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 Post subject: Turbo blown
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:18 am 
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I posted a few weeks ago about a Low Oil Pressure light that came on while I was driving. I filled it up with oil and it was fine. When it happened the second time I decided to take it in to the dealer. They told me that a seal inside broke and was allowing oil to flood the turbo. It is all fixed (under warranty), but I am concerned it could happen again.

I guess my question now is why would this happen? I only have 26000 miles. I did haul three big loads of boulders from the mountains to my house. I have no mods.
Any ideas????

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 Post subject: Re: Turbo blown
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:20 am 
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pnorton wrote:
I posted a few weeks ago about a Low Oil Pressure light that came on while I was driving. I filled it up with oil and it was fine. When it happened the second time I decided to take it in to the dealer. They told me that a seal inside broke and was allowing oil to flood the turbo. It is all fixed (under warranty), but I am concerned it could happen again.

I guess my question now is why would this happen? I only have 26000 miles. I did haul three big loads of boulders from the mountains to my house. I have no mods.
Any ideas????


How long do you let it cool down before shutting the engine off?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:44 am 
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Wow, this is the first time I've heard about a turbo going out on a KJ. Well, maybe 2nd time, taking DarbyWalters turbo into account (nearly new, metal object got thrown through the intake and wrecked *.*).

As Sir Sam points out, do you let the turbo cool off at idle before shutting down the engine?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 2:34 am 
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Actually, I believe we've had more than just a couple over the past 3 years. My friends in Texas traded off their CRD about 2 years ago because the seals in their turbo went south. In their case, the root cause seems to have been a loose clamp allowing the discharge hose to blow off the turbo outlet and the rapid pressure transient that ensued.

I also remember one member who's turbo seals went out due to the vaccum caused by having the air filter caked over with winter road salt, courtesy of that wonderful factory air intake.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 8:19 pm 
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Blown_turbos++;

I had my Turbo replaced last year. I noticed oil all over the passenger side of the engine, and the turbo was covered in oil too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:37 pm 
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No blown turbo here but I would like to know the cost for a new turbo. Does anyone know?

Just want to know what I have to look forward to if mine goes out.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:41 pm 
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bigugly wrote:
No blown turbo here but I would like to know the cost for a new turbo. Does anyone know?

Just want to know what I have to look forward to if mine goes out.


I saw them for around $800.00 on one of the online mopar parts sites.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:41 pm 
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sorry guys about the post in triplet. The site was not responding when I posted and I did not think it went through. My mistake.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 11:03 pm 
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My problem was either a glow plug or intake valve keeper that broke off and went into the cyclinder...they replaced the whole engine including turbo/AC Compr...ect.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 11:24 pm 
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My turbo has been replaced to. I just noticed an oil leak on the passenger side of the engine and asked the dealer to check it out. I noticed this at about 20K miles. The turbo was replaced at 30K. They just told me that the seals had went out, but didn't give me a root cause as to why it went out. I did ask the dealership about the cost of the turbo. They did tell me that I didn't really want to know, but the figure they gave me was $2000.

Is insufficient turbo cool down a typical cause of oil seal failure?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 11:26 pm 
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My turbo has been replaced too. I just noticed an oil leak on the passenger side of the engine and asked the dealer to check it out. I noticed this at about 20K miles. The turbo was replaced at 30K. They just told me that the seals had went out, but didn't give me a root cause as to why it went out. I did ask the dealership about the cost of the turbo. They told me that I didn't really want to know, but the figure they gave was $2000 which was implied to be just for the part and not considering the labor cost of replacing it.

Is insufficient turbo cool down a typical cause of oil seal failure?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 9:59 am 
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I let it cool down a long time if I travel far or tow a lot 10 - 15 min. If I travel around town I let it rest for 1 min or less. Now, my wife probably just shuts it off, but she doesn't like to drive it so that doesn't happen very much. My air filter was not new but it was in no way caked with debris or dirt.

Would hauling a huge load of boulders 60 miles at 65 mph do something like this. My concern is will this happen again.

On a side note, I also drive a turbo charged mazda CX-7, do I need to let that cool down also (I don't know cars much, I do body work).

Thanks, Peter

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 10:21 am 
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There is the possibility of dealers mis-diagnosing the turbo failures.

Oil running down the side of the engine block doesn't mean the turbo is bad.
It just means that the oil drain from the turbo is leaking (bad gasket?)
which has been witnessed on several CRDs.

Oil inside the turbo boost hoses and I-cooler doesn't mean a bad turbo
either. Every CRD made for sale in the US has this and it comes from the
CCV. Its not really a good thing either. Only way to completely eliminate it
is with the EHM and the oily residue left in the hoses and I-cooler can be
very difficult to clean.

A bad turbo will have worn out bearings inside. This can be checked by
removing the turbo outlet (boost) hose and trying to wiggle the impeller
shaft. Any kind of wiggle or excessive end-play means the bearings are worn.
The wiggle and end-play will cause the seal around the shaft to wear out
prematurely. When the seal wears out, oil will get sucked into the hoses, I-
cooler and intake. There will also be noticable loss of engine oil on the dip-
stick.

Why do we allow our turbos to cool down before shutting off the engine?
Because the engine supplies the oil that lubricates and cools the turbo.
Immediatly shutting down the engine after a long, hard run cuts off the oil
supply to very hot and fast spinning turbo. Thus promoting early bearing
failure.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 10:56 am 
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I was low 2 qts of oil and the hoses were full of oil. I didn't take it apart to wiggle the shaft, the dealer did that. It could be misdiagnosed but I don't know. Does anybody want to do the EHM for me in Utah :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 11:09 am 
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flash7210 wrote:
There is the possibility of dealers mis-diagnosing the turbo failures.

Oil running down the side of the engine block doesn't mean the turbo is bad.
It just means that the oil drain from the turbo is leaking (bad gasket?)
which has been witnessed on several CRDs.

Oil inside the turbo boost hoses and I-cooler doesn't mean a bad turbo
either. Every CRD made for sale in the US has this and it comes from the
CCV. Its not really a good thing either. Only way to completely eliminate it
is with the EHM and the oily residue left in the hoses and I-cooler can be
very difficult to clean.

A bad turbo will have worn out bearings inside. This can be checked by
removing the turbo outlet (boost) hose and trying to wiggle the impeller
shaft. Any kind of wiggle or excessive end-play means the bearings are worn.
The wiggle and end-play will cause the seal around the shaft to wear out
prematurely. When the seal wears out, oil will get sucked into the hoses, I-
cooler and intake. There will also be noticable loss of engine oil on the dip-
stick.

Why do we allow our turbos to cool down before shutting off the engine?
Because the engine supplies the oil that lubricates and cools the turbo.
Immediatly shutting down the engine after a long, hard run cuts off the oil
supply to very hot and fast spinning turbo. Thus promoting early bearing
failure.


X2 what flash7210 said. Also many turbo Chargers get replaced under warranty because it has a high dollar return to the dealer. Any tech can simply say that the turbo is bad if there is an oil leak and no one is going to say differently because they generally do no further testing of the unit. Most CRD owners are more than happy to get a brand new turbo so everybody wins except DCX. Once the thing is out of warranty however everyone should get definitive proof that the problem is indeed the turbo and not just an oil hose.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 11:44 am 
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There are a couple of them on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-LIB ... enameZWDVW

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