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 Post subject: Re: after hard acceleration
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:11 pm 
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PhoenixCRD wrote:
The only time I get noticeable shuddering/bucking is after accelerating to ~55, backing off to 50 (tranny locked in 4th) then slowly tipping the pedal to maintain 4th lock up. It doesn't always cause shuddering so I figured it was the fuel supply system.

Gary


That's a different monster. That one is an engine calibration issue. I can't condone modifying your emissions system but you could try the ORM if you have access to a really smooth farm lane...

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 Post subject: Re: after hard acceleration
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:50 pm 
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danoid wrote:
PhoenixCRD wrote:
The only time I get noticeable shuddering/bucking is after accelerating to ~55, backing off to 50 (tranny locked in 4th) then slowly tipping the pedal to maintain 4th lock up. It doesn't always cause shuddering so I figured it was the fuel supply system.

Gary


That's a different monster. That one is an engine calibration issue. I can't condone modifying your emissions system but you could try the ORM if you have access to a really smooth farm lane...


It has nothing to do with engine "calibration". By doing the ORM it becomes worse because of the increase in power and fuel consumption.

There are two separate issues reported that occur at similar speeds. One is the "bucking" thing which occurs under OD lockup when slowly decelerating or slowly accelerating after a hard acceleration up to ~50-60MPH. This has been atributed to inadecuate fuel supply either from an air leak or from a clogged filter.

The other one is a very pronounced "shudder" which occurs with moderate to hard acceleration between 1600 to 1700 RPM in OD lockup and is one of three things, either clutch slippage, worn out U-joints or binging engine mounts. My vote is for clutch slippage.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 3:03 pm 
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Lower engine-rpm driveline 'vibration' or more accurately, engine shudder, is acceptable overhead with a Diesel engine - not so noticeable in an 8-cylinder engine, it is more evident in a 6-cyl, and very pronounced in a 4-cyl due to the large angles between power-stroke thrust events: 8cyl = 90* for 4 power thrusts per rev, 6cyl = 120* for 3 per, 4-cyl = 180deg for only 2 thrusts per 360* crankshaft revolution - an automatic trans hides the rotational violence fairly well with the fluid coupling and by keeping the rpms up where the strokes are better averaged per unit of time - would be very noticeable in a clutched manual transmission drivetrain, where the driver may be remiss in shifting to a lower gear to get engine rpms up - me, within self-imposed limits, I enjoy that shudder in my big Dodge\Cummins rig, as indication of the tremendous torque output at low rpm - the VM Motori 2.8L was given twin balance shafts to help hide that (so as to appeal to the girly-man segment), and the TCM won't let the 545RFE stay hooked-up at lower rpms, but it's there, and I enjoy the occasional event when things work together righteously and the mild shudder on acceleration can be felt - 'course, I do have the non-worrisome Suncoast TCC, and maybe the day will come when that 545RFE bad boy can be locked-up in 5th at 30mph for better fuel economy - on that event, it would be a pleasure to downshift to 4th to reduce the shudder somewhat, while still in TCC lockup

Far as determining vibration\shudder source, if vehicle vibrates in 5th but not in 4th, or 5th and 4th but not in 3rd at same mph, then it's engine, with possible probability of oem TCC - if it continues to vibrate in any lower gear, then it's drivetrain, such as u-joints, rubber eng\trans isolator mounts, or rotating component balance, even tires\wheels\rotors, including loose lugnuts - can also be simple as exhaust hanger deterioration, since the KJ has no separate rubber-isolated frame to hang that component assembly from - that wierd-looking chinese finger-torture device in the exhaust pipe adjacent the transmission was designed to reduce engine shudder into the KJ's short-wheelbase exhaust system - remove it during exhaust system 'upgrade', and yer on yer own..............

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Last edited by gmctd on Thu Dec 18, 2008 6:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 3:45 pm 
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One more reason why we need a TCM re-tune even more than an engine tune.

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 Post subject: Re: after hard acceleration
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 8:11 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
danoid wrote:
PhoenixCRD wrote:
The only time I get noticeable shuddering/bucking is after accelerating to ~55, backing off to 50 (tranny locked in 4th) then slowly tipping the pedal to maintain 4th lock up. It doesn't always cause shuddering so I figured it was the fuel supply system.

Gary


That's a different monster. That one is an engine calibration issue. I can't condone modifying your emissions system but you could try the ORM if you have access to a really smooth farm lane...


It has nothing to do with engine "calibration". By doing the ORM it becomes worse because of the increase in power and fuel consumption.

There are two separate issues reported that occur at similar speeds. One is the "bucking" thing which occurs under OD lockup when slowly decelerating or slowly accelerating after a hard acceleration up to ~50-60MPH. This has been atributed to inadecuate fuel supply either from an air leak or from a clogged filter.

The other one is a very pronounced "shudder" which occurs with moderate to hard acceleration between 1600 to 1700 RPM in OD lockup and is one of three things, either clutch slippage, worn out U-joints or binging engine mounts. My vote is for clutch slippage.


The steady state bucking after a hard acceleration has to do with air flow control in the engine. I tested (was the guinea pig for) the prototype code that fixed it. EGR made it worse. It didn't pass emissions so wasn't released. It can be mitigated but not eliminated with ORM.

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 Post subject: Manual test
PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 4:55 pm 
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I tested my manual in 4, 5 and 6th gears and no sign of any shudder at any rpm, may help you guyswith the auto's and the shudder problem.

Good luck.

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 Post subject: Re: Manual test
PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 5:36 pm 
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mackruss wrote:
I tested my manual in 4, 5 and 6th gears and no sign of any shudder at any rpm, may help you guyswith the auto's and the shudder problem.

Good luck.


Pardon my ignorance, but is that a 2.5L or 2.8L?

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 Post subject: Re: Manual test
PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 5:39 pm 
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danoid wrote:
mackruss wrote:
I tested my manual in 4, 5 and 6th gears and no sign of any shudder at any rpm, may help you guyswith the auto's and the shudder problem.

Good luck.


Pardon my ignorance, but is that a 2.5L or 2.8L?


2.8L - 06 -6 speed man.

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 Post subject: Re: Manual test
PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 5:40 pm 
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mackruss wrote:
I tested my manual in 4, 5 and 6th gears and no sign of any shudder at any rpm, may help you guyswith the auto's and the shudder problem.

Good luck.


Yeah, rub it in funny guy. :cry:

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 Post subject: Re: Manual test
PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 6:11 pm 
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mackruss wrote:
I tested my manual in 4, 5 and 6th gears and no sign of any shudder at any rpm, may help you guyswith the auto's and the shudder problem.

Good luck.
Helps increase the anguish... :(

:wink: 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 6:29 pm 
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MrMopar64 wrote:
For those with the shudder, try this and tell me if its still shuddering...

Drive to the speed where the trans is in lockup (4th gear, 5th gear, doesn't matter). VERY LIGHTLY tip into the throttle (maybe no more than 10% pedal). This is most easily done on flat ground. Is it still shuddering? If its not shuddering, try tipping into the pedal more (but not so much that it unlocks/downshifts). Does it now start shuddering? That will tell me a lot. Let em know what you find (hopefully 3 or 4 people can try this simple test).


This is EXACTLY when mine shudders. Doesn't do it in any other gear except 4th and 5th and only one light throttle (not enough to kick down to the next lower gear).

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 Post subject: MR. Mopar your thoughts...........................
PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:00 am 
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Your evaluation is needed.

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 Post subject: re: mrmopar64
PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 11:00 am 
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@Mr.mopar64
In summary my crd shudders any time the tc is locked up and a large amount of torque is put to the trans. This can be while gaining mph, loosing mph on an incline or holding mph on a incline. This occurs between 1750 and 1900 rpm AND AND AND from 19-25 psi. In some situations at particular rpm for instance 55 4'th and locked 1800rpm sharp i'm ok at 19-20 psi but guaranteed to be shuddering at 21

My crd is otherwise in perfect condition, it accelerates quickly and functions normally. Drove from San Diego to Las Vegas, never dropped out of top gear.

My crd shudders under the following:

On flat roads;

OD OFF at greater than 40 and less than ~52 mph from 30% to 70% throttle (if 70 would downshift, or loose lock up) While accelerating (gaining mph)

Od ON at greater than 55 mph and less than 60 mph from 30 to 70 % throttle (if 70 would downshift) While gaining MPH

OD ON at greater than 60 mph and less than 65 from 30 to 70% While gaining MPH

ON grades, nearly everything is the same, except;

I do not have to be Gaining MPH i can be loosing mph. I can be maintaing mph.

The % of throttle can vary greatly depending on the grades.
If i really had to put a number on it i would say when it's putting out 70-100 % of it's max output. You can feel when she's giving all she's got, and it's not always when it's "lugging" I can be easily pulling out of the hole and still have the shudder. Shuddering is ALWAYS cured by gaining higher rpm's, for instance never a hint of shudder above 1900 rpm EVER. I also think the grade hunting logic varies the throttle needed to initiate a downshift etc.

SO to summarize, low rpm high psi = shudder.

I know psi is not a good way to measure output because there are alot of variables, but it's the best I have.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 11:53 am 
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CRDMiller hit the nail on the head.

That's my issue too.

4th gear around 50mph or so and 5th gear around 62mph or so while under load but not enough for a downshift.

Also agree that the engine is not lugging. Plenty of pull there, but the shudder typically causes me to mash the pedal for a downshift which immediately stops the shudder.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 1:05 pm 
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It sure sounds like clutch slippage to me.

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 Post subject: CRDMiller
PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:25 pm 
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Mine is a 2006 completely stock except for ehm and orm since early miles (1000) it now has 62000 miles.
You hit it exactly! Mine is the same. But I am not totally convinced its transmission slippage.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 3:46 pm 
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Well it has proven not to be U-joints because many of those who have replaced them have had continuing problems. It is not fueling because the problem is not fixed with LP installation. It could possibly be low RPM engine pulsation as mentioned by GM but this is also unlikely seeing as how those members with Manuel transmissions cannot replicate the shudder at the aforementioned RPM's and 4 cylinder pulsation does not typically occur above 1200 RPM. It does not occur above 1900 or so RPM when max power and torque is being developed according to dyno runs. That leaves low line pressure in the tranny at the above mentioned speeds. We know that the 545 RE drops line pressure at low RPMs in order to improve fuel mileage and it would also do the same thing with the Suncoast TC because the TCM programming does not change. The transgo kit jumps the shift pressure up but I do not know if it maintains the line pressure once shifted although I suspect that the TCM would adapt to that as well if it did. I still vote for clutch slippage. Perhaps there are other possibilities for the shudder but I can't think of any. Has anyone come up with other possibilities?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 3:51 pm 
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here is something i have noticed with my setup...

i wasn't driving with the transgo resistor turned on, i wired it in a switch so i can control it.
the shifting was the same as before the SC and trans go swap, but we have adaptave TCM's

so on day for S&G i drove a few days with the switch on, of course firmer shifting and all that
other common stuff with the resistor, but i noticed when i turned the switch back off the shifting
still remained firm.

now could it be that the TCM relearned from the resistor to keep the line pressure up?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 6:31 pm 
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I don't have the resistor on mine.

I checked, and the dealer tech neglected to install it (that is if I'm looking in the right place).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:19 pm 
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Spent the day replacing my ujoints.

Shudder is still there. And now i have slight driveline vibes at around 50 mph.

To be fair i did not have the shaft rebalanced, that said some ugly things happened during the procedure so i'm not exactly happy about the current condition of my shaft. I will be seeking a replacement drive shaft because I am a moron :P.

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