I have a 02 w/Frankinlift and just noticed my Inner cv boot is spinning grease AGAIN. I have been thru 3 boots and 2 replacement axels since lift. Has any body tried the Jeepin By Als CV axel that has 3/8 machined off? Did this help any of your problems? Lookin for info before it desintegrates.
Thanks

It should help decrease you CV angles. Which is probably causing your CVs to fail, so I would get the JBA ones instead of the regular OEM/refurbished sets.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650

..I was under the impression that it just allowed for more clearance so that the cvs dont bind. ..I didnt know they altered the angles.. ?

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A Jeep and a couple Fords.


I would wreck Kate Hudson.

i have them. i needed them for the 4" lift. so far theyre great. i dont notice any difference from OEM's drive quality. but im sure if i was useing the OEM's they would be grinding to all hell. however i didnt ask any ? as it states in the info from JBA that in order to have the 4" you HAVE to replace them with cut ones. and the reel's are nearly double the price then marlins. i actually picked up a second set for the garage. just in case.

so let me be the stupid one here,

your boots are torn/leaking/ whatever but the problem is the boots are slinging grease out ...correct?
So the CVs are not binding or wearing out its the boots right? Of course they go after slinging the grease all out and running dry.
So if thats the case how are new cut CVs going to help? It seems the problem is the boots and not the CVs to me or I missed something

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

I agree with tommy boy....its not the CV. Its the boot...but let me go one step further.....its probably the way you are putting you lift together. As a guess?????? Is it the drivers side?
The drivers side boots are more prone to being torn during reassembly of the suspension when the LCA is pulled down and the spring assembly pushed in to get the lower clevis bolt in place. A little pressure on the boot causes a big problem.

Unless you are running some added extra strut plates and clevis lift there should be no problem with the boots tearing and CVs wearing with a Franky under normal circumstances.

In the mean time....keep the CV full of grease...order another boot, and replace being careful during reassembly.

What part of NJ are you in? There are a couple really knowledgeable guys up there that I'm sure would help out. I'm from Ocean County and will be up that way around Christmas if you need a hand.

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L.O.S.T. #225019
2003 Sport 4x4
Patriot Blue w/ trail rash
Flex-Zilla 4" Lift
TrailRash hi-lift mounts
Other stuff you wish you had

All,
Thanks so far. It is passenger side and I don't think it is an install issue as it has been 50,000 since last boot axel problem and 80,000 since lifted.
Last time there was a problem it ended up being the splines on the inner axel shaft and bearing. You could grab assemble and "shake". there was alot of play.
While shaking we noticed that boot was almost worn thru. Since it was all going to be apart I thought it would be smart to change CV axel while it was. I did lift with mechanic at work, no cleavis or extra strut plates, and do not have the tools or know how to take apart and change just the boot. As such it only cost a relitivly little to do whole new(remanufactured) CV axel. My though is that the shorter axel shaft from JBA might lesen the angle and the boot wearing on itself. I am slammed busy at work and by the time I get to fix this who knows what damage will have been done, I cant even find tear so it must be small for now. Al H tought me a way of getting grease into boot and I am doing that for now. No issues with the way it drives right now but that could change any minute as it a daily driver
I am in Howell NJ and would apreciate any help advise or otherwise.
Thanks again

JBA's cut CV's are the same length as the OEM ones,just the inner CV cups are cut down by 3/8" to allow more travel of the inner CV which helps with binding when crawling over rocks and such.Will not help you in anyway,maybe the so called "better" CV boot material(JE Reel cut CV's only) may help.

i dont have them and ive had the same problems with the boots as well, but I talked to one of the employee's at boulderbars and he shipped me out an EMPI cv boot. ITS BEEN GREAT!!! havnt seen a single problem

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FRANKENLIFT(OME SPRINGS, RANCHO STRUTS+SHOCKS)
AMERICAN RAICNG SIMULOCK WHEELS =15"X8"
BFG AT KO=30"X9.5"
MOPAR BRUSH GUARD

got a number on that EMPI CV boot?

I have also heard that CV Boots from Rockford Constant Velocity Part # 815-21L www.rockfordcv.com will wotk, its called a Duraboot and is for the S-10s ???

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

I have worn both my passenger and drivers CVs out without the boot tearing. I believe it to be the harsh angles when wheeling that have caused my CVs to bind and wear.

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Tom, trailquest sells the EMPI boots. I bought an outer boot kit from them last month. It was only 11.95. There the same guys that have the teraflex bumpstops.
Heres a link:
http://www.trailquest.com/axles/KJ_Model30.shtml

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02 KJ

Last month I had my passenger side CV replaced with Jeepin By Als CV axel that has 3/8 machined off. Since I've only had the Franky on for about a year and a 1/2, and I had done zero off road driving, I can only assume the stock CV was damaged during installation. The new CV is fine after many highway miles, but has not seen off road use... yet.

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05 Liberty Renegade
245/75/16 Grabber AT2
Frankenlift

So, basically what everyone is saying is that having the 3/8 machined CV’s isn't going to be super beneficial unless you are doing some serious off-roading………….Meaning, if a person with a Franky does most of his deriving cruising down the interstate, the factory CV’s should suffice, correct?

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2015 Ram Ecodiesel/Big Horn/4x4/Quad Cab
2016 Arctic Fox 22G/Onboard 2500 LP Cummins Onan Generator/160 Watt Solar Panel

I took the road less traveled. Now I'm LOST.

My 2 cents
From what I have read/ seen/ and observed I think thats pretty much correct. Now if going to the four/six inch then yes needed, its one of those fine lines between a 2.5/3 inch lift and then 4.
NOW if you are off road and stretching it out 95% of the time ( full time trail rig) then it maybe beneficial.

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited