fixed my bucking issue with tranny oil change

Ripple · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:02 am

since the first day I owend my jeep if I accerated medium to hard once I leveled off at speed it would buck or surge for a minute or two. I put up with this for 73,000 miles. I would either feather the throttle once at speed to dampen the effects or just not accerate fast. I have all of the recalls except F37. I also frequently bleed the stock filter head to remove bubbles.

so I change the tranny oil as part of the 60,000 mile serivce at 73,000 miles and installed a new spin-on tranny filter and sump filter, also the magnet had very little fuzz on it. I noticed imediately that the bucking had stopped. I cannot get it to buck at all now. I know the others have had diffrent fixes but this is what worked for my jeep. I used vavoline ATF4 oil and the filter came from advantage auto store, some off brand.

also I paid it off in january! woot! its a nice feeling to OWN a car that has some life left in it. In fact now with all these issues being worked out, it functions better and looks as good as it did 3 years ago new off the lot!

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:47 am

When I did the research on picking the ATF-4 fluid, all the evidence indicated that Valvoline made Mopar's ATF-4.
There may be more suppliers now, I haven't checked lately.

Bucking may have been caused by a choked up filter caused by a miss mixed batch of ATF-4.
I have seen additives turn into Petro Snot and cause problems.

vtdog · **Joined:** Fri Sep 30, 2005 11:27 am **Posts:** 640

I had an occasional minor bucking problem too. When the tranny oil was changed at 60k the problem went away.

irunmiles · **Posted:** Sat Feb 07, 2009 11:03 pm

Is changing the tranny oil and filter (are there 2 filters?) a DIY service, and is there a procedure posted? Can it be done with the front on ramps, or do you need a lift?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:47 am

1) Secure the KJ so you can slide underneath on your back, flattened out card board feels better than pavement.
2) Loosen up the bolts between the trans case and pan with a catch pan underneath.
3) Leave two of the bolts in toward the front and finish removing the rest.
4) Gently pry the pan away from the case at the back and let the fluid run into the pan.
5) Wipe up any spilled fluid and your hands, then go take a break.
6) When the fluid quits running out, push the pan against the case and remove the two bolts and dump the fluid into the pan.
7) Be careful and lower the pan and let the transmission drip some more oil, then take another break.
8 ) Swap out the two filters and clean up the bottom of the case and the pan, when you pull the filters more fluid will drain.
9) If you want to use the cork/rubber gasket follow their directions.
10) If you want to use silicone only, clean both surfaces with brake cleaner, apply the silicone to the pan, lift it into place and install the bolts and leave them three to four turns from being tight, then take another break like a lunch break or shower.
11) When the silicone just starts to skin and is still tacky, snug up the bolts in a cross pattern.
12) Tighten up the bolts to the recommended torque. Download the FSM if you don't have it. Sir Sam can tell you if you can't find it.
13) Pour in the ATF-4 fluid down the trans dip stick tube and be patient.
14) When you have most or all of the fluid in, start the engine, run the shifter through the gears and check the dip stick with the engine running add more fluid if needed.
15) Take a drive and recheck the fluid level with the engine running.
16) If you trash your pan, send me a PM and I will sell you mine, I installed a PML extra deep pan.

Ripple · **Posted:** Sun Feb 08, 2009 12:16 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

Bucking may have been caused by a choked up filter caused by a miss mixed batch of ATF-4.
I have seen additives turn into Petro Snot and cause problems.

that must be what was causing my problem, because the fluid was in fine shape, the filter must have been plugged. I think that teh semi-plugged filter restricted flow in low RPM high load situations like 1800RPM cruise with the converter locked and it slipped, which was the bucking symptom.

I would say this (or any auto tranny filter/oil service) is an advanced procedure for a DIY'er. because if it is done incorrectly it could cost many thousand dollars to fix, so the margin for error i would say is slim. on the other hand, one could also say that since its so important to get right, one SHOULD do it oneself. As opposed to some snot-nosed high-school kid working through a southern comfort and pepsi hangover from the night before, not to put too fine a point on it.

vtdog · **Joined:** Fri Sep 30, 2005 11:27 am **Posts:** 640

My tranny change cost about $ 130 at a local tranny shop. When I made the appt for the work they didn't have the correct ATF in stock and ordered it for the job. For me, and my shade tree mechanic degree, $ 130 is a very small price to pay for a job that would not only be a royal pain in the rear (without a lift), but could really cost big $$ if not done right.

"You have to know your limitations"

Dirty Harry

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Feb 08, 2009 4:26 pm

Yes it will fix the T/C problem for a little while but it will come back with avenging.

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:03 pm

irunmiles wrote:

Is changing the tranny oil and filter (are there 2 filters?) a DIY service, and is there a procedure posted? Can it be done with the front on ramps, or do you need a lift?

I think it is. That hardest part IMO is getting the trans pan off. One oil-filter like filter to spin off and one bolt to pull the old trans filter off. the only 'hard' part is making sure you get the seal out of the valve/tranmission with the one filter.

Ramps will give you plenty of room under the jeep.

If you could really get it done for 130, I'd take it and get it done because by the time you by the filters and the fluids you are probably at 80-90 bucks depending on the brand of fluid maybe more.

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:43 pm

Wow, timely post. The CRD just turned 60k miles a few weeks ago. Now just waiting for a dry wkend to change the tranny fluid (ned to do the front diff too :oops:

).

Are both filters available at a standard auto parts store or do I need to get them from Jeep? Are they both listed in the cross-reference books at said auto parts store?

Thanks for the step-by step.

Where can I download the FSM? I only have my owner's manual.

bigugly · **Posted:** Sat Feb 14, 2009 10:00 pm

i believe Shell makes the ATF+4 initial fill for the tranny plants.

i will find out for sure and post when I find out.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Feb 14, 2009 10:49 pm

In a Menards store on clearance for $3.98 QT.
I changed my Trans when I swapped my pan for the PML last year.
Looks like other companies are now selling ATF+4.

fixed my bucking issue with tranny oil change

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