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 Post subject: how long does it take to install a Day star lift
PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:06 am 
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just wondering if i can do this my self

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:13 am 
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If you have the correct spring compressors for the front coils it's not hard at all.I't would take me less then 2 hours,though I've done many KJ lifts,4-6 hours for a beginer.Best to take the front strut assemblies off and that them to a shop and have them disassemble/re-assemble them which is usually about $10-$20 per strut.


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 Post subject: Re: how long does it take to install a Day star lift
PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:14 am 
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maddawg wrote:
just wondering if i can do this my self


just depends on what tools etc you have really
Not hard at all to do, just unbolting / I would just go get someone to compress the springs and install the Daystar in them and then you can just rebolt in. Takes more time to remove the battery than to remove one strut assembly, I can have the right side off while another person is taking the battery / battery tray etc. out :lol:
I have done a few now so I have some tricks that make it faster, but most any one with some mechanical ability, the right tools, jack, jackstands should be able to do it in 4 to 6 hours even if you have never done one

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:16 am 
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dang TJKJ beat me by one minute with about the same info......great minds :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: thinking alike or just dumb luck :wink:

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:17 am 
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tommudd wrote:
dang TJKJ beat me by one minute with about the same info......great minds :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: thinking alike or just dumb luck :wink:
:lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:33 am 
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I have to agree with the two experienced guys. I did mine in the driveway by myself and it took about 4 hours. The rear only takes about 30-45 minutes. The front ones are what takes a long time. The toughest thing I faced was getting the clevis to bolt back up to the LCA. I spent a while going back and searching the Tips here to get the first one done. Then the second side went much smoother.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:04 pm 
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I have to agree with 4 to 6 hours for the first time. Mine took longer but I was doing a write up for the installation, but there should be no reason why it can't be done in 1/2 a day easy.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... highlight=

Read through it there are some helpful tricks to get past the "hard stuff".

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 1:17 pm 
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The reason it could take longer than 1/2 day - is if you break a spring compressor or 2 and have to take struts over to a shop to get them compressed.

(however if you get the right spring compressor - it can handle CRD coils and Ome790's and then it's not an issue)

I'd recommend the one that Advance auto sells - Ampro T70570 - worked for CRD coils and OME 790's -
http://www.amprotools.net/Product_List. ... &mode=show

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 1:27 pm 
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Yea that shouldn't be a real problem since he has a gasser and will be compressing the stock springs.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 10:23 pm 
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whats the thing in the how to do the day star that is huge and orange

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When all else fail...GIVE IT MORE RIGHT FOOT

2007 KJ sport
UNIQUE 297's wrapped in 245/70/16 BFG AT/KO's
Daystar 2.5
Rancho rear shocks
JVC-Mobile- AVX11
Alpine SPS-17C2
Front Door | Rear Door
Infinity Bass link 10"Sub
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2601421
NEXT to come
flip down screen-husky liners


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:18 am 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
If you have the correct spring compressors for the front coils it's not hard at all.I't would take me less then 2 hours,though I've done many KJ lifts,4-6 hours for a beginer.Best to take the front strut assemblies off and that them to a shop and have them disassemble/re-assemble them which is usually about $10-$20 per strut.


Yea man listen to Troy and Tom.
They are pretty much balls dead on with things here.

I got alot of good tips and tricks from these guys.


When I did my lift the first time, it took me 12 hours with the correct tools, but with out the guidence of Troy and Tom.
PLUS TOO MUCH BEER IN BETWEEN PROBLEMS

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 8:49 am 
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maddawg wrote:
whats the thing in the how to do the day star that is huge and orange


The press ??

for the Daystar top plate you have to press the bolts out of the stock top plate and into the Daystar
hydraulic press makes life much easier - if you don't have one - any machine shop can do that

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:34 pm 
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They can be done with out the press in your garage. The orange thing is indeed a press. But really there are some tricks to do the studs with out one. A good size socket and tapping them out with a brass hammer should work just fine.

If you let me know when you are doing your install I will make myself availible by phone to answer any questions you may have. PM me and I will give you my number.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 2:16 pm 
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You can also just leave the studs in your OEM top plates and get some wheel studs from the local parts store.

The ones you need are Dorman Part Number 98524.1

Or just go to your local auto parts store and ask for a wheel stud for a 90's or 2000 model Ford Taurus rear drum brake. That will get it for you too.

They are M12-1.5 thread, which is not the same thread as the stock plates, so don't forget to get 8 M12-1.5 lug nuts too.

Then you can just use a lug nut and a few 1/2" fender washers as spacers to pull the new studs into the top plate. Just use an impact wrench (or I guess you could just use a regular racthet, but you are going to have a tired arm after that) and tighten down the nuts and they will pull the studs into place.

Before tightening the lugs down to pull the studs into the top plate:
Image

After tightening the lugs down. Studs are pressed into top plate:
Image

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2007 Light Khaki 4x2 Sport
- Debadged - LTT CAI with Amsoil Filter - JVC HD Radio - Infinity BassLink
- Iggee Seat Covers - Black Moabs - 265/75-16 Cooper Discoverer ATP - 4.10's
- DIY Franky sitting at 23.75" - Al's 4.5 UCAs - Trimmed F&R Bumpers
- Removed Rear Sway Bar - Removed Rear Vibration Damper
- 75k miles so far...
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 9:41 pm 
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LTT, are these... Dorman Part Number 98524.1 the OEM stud?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 1:17 am 
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Not for the KJ. They are OEM for a Ford Taurus. But they work great for the top plates. Maybe someone else can do some more research and find a stud that is the same thread as the stock top plates. I just found some that worked and stopped there....

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2007 Light Khaki 4x2 Sport
- Debadged - LTT CAI with Amsoil Filter - JVC HD Radio - Infinity BassLink
- Iggee Seat Covers - Black Moabs - 265/75-16 Cooper Discoverer ATP - 4.10's
- DIY Franky sitting at 23.75" - Al's 4.5 UCAs - Trimmed F&R Bumpers
- Removed Rear Sway Bar - Removed Rear Vibration Damper
- 75k miles so far...
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 10:52 am 
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THE Stud: M12nut, 2mm thread pitch, 13.48mm spline width, 5.8mm spline length, 25mm thread length. I chanced the studs, new thread length 45mm, thread pitch 1.5mm, added a 20mm machined spacer plate and achieved a 43mm lift.

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