I installed a Saiko catch can almost two months ago and hose that fed back into the turbo had a slight kink in it, and i figured this hindered some of the flow of the CCV system. I installed an elbow at the location of the kink. I also disconnected the hose off of the CCV puck so that I could wipe around it. Upon doing this, I had a fair amount of oil start streaming out of the CCV puck and get on top of the engine. I wiped it the best I could, but didn't get all of it. I did empty the catch can and it had 2-3 ounces of oil contaminated water.

Upon driving the Jeep last night, I had some major oil smoke. At first, I thought I was burning off the little bit that I couldn't wipe off. I realized something was pretty wrong when smoke was coming from the front, the sides and the back of the vehicle. I got it back home and let it set for the night. I didn't get a chance to look at until late afternoon. The engine is covered with oil, but seems to be mostly on the turbo side, some managed to get on the front, and the engine skid plate is covered. The underside is covered everywhere. I'm sure that a good part of this from the moving parts slinging it all over the engine and the wind distributing it underneath. I did check the dipstick today and there was barely oil on it. I also had a few puddles of oil under it.

My turbo was replaced at 30K miles because of a leak. The said the seals were bad. I don't know. I had just noticed a trickle of a leak on the side of the engine at that time.

Is it possible for the turbo supply or return line to catastrpically fail? Is there anything else that could fail and allow a sudden major loss of oil? I figure if it was a seal or something, I would have noticed the leak during oil changes and it would probably have been slow. I did have a little misting on tip from the CCV leaking. This wasn't increased after the incident last night. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Kevin

I just had the pressure tube to the turbo replaced because it started leaking at the fitting to the block. The mess it made blew back on the trailer I was towing. The whole front of the trailer and down both sides to the fenders was covered with black oil. Took alot of spray-nine to clean up the trailer.

_________________
2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

I've also had an oil cooler gasket blow (in my case oil/water - but I think oil to air is possible)
and an oil filter seperate at the crimp.

_________________
2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

You will have to identify where the oil is coming from. Add enough oil to prevent it running dry, start it up and see where the failure is. Areas to look at primarily are the turbo feed and return lines, loose oil filter, blown front main seal and possibly cracked block or pan although this one might be a stretch. A blown main seal would probably not be source of major oil loss either. I'm sorry to hear about your troubles but it is probably something simple.

PS. wear safety glasses because oil in the eyes hurts.

_________________
Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

Did your trailer look like this?



I am dealing with the same problem in my FL to UT trip; I noticed it in NE. I went to a NAPA and bought 4 quarts of 0W40 immediately put a quart in and then about another half when I stopped again 200 miles later.

It still drives fine but the Uhaul people are going to be pissed when they see the trailer. My choices are limited with everything I own attached to my Jeep so I have to get to SLC before I can have i checked out.

At first I thought the jerks who changed my oil didn't tighten the filter all the way since it was coated black and it was dripping off there onto the ground. Upon further inspection, I see the source is above the filter about midway up the pass side of the engine.

I am driving 10 mph below the 75 MPH posted limit on I 80 much to the delight of other drivers.

_________________
2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

if ANY of you with major oil leaks occurred in below freezing temps AND you have a EHM or something similar which directs oil outside of the relative warmth of the engine compartment you NEED to check for obstructions in your CCV hoses! Primarily ICE. Water vapor is present at the CCV and will freeze solid if not drained properly when hoses are routed.

Pardon me for rambling if this has no significance to you.

_________________
Jetta TDI '01
Liberty CRD '06
Kubota B2910 '00

I originally started this thread and failed to follow up. I apologize for that. The advice you give is warranted. I installed a Saiko catch can using reinforced vinyl hose from Lowes...took the recommendation of others to use something sturdy and clear for monitoring. It did have a small kink in it that I thought would work out over time. This didn't seem to impede the flow of vapors, but I decided to place a plastic elbow at the location of the kink to ensure it wouldn't be a problem.

Upon putting that elbow there, I then developed a major oil leak, that would coat a trailer like the picture above. The entire underside of the Jeep was covered. I had the Jeep scheduled for a balljoint replacement with a local mechanic and asked him for assistance to traciing the leak. It turns out that the molded plastic elbow (intended for use with heater hoses, good temperature resistance, right?) had some flashing in it and wasn't open. So, the engine would build pressure and blow the oil out of somewhere. I haven't quite figured out where. The mechanic had the engine running and pulled the oil dipstick only to have oil start spraying out.

I don't know about you JL Rockies, but all of my oil was gathering on the engine skidplate. The thing was plum full. I'm not exactly sure of where the oil is coming from on the engine. I did have a little on the front of the engine from it being slung by the accessories. There was very little on the sides of the engine. All of it is from the skidplate and to the rear of the engine. From what I've read in the full service manual, the engine seems to have some sort of pop-off valve. I've tried figuring out where this would be based on the parts manual. I have trouble translating what I see in the schematics to the actual 3-D object. With the accessories on the engine, I was never able to see a port from which all of the oil would be spraying from. I'm assuming this valve is to guard against overfilling the engine with oil and it might prevent blowing crank seals. From what it can tell this pressure relief valve, looks like it's somewhere in the front passenger side area of the oil pan, but it's not obvious in the picture where this thing exits the engine. Based on the picture, it doesn't seem like it does, but having a pressure relief that stays within the engine doesn't necessarily make sense.

I did top the oil level off. Seeing how I was terrified to drive it, I didn't start the engine for a few days. The oil level would actually go from being on the upper full line to about a quarter inch below the add line. There have been others who have had "obstructions" in the crank case ventilation before and didn't report the oil loss I saw or you saw.

So...looking for an obstruction in the ventilation system is a good call...and probably the cheapest fix you'll find.

I originally started this thread and failed to follow up. I apologize for that. The advice you give is warranted. I installed a Saiko catch can using reinforced vinyl hose from Lowes...took the recommendation of others to use something sturdy and clear for monitoring. It did have a small kink in it that I thought would work out over time. This didn't seem to impede the flow of vapors, but I decided to place a plastic elbow at the location of the kink to ensure it wouldn't be a problem.

Upon putting that elbow there, I then developed a major oil leak, that would coat a trailer like the picture above. The entire underside of the Jeep was covered. I had the Jeep scheduled for a balljoint replacement with a local mechanic and asked him for assistance to traciing the leak. It turns out that the molded plastic elbow (intended for use with heater hoses, good temperature resistance, right?) had some flashing in it and wasn't open. So, the engine would build pressure and blow the oil out of somewhere. I haven't quite figured out where. The mechanic had the engine running and pulled the oil dipstick only to have oil start spraying out.

I don't know about you JL Rockies, but all of my oil was gathering on the engine skidplate. The thing was plum full. I'm not exactly sure of where the oil is coming from on the engine. I did have a little on the front of the engine from it being slung by the accessories. There was very little on the sides of the engine. All of it is from the skidplate and to the rear of the engine. From what I've read in the full service manual, the engine seems to have some sort of pop-off valve. I've tried figuring out where this would be based on the parts manual. I have trouble translating what I see in the schematics to the actual 3-D object. With the accessories on the engine, I was never able to see a port from which all of the oil would be spraying from. I'm assuming this valve is to guard against overfilling the engine with oil and it might prevent blowing crank seals. From what it can tell this pressure relief valve, looks like it's somewhere in the front passenger side area of the oil pan, but it's not obvious in the picture where this thing exits the engine. Based on the picture, it doesn't seem like it does, but having a pressure relief that stays within the engine doesn't necessarily make sense.

I did top the oil level off. Seeing how I was terrified to drive it, I didn't start the engine for a few days. The oil level would actually go from being on the upper full line to about a quarter inch below the add line. There have been others who have had "obstructions" in the crank case ventilation before and didn't report the oil loss I saw or you saw.

So...looking for an obstruction in the ventilation system is a good call...and probably the cheapest fix you'll find. Good luck.

it has been written about somewhere about the hard tube between the engine block and turbo. The tubing seal at the engine block has been known to cause some issues. IIRC, a post was written about the seal being installed incorrectly possibly backwards causing a leak. By what you are describing oil in the skid plate and right side of engine this seems about the location.

_________________
Jetta TDI '01
Liberty CRD '06
Kubota B2910 '00

Need to ensure the CCV outlet flow-path is not blocked at some point in your system - plug that path and engine sump oil will find as many exits as possible under increased blowby-induced crankcase pressure - best thing at this point is to wash the engine down with 'zone-type engine degreaser\cleaner and flush with hot water from the bottom spigot on your home water-heater - actual leak-point(s) will be much more evident on a shiny-clean engine - best thing about 'zone's cleaner is that it turns white when flushed with water, such that yer neighbors won't call EPA vis a vis the nasty sludge yer flushin' down the sewers

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Yep and down both sides, at least my trailer was already black.
spray nine from home depot will clean it up. The tube cost $68 and took 2 days to get to dealer. mine was covered by extended warrenty but I end up paying more than it cost to do myself to CMA on turbo later. All is well now but had to take the engine/trans skid off to flush clean.

_________________
2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

If you are "topping off" your oil you may be overfilling it which would be the major cause of your problem. When I change my oil and refill with the required amount, the "I" in the "MIN" mark on the stick is actually my full mark. Also, your cheapest fix might be to hook the system back up the way it was designed. Millions of other diesel vehicles on the road use the same system.

In his defense, go ask the owners on tdiclub, and the gent with DieselToyz in San Antonio doing CRD conversions on Wranglers and Toyota pickups, how well our CCV and EGR system work "as designed". If the intent was simply to keep some bureaucrat at the EPA happy, and eventually force the owner at some point to have the intake manifold and head pulled off to clean out all that black PBJ gunk so the engine could breathe, well then it does work pretty good as designed.

OTOH, THIS is why oldnavy and others, with prior experience rigging up similar CCV systems on TDI's and other diesels, REPEATEDLY stressed that you had to be certain there were no obstructions to flow and to design it such that there was minimum chance of moisture freezing and blocking the lines in cold weather, and/or provide a means of pressure/vacuum relief - this is an excellent first-hand example of how pressure buildup from a clogged CCV CAN and WILL blow out oil seals on an engine.

In his defense again, he was trying to correct a potential obstruction by installing the elbow - he didn't realize that the elbow's manufacturer had screwed him by leaving excess material inside the piece that blocked off flow.

This is also an example of why I spent the extra money to install a Provent with built-in pressure relief and vacuum breaker valves.

_________________
Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

In my defense, go to thedieselstop.com and talk to people who have hundreds of thousands of miles on their diesel engines with no trouble with this exact set-up. I'm sure if you pulled the intake off these it would show evidence of the ccv, but some chug along to 500k + with no problem. I have read about the problems with the VW TDI. Time will tell if ours will be the same. So far, it hasn't been a problem, and if I remember some here have 100k + stock.

Does your system still blow oil after removing the flashing from the plastic elbow?

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

...forgot to add that.

The oil leaking/blowing stopped after the flashing was removed. I periodically check the oil level and it's stayed the same.

In practice, I generally aim for the half way point of the "good zone" on the dipstick. In the particular instance when the plug was there, the oil level leaked down while the Jeep sat for a few days.

GMCTD..."the pop-off valve" thing...is there one? From what I was able to read, there is some system like this. I figure someone who is a mechanic could better confirm or deny the exisitence.

The thing that troubles me is that I know where a gallon of oil eventually went. However, I still have no idea where it came from. I just know it originated from somewhere on the bottom of the engine. Drain plug and filter were in good shape...still same state before leak actually since I haven't had a chance to change the oil.

NOTE TO SELF: always check molded parts before assembly...can save some headaches.

Again: thoroughly clean remains of the recent toxic-spill from the engine, or you won't soon find evidence of any incurred damage, such as a blown seal(s), which will continue to slow leak

The CCV puck is valved for pressure (pop-off) and vacuum relief - long as that doesn't freeze, or someone doesn't defeat that purpose, it should vent thru the tube to the turbo inlet - I'd say it's prolly vented to +/- 10"H2O wrt Baro, which would be ~1/3psia either way

Provent and Racor CCV cannisters are also valved in similar manner - likely, there are others I haven't heard of

~27"H2O = ~2"HG = ~1psi

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

I have no mods and I did make it to SLC, UT.

_________________
2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

retmil46...I didn't notice your post earlier. Thanks for coming to my defense.

Is it any wonder I waited so long to post a follow-up response? I don't know what it is lately. People have this angst or something that they have to take out on someone else. I just thought I'd share my experience and what the problem turned out to be since someone else may be having a similar issue. I'm not trying to start a raging debate.

[/quote]Again: thoroughly clean remains of the recent toxic-spill from the engine, or you won't soon find evidence of any incurred damage, such as a blown seal(s), which will continue to slow leak [/quote]

Understood.

However, the only oil on top of the engine is there from me nervously trying to refill the dang thing. I lost 2-3 quarts of oil in the span of a 5 mile drive. It didn't come from the oil dipstick tube. It didn't come from the CCV puck. It didn't come from anywhere on top of the engine. All of the oil came from somewhere on the bottom of the engine and drained onto the skidplate and then would leave a sizable puddle in the driveway. That sound dampening padding can easily absorb a quart. Since the flashing from the elbow has been removed, no extra external oil. Oil level is remaining relatively constant.

I originally thought the oil was coming from the front seal. There was a bit of black under the crankshaft pulley. I wiped the excess oil away and waited a couple of days for it to leak more. No more came out. It turns out that the black stuff I saw was actually sealant from the timing belt cover that had seeped out probably when the engine was first assembled. Before getting the Jeep to a mechanic, I prepared for the worst and had ordered a new front seal, a timing belt, and associated idler pulleys to have on hand in the event that was the issue...I figure I'd have them for the future when they do need to be changed (currently at 60K miles). The oil pan was well covered, but there wasn't sufficient evidence to show that it was coming from a leaky gasket. I haven't seen oil seeping in the engine/transmission junction either...yet.

So if anyone would like to take 5 minutes and indulge me and take a look at the 2006 KJ service manual...Chapter 9, page 1668 entitled "Vapor-Oil Pressure Relief." What's that for? Is it strictly internal? Does it vent outside of the engine in any way? I'm not asking to be jerk. I'm asking because I don't know. The manual has a picture, it has some words, but it's pretty light on explanation. I thought I'd try to solicit the advice of an expert again, because I'm smart enough to know that I'm not one.

Thanks in advance for your insight.

Fairly certain that sez "Valve - oil pressure relief" - that's the regulator that sets max engine oil pressure, what with the gear-type engine oil pump being driven off the front of the crankshaft

Only vapor-pressure relief is spelled CCV

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go