Brake Pad Comparison

mackruss · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:34 am

The stealer quoted me in dollar equivalent about 105 for the rear and 85 for the front brake pads.

Are these prices competitive / comparable to your US prices for OEM.

What other equivalent pads are you guys using if not the OEM's and what comments do you have about them.

I need to replace front and back soon.

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:07 pm

I think I paid like $50 or $60 for my front pads. I use Bendix.

long_tall_texan · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:18 pm

I can't say for the KJ yet, but I have replaced the pads on every other vehicle I have ever owned. I usually just get the semi-metallic or ceramic pads from the local parts store. I use AutoZone or Oreilly's. They have lifetime replacement for their pads and I have never had any problems from them. Typically they are only $30 per set or so... I just checked AutoZone online and they have one set for $18.99 and another for $33.99. Both are lifetime warranty.

mackruss · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:20 pm

long_tall_texan wrote:

I can't say for the KJ yet, but I have replaced the pads on every other vehicle I have ever owned. I usually just get the semi-metallic or ceramic pads from the local parts store. I use AutoZone or Oreilly's. They have lifetime replacement for their pads and I have never had any problems from them. Typically they are only $30 per set or so... I just checked AutoZone online and they have one set for $18.99 and another for $33.99. Both are lifetime warranty.

Speaking of which, are the OEM pads ceramic?

long_tall_texan · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:24 pm

I assume semi-metallic. That is what most are unless it is for high performance braking situations.

mackruss · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:31 pm

long_tall_texan wrote:

I assume semi-metallic. That is what most are unless it is for high performance braking situations.

Ferodo is the big name brand here in SA and there aren't many other brands available. Are the OEM's Mopar?

long_tall_texan · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:33 pm

mackruss · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:46 pm

Somebody told me that you have to match the pad with the rotor so is it problematic if i fit a non Mopar pad to my OEM rotors?

long_tall_texan · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:09 pm

The "matching" just means to not put new pads on a worn out or grooved rotor. If the rotor has grooves in it, find a local parts store that can turn the rotors for you. They basically put it on a lathe and cut a new clean flat surface on both sides of the rotor. Typically costs less that $10 per rotor. It is a good practice to always turn your rotors when you replace pads, but it is not necessary. Just make sure your rotors are not grooved from excessive wear. You want as flat of a surface on the rotor to contact a flat surface on the pad to give the best stopping power.

As far as matching Mopar Pads to Mopar Rotors - No. You can use any brand of either one as long as they are both flat surfaces.

One more note about turning the rotors. If the rotors have been turned before, or if they are deeply gouged by running a pad all the way down to the metal rivets or backing, they may not be able to turn them. There is a minimum thickness spec for each rotor. If they measure it and have to go below the minimum thickness, you will have to buy a new rotor too ($33 from AutoZone). In that case, it is a good idea to replace both rotors, but if budget is tight, just replace the one under spec. You don't have to do them both...

mackruss · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:16 pm

ATXKJ wrote:

The steel doesn't really care - however a used rotor vs new is an issue -
many rotors are commonly at minimum spec from the factory so any cleanup (trimming on a lathe)
makes it easier to warp from heat - or go below specs.

I've had that problem with my front rotors, caused major vibration.

Embarrased to ask but that's how i learn, what do i look for when checking the pads without taking them out.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:22 pm

Actually without taking the off - just look for grooves in the Disk
(if you can run a fingernail across it's real obvious if there's a problem)

and look for pad thickness if it's within a few mm - I don't like to wait until they squeal - I'd rather change them early.

and here the rotors are about $100 US - so I plan on changing them at the same time
(I'm at 65,000 miles on originals)

long_tall_texan · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:24 pm

Just look at the amount of "pad material" left. The pad is the material that actually contacts the rotor disc. If you have less than 1/8" of pad between the metal backplate and the rotor and you need to replace them pretty soon.

Be sure to check the inner and the outer pad. The outer is easy to see. You may have to stand on your head to see the inner pad.

mackruss · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:25 pm

Disk inspection I'm okay with but can't I check for pad wear with them in the caliper?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:26 pm

you can see the pad with everything assembled -

depending on the wheel style - you might be able to see it with the wheel on.

long_tall_texan · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:27 pm

ATXKJ wrote:

and here the rotors are about $100 US - so I plan on changing them at the same time
(I'm at 65,000 miles on originals)

Is that for OEM Mopar rotors? I have used AutoZone, Oreilly's and Pep Boys rotors for years and never had any problems with them. They actually seemed better than the OEM ones on the Chevys adn Fords. They are only $33 each too.

long_tall_texan · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:30 pm

I think maybe us 2 Texas Rednecks should just take a field-trip over to help mackruss.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:36 pm

I'm afraid the airfare might be a little high on that plan - but I'd love the trip.

(and I was searching NAPA and some of the slotted disks - they were a bit higher so I rounded to $100 - I did not check
AutoZone - although they're just around the corner)

mackruss · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:37 pm

No problem but your K & N filter wouldn't handle the dust and crap this side of the world

I see you have done the Daystar lift which is my next project, what is your opinion and would you do the same again?

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:42 pm

FWIW sometimes its more cost effective to just change the rotors with new...in my locale that is the case.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:43 pm

I started with Daystar (it was the only thing that would work for the diesel)
but I changed to OME when the 790 springs came out

The concern with Daystar is that you compress the springs enough that any bump can cause metal to metal contact - metal to metal will kill the spring rate and cause it to sag.

If you have long enough bumpstops - it won't compress far enough to hit metal to metal.
(I didn't - still need to get some)

Brake Pad Comparison

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