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 Post subject: Limited Slips in Both Axles or Lock the Rear???
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:10 am 
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I'm selling my trail only XJ and taking some of those funds to lightly build the CRD. I've allready planned for 2" of lift and 265/70-16 tires using the stock rims. So I'm wondering what would be better? Limited slips in both ends, adding a Detriot Truetrac in the front (as it allready has the factory LSD), or getting a full locker in the rear???

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Tow Rig: 2003 Silver 2wd Dodge 2500 reg. cab 5.9 Cummins (highly modded with 550hp/1200tq+)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:12 am 
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both a DTT in the front and a DL in the rear, but if your only going to get one Id get the DTT for the front first and then maybe later an Aussie locker if you want something cheap for the rear

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1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:15 am 
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best??
depends on the budget

The factory LSD is marginal at best, better than open but???

DTT works great in the front or an ARB

for the rear ARB would be great, next down the line, DL, then DTT and then a Aussie I would say, while you are in there will you be changing the gears to lower ones as well?
265-70s may be a bit wide with stock rims, rubbing on the sway bar for sure when turned
What lift are you looking at?

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


Last edited by tommudd on Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:24 am 
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tommudd wrote:
best??
depends on the budget

The factory LSD is marginal at best, better than open but???

DTT works great in the front or an ARB

for the rear ARB would be great, next down the line DTT and then a Aussie I would say, while you are in there will you be changing the gears to lower ones as well?
265-70s may be a bit wide with stock rims, rubbing on the sway bar for sure when turned
What lift are you looking at?


the DL is better than the DTT in the rear

_________________
1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
http://www.ucora.org/
http://www.christianoffroad.com/
http://jeepinbyal.com/


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:26 am 
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jsc7002 wrote:
tommudd wrote:
best??
depends on the budget

The factory LSD is marginal at best, better than open but???

DTT works great in the front or an ARB

for the rear ARB would be great, next down the line DTT and then a Aussie I would say, while you are in there will you be changing the gears to lower ones as well?
265-70s may be a bit wide with stock rims, rubbing on the sway bar for sure when turned
What lift are you looking at?


the DL is better than the DTT in the rear


Agreed its well behaved on the road despite what many reviews say

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:27 am 
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jsc7002 wrote:
tommudd wrote:
best??
depends on the budget

The factory LSD is marginal at best, better than open but???

DTT works great in the front or an ARB

for the rear ARB would be great, next down the line DTT and then a Aussie I would say, while you are in there will you be changing the gears to lower ones as well?
265-70s may be a bit wide with stock rims, rubbing on the sway bar for sure when turned
What lift are you looking at?


the DL is better than the DTT in the rear


:wink: :wink: :wink: I know that finger slipped :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

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03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:27 am 
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Hood297 wrote:
jsc7002 wrote:
tommudd wrote:
best??
depends on the budget

The factory LSD is marginal at best, better than open but???

DTT works great in the front or an ARB

for the rear ARB would be great, next down the line DTT and then a Aussie I would say, while you are in there will you be changing the gears to lower ones as well?
265-70s may be a bit wide with stock rims, rubbing on the sway bar for sure when turned
What lift are you looking at?


the DL is better than the DTT in the rear


Agreed its well behaved on the road despite what many reviews say


I think that the bad reviews about it have to be b/c it wasn't installed properly or something b/c I can barely tell mine is back there, except every now and then Ill hear a click or small pop

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1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
http://www.ucora.org/
http://www.christianoffroad.com/
http://jeepinbyal.com/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:29 am 
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they are better now as well than twenty years ago, of course you were still playing with toy trucks then :lol: :lol: :lol:

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:33 am 
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tommudd wrote:
they are better now as well than twenty years ago, of course you were still playing with toy trucks then :lol: :lol: :lol:


not quite I was just coming into the world 20 years ago lol :lol: :lol:

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1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
http://www.ucora.org/
http://www.christianoffroad.com/
http://jeepinbyal.com/


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:46 am 
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jsc7002 wrote:
tommudd wrote:
they are better now as well than twenty years ago, of course you were still playing with toy trucks then :lol: :lol: :lol:


not quite I was just coming into the world 20 years ago lol :lol: :lol:


so I have jeans and t shirts older than you :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:50 am 
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Aussie Locker wont work (Ive seen it mentioned twice, I think) without swapping to an open carrier because it wont fit in a limited-slip carrier. At that point you might as well drop the extra money for a DL or DTT since the gears will have to be re-set either way.

..And I agree with adding a DTT to the front first.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 12:52 am 
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tommudd wrote:
for the rear ARB would be great, next down the line DTT and then a Aussie I would say


Just curious, But what is the ball-park estimate price for each of these options and the DL. And what is involved in changing to these from an open diff?

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- Iggee Seat Covers - Black Moabs - 265/75-16 Cooper Discoverer ATP - 4.10's
- DIY Franky sitting at 23.75" - Al's 4.5 UCAs - Trimmed F&R Bumpers
- Removed Rear Sway Bar - Removed Rear Vibration Damper
- 75k miles so far...
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:00 am 
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HoppedUpOnGoofballs wrote:
Aussie Locker wont work (Ive seen it mentioned twice, I think) without swapping to an open carrier because it wont fit in a limited-slip carrier. At that point you might as well drop the extra money for a DL or DTT since the gears will have to be re-set either way.

..And I agree with adding a DTT to the front first.


oh opps I wasnt paying attention, yeah your right you cant use the Aussie with the OEM posi, so you have to get a full carrier replacement like the DTT, DL or ARB


long_tall_texan wrote:
tommudd wrote:
for the rear ARB would be great, next down the line DTT and then a Aussie I would say


Just curious, But what is the ball-park estimate price for each of these options and the DL. And what is involved in changing to these from an open diff?


ARB for the 8.25 $865 plus professional install and air compressor, the DTT for the 8.25 is $575, the Detroit Locker is $545 and the Aussie locker is $300 and is a DIY locker that takes an hour in your driveway as is the Powertrax which is about $400 and is the same as the Aussie, all of the other require a professional install, which varies on the business I paid $175 for my DL install and I think something like $220 for the DTT installed

to change to an open diff you would have to buy an 8.25 open diff but thats only if you want the Aussie or Powertrax locker-Not worth it IOM

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1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
http://www.ucora.org/
http://www.christianoffroad.com/
http://jeepinbyal.com/


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:14 am 
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jsc7002 wrote:
to change to an open diff you would have to buy an 8.25 open diff but thats only if you want the Aussie or Powertrax locker-Not worth it IOM


Not wanting an open diff. That is what I have stock already. Just wondering what the upgrade options were for my 2WD.

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2007 Light Khaki 4x2 Sport
- Debadged - LTT CAI with Amsoil Filter - JVC HD Radio - Infinity BassLink
- Iggee Seat Covers - Black Moabs - 265/75-16 Cooper Discoverer ATP - 4.10's
- DIY Franky sitting at 23.75" - Al's 4.5 UCAs - Trimmed F&R Bumpers
- Removed Rear Sway Bar - Removed Rear Vibration Damper
- 75k miles so far...
Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:20 am 
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long_tall_texan wrote:
jsc7002 wrote:
to change to an open diff you would have to buy an 8.25 open diff but thats only if you want the Aussie or Powertrax locker-Not worth it IOM


Not wanting an open diff. That is what I have stock already. Just wondering what the upgrade options were for my 2WD.


oh ok well then it would still be the same ARB or DL if you want it locked but will require professional install or the DTT which acts more like a locker than a LSD but also requires a professional install and then there is the Aussie or Powertrax which is an easy install but are not full carrier replacements and are therefore a little bit weaker some people like them and there are some people that you could not pay them to run them.

There is one person on here who had one and it broke while he was wheeling. But for the average person I would highly recommend the DTT or DL they aren't quite as expensive as the ARB but are way better than a lunch box

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1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
http://www.ucora.org/
http://www.christianoffroad.com/
http://jeepinbyal.com/


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:28 am 
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Thanks for the info. That answers my questions. Not that I can do anything about it for a while, but at least I am more educated. :wink:

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2007 Light Khaki 4x2 Sport
- Debadged - LTT CAI with Amsoil Filter - JVC HD Radio - Infinity BassLink
- Iggee Seat Covers - Black Moabs - 265/75-16 Cooper Discoverer ATP - 4.10's
- DIY Franky sitting at 23.75" - Al's 4.5 UCAs - Trimmed F&R Bumpers
- Removed Rear Sway Bar - Removed Rear Vibration Damper
- 75k miles so far...
Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:34 am 
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long_tall_texan wrote:
Thanks for the info. That answers my questions. Not that I can do anything about it for a while, but at least I am more educated. :wink:


no problem, I was looking at lockers for a long time before I finally got them, but they are well worth it!

if you consider the Aussie Locker check with 2006 KJ b/c he has it and last I heard he was liking it a lot and there area couple other members who have it....or whatever locker your considering b/c more than likely someone on here has it

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1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
http://www.ucora.org/
http://www.christianoffroad.com/
http://jeepinbyal.com/


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:36 am 
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delete this, double post. forum server running slow.

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2005 Black CRD KJ____Full GDE turbo kit, EHM, 6.5L GMCTD lift pump, euro tq conv, 31" Duratracs on 15x7 Procomps w/3.75"bs
2.5" lift, full skids, Super Skink Sliders, front JBA Steel Diff w/True-Trac___Powertax "No-Slip" locker rear
Tow Rig: 2003 Silver 2wd Dodge 2500 reg. cab 5.9 Cummins (highly modded with 550hp/1200tq+)


Last edited by 2mopar_diesels on Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:36 am 
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No, won't be doing a gear change. The low-end torque of the CRD will pull the 265/70-16 tires fine. I'm just using them cause they are laying around the house left over from my 5.9 Limited ZJ that was wrecked a few months ago. Thought about selling them and using what I get to help purchase new 235/75-16's. Anyways, looks like I will just add a DTT to the front and be done with it. Then, when the factory rear LSD clutches wear out, I'll pop for an ARB. By the way, just to make sure, the front end of these KJ's are the same D30 diffs and gears as all the others right???

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2005 Black CRD KJ____Full GDE turbo kit, EHM, 6.5L GMCTD lift pump, euro tq conv, 31" Duratracs on 15x7 Procomps w/3.75"bs
2.5" lift, full skids, Super Skink Sliders, front JBA Steel Diff w/True-Trac___Powertax "No-Slip" locker rear
Tow Rig: 2003 Silver 2wd Dodge 2500 reg. cab 5.9 Cummins (highly modded with 550hp/1200tq+)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:47 am 
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2mopar_diesels wrote:
No, won't be doing a gear change. The low-end torque of the CRD will pull the 265/70-16 tires fine. I'm just using them cause they are laying around the house left over from my 5.9 Limited ZJ that was wrecked a few months ago. Thought about selling them and using what I get to help purchase new 235/75-16's. Anyways, looks like I will just add a DTT to the front and be done with it. Then, when the factory rear LSD clutches wear out, I'll pop for an ARB. By the way, just to make sure, the front end of these KJ's are the same D30 diffs and gears as all the others right???


no the KK front diff does but not the KJ

the p/n for the DTT is 912A314-DETROIT TRUETRAC DANA 30 - 27 SPL 3.73 & UP

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1980 Jeep CJ7 Buggy
SOA, D44/ FF14B, SBC 350, SM465, NP205, 108" WB, 37" MTs

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/
http://www.ucora.org/
http://www.christianoffroad.com/
http://jeepinbyal.com/


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