I could use some help. Per the error code (P1263) that my SGII has been showing me and by looking around on the forum, it appears I’ve got a failing glow plug, possibly PG #2. I went ahead and tested the glow plug wire leads and confirmed with an ohmmeter that 3 GP's had low readings of 0.6 to 0.8 with the 4th reading 6.9 (Thanks Ranger1). Concluding that 3 GP's are ok and 1 needs replacement.

Now my question is has anyone replaced a GP themselves? How difficult would it be? Are there any directions or step-by-step guides out there to follow?

I'm not sure what it takes to perform the job correctly and if it’s worth attempting to do
myself. I could go to the steelership, which kinda makes me sick when I think about it, but would rather not.

Any suggestions, pointers or helpful info?

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2005 Silver CRD Sport
GDE Hot and Tranny Tunes, Suncoast, Trango, Provent, Magnaflow, Cummins Lift Pump, SAMCO, SEGR
Al's A-Arms, Frankenlift w/790+3 clevis rings, 4.10s, Eaton E-Locker, Skid Row & Mopar Skids, RRO Super-Sliders
ARB Bull Bar, KC Daylighters, Rebuilt Warn MX6085 w/125' Synthetic line, 265/70/16 Cooper Discoverer STT & Moabs

get it changed ASAP!!!!!!!!!
if it breaks off in cylinder its head removal time.
#2 is like the easiest to change.
i changed #3 required removing intake elbow.
ITs like if you can see it to pull conector off,then unscrew it.
need a torqe wrench for proper install.
mine was cracked entire length of carbon tip on both sides!!!

FWIW I had 3 out of my 4 replaced under warranty in the first six months...

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Ryan
2006 Ford F-250 PSD CC FX4
**GONE**
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
SAMCO Hoses//GDE Tune//PML Trans Pan//TransGo HD Shift Kit//MBRP Exhaust

1986 2R Mustang SVO

manual says remove rear generator bracket.
torque glow plug to 12-5Nm[110 inch lbs]

One more thing to motivate me to finish mine and get it installed. Most glow plugs are a pain to get to, but not hard to get out of the head. The OLD VW ones would self destruct with out trashing the engine (they were soft) , but the fast ones took up to 21 seconds for warm up, I like 3 seconds better.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Yep just happend to check mine one day while runningORM

Glad I DID!

They are only like $30 at rockauto.com.

The one at the front of the engine is easy to replace, I've done it twice. About a foot long extension will help. You don't need to remove the alternator or anything else. The back three I think you need to remove things that are in the way, like intake elbow or fuel filter&head. Maybe someone can speak from experience on the back three and offer some pointers.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

I watched 2 gp's being replaced on mine at 6 months old. Fortunately, #1 and #4 gp's burned out and I saw the tech use an extension on the front gp and a flexible coupler on the rear gp. The center 2 gp's require the removal of the air intake tube for most humans.

I bought a set of spares and notice the design has changed on the ceramic ends from a bullet nose cone shape to a square stick like ceramic end.

The most critical aspect is to follow the instructions on handling of these gp's. Don't touch the ceramic ends as it will cause early burnout failure and don't use them if subjected to shock, as in dropping them even a few inches onto your work tray. The stress to the ceramic tip running at 2000*F just isn't worth a new engine if it causes major breakage in the block and piston area.

All very interesting to me as I watched another tech, fortunately not mine, at a major CRD certified Jeep dealership, take a test lead from the battery to the gp he had removed, then say to his friend, "this one burned out right while I was testing it - musta been bad from the get-go." Yes, that will happen when 12 volts is applied to a 7 volt glow plug. Then later I watched this same tech open 4 new gp's, throw them down on his metal work bench, pick them up one a time and then install them. A couple of them he handled by the ceramic ends. Nothing he did was incorrect by the old 12 volt gp's with the steel tips, but the technology outpaced his knowledge. This was in mid 2005, before the correct handling of ceramic high temperature gp's was well known.

I didn't know about the warnings until I bought mine later, so I think some of these failures are from mishandling by factory workers who were unaware of the touch not, drop not rule.

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2005 LTD CRD RB1 NAV/Htd Leather seats/Amsoil EA filters
SunCoast Mega Trans & Billet TC/PML pan/Aux cooler
Fuel cooler/Lift Pump/10um Pri/Racor R490 2um Sec Fuel Filters
IronMan Lift/Shocks/Provent/Moog ball joints/ V6 Airbox/Fan/Hayden
Cobalt Boost/EGT/Oil/Trans/Volt gauges/Aeroturbine 2525
Yeti Hot Tune/Odessey 65/Samco's/Michelin Defenders