120 is turned over, so all the glycerol drains, unlike the 80 gallon). Then the 80 gallon gets pumped into the 120 and resettled. Once glycerol is drained, the remainder goes into the wash tank as well.

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'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 3:00 am 
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UFO wrote:
mrkake wrote:
Quote:
I have plumbed two tanks in series, and 80 gallon and an 120 gallon. It works the same as any other reactor; it just looks more complicated.


So do you use the 120 gal as a settling tank or just do one big batch at once?
Both actually. When I react, both pumps are on, circulating from one to the other. There is not enough room to settle the whole batch in one tank, so I drain from both and pump the contents of the large tank into the wash barrel (the 120 is turned over, so all the glycerol drains, unlike the 80 gallon). Then the 80 gallon gets pumped into the 120 and resettled. Once glycerol is drained, the remainder goes into the wash tank as well.


Sounds awesome! I have got to get something put together soon. I have 400 gallons of oil waiting to be converted and the cubbies just keep coming in :lol: .

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