I want to go ahead and install the Huco diaphragm pump next to the tank but would prefer not to rip up my rear carpets to wire it.

Can I wire it from the relay box down along the fuel lines perhaps with a thicker guage wire.

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

The seat removal was not very difficult.
The plug in the floor will allow you to place the wire right to the pump.
I do not like 'Lektricity near fuel lines except when necessary, even diesel.

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

Considering your locale and the type of roads(?) the little mule must needs accomodate, I would be exceeding leery of running power wiring back along, below and underneath the floorpan to a critical device connected to a fuel source - much more secure and reliable to pop the carpet and use the wiring so thoughtfully provided by the good folks at DCJ, aamopo.................

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

It's not 'rip, more like unbolt, pull back, wire-up, roll-back, re-bolt, and rock'n'roll.

Somewhere in that thread on the lift pump you'll see the links to pictures I took of the process. It's a Saturday afternoon job (nice weather, cold beer).

Doesn't get any better...

Mark

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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Okay save me some research time and tell me do i have to buy a new connector or can i run the wire from the existing connector by splicing it.

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

Okay save me some research time and tell me do i have to buy a new connector or can i run the wire from the existing connector by splicing it.


The ground bolts to a hole in the crossways frame member right by the plug. You'll need one pin to put in the existing connector under the seat. I don't remember if it's a male or female pin thought The 2 new wires can be inserted into the existing sheathed harness and through the floor without removing it. I'm not sure if anyone was able to pinpoint the part number for just the pins or not. Several bought the whole gasser harness then ended up using just the 2 needed wires out of it and passed the extra wires/pins along. That's how I got mine and I have a couple left over. I don't have enough to do a "in tank mod" but do have what you'll need for a external pump.
Determine the PIN GENDER, NOT THE CONNECTOR BODY and I can put one in a envelope for you. PM mail me with your info. I can look at my old unit later and determine what pin you need.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

I just stripped off about 10mm/3/8" of insulation, wrapped the wire to the pump around the power wire and soldered it. Then I wrapped it with good tape. For the ground, I found a spot under the seat, put an eyelet on the end of the ground wire, applied electrical grease to the eyelet and attached it to a seat support with a screw.
Works

I would have preferred to use the pin trick Joe wrote about, but I had to get it done on a late Sunday afternoon.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

First off, I agree that using the factory harness under the rear seat is preferable - both from the aspect of keeping everything inside the cab and a shorter wiring run. But....

He mentioned running the wire along the fuel lines back to the pump. With how the fuel lines are routed, and especially if he has skid plates installed - if he gets in terrain rough enough he has to worry about tearing up the metal fuel lines, lord help him!! IMHO, in that scenario he's taking his CRD where it has no business going to begin with.

I rigged up my Kennedy lift pump way back when, before we tumbled to the fact that we already had the power circuit and wiring ran back under the rear seat. I tapped off of fuse 25 in the dash panel, ran the wire thru the firewall at the rubber plug where a clutch is fitted on the manual version, then ran the wire back along the fuel lines to where I had the pump mounted.

Never had any problems or issues with it, but then my beast sees all road use. IMHO, using the harness under the rear seat is still preferable - for my needs, since it's already installed and working, just haven't seen the necessity to take the time and trouble to swap the wiring around.

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

No i won't be hitting the terrain you describing although last week i survived 7 minutes in my truck with a tornado flying overhead throwing trees and debris for miles. Only way to get home was to shove her in to 4 wheel
and drive over the trees lying in the road but even that didn't rip out my fuel lines.

So it's pretty simple to run a wire from the relay box and insulate it all the way to the pump. Now do i need to drill holes to fit the pump bracket and do i cut the existing fuel lines with a hacksaw.

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

You don't need a hack saw, knife will do, better yet, use a fuel hose and clamps and do away with the plastic hose.
Before you start drilling and screwing, look at the pre-tapped metric weld nuts already in the frame back by the tank.
Here is a photo set showing my pump mounted on an existing tapped hole: http://picasaweb.google.com/warp2diesel ... m2KAF5CQRQ

Simple is better

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I was going to cut the metal fuel pipe that runs along the frame and fit the pump or is that not a metal fuel pipe like i thought it was.

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

Actually, just forward of the tank there's a quick connect coupling in both the supply and return lines - 3/8" for supply, 5/16" in return. Coming from the tank it's plastic hose, transitions to metal lines at the quick connects.

If you can get replacement quick connects at an auto parts store, then you can plumb in the pump simply by undoing the supply line quick connect, and plugging in the lines to and from the pump.

What I believe they were talking about in getting rid of the plastic lines from the fuel tank, was dropping the fuel tank out of the vehicle, and replacing the plastic lines coming off the top of the tank with rubber fuel line to at least the pump.

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Just need to do the supply line - could fit the aux pump into that scheme, entailing only one patch.......................

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

I have just lifted the rear carpet by loosening the trim only and have exposed a loom of wiring. I can see a thicker blue wire with orange stripes and not a green with red as mentioned in " where's your lift pump".

Can i use this wire for the live, it feeds through a grommet and i should be able to spline and solder if it is the correct one to use.

Any help thanks.

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

Use a test light or one improvised from a 12 volt bulb. Put one end on the suspect wire and the other on ground. The test light should light nup when the key is on and run for about 25 seconds if the engine is not started. Another hint is that the wire does not connect with another wire on the mating plug.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I'm unsure at the moment as to where to cut the fuel pipe to connect to the fuel pump. Close inspection reveals some kind of a connector fitting from the fuel pipe which leads to a braided pipe to the tank.

Must i loosen at the connector or where do i cut the line, it's a bit hard to see on the postings exactly where to cut.

Sorry to dredge up something that has already been done and dusted.

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )