*Emergency* Split D30 Diff Case Need Help Now!!!!!!!!!!!!

LibertyFever · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 4:35 pm

calamaridog wrote:

2mopar_diesels wrote:

...after I hooked up the to strap and started easing back in reverse, he was just about out of the ditch while the KJ was straining when all h*ll broke loose........literally.

And this is why I have never pulled anyone out in reverse with any rig. I've seen this once and it won't happen to me.

Too bad you broke your ride :cry:

but look on the bright side, now you have an opportunity to do a SFA

I've read this discussion before somewhere.
Its best to pull/tug from your rear tow point in 4WD Lo. Its something to do with the strain on the front axle (which in the Libby is only a Dana30A Al axle) and with the ratio of the gears, 4WD reverse compared to 4WD Lo 1st gear.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:03 pm

Gears are "cut" to have the most strength going forward, so when you pull the opposite direction there is going to be a lot of strain on the gears be it a KJ front or a 44 in a Rubicon. Something has to give and it did

aliastel · **Posted:** Wed Feb 18, 2009 9:49 pm

As others have said too, if there had been a bit less traction it might not have broken. Also, that DTT is not a locker and so still places differential stress from side to side when pulling hard. That's what causes the loading and unloading that breaks the diff. A locker removes all differential shifting of power from side to side and this has to help with loading up the diff. I still think that a full locker is the best defense against breakage here. The collar can't stop this, only perhaps delay it or hold it together when broken. Still cheap insurance though. I can't remember reading a post where someone with a full locker, like the ARB, has grenaded the diff. Also, the bottom line, locker or open, IFS or SFA, is that driver finesse is the key to making your drivetrain survive in rough conditions. Just watch the deserthorizons video of his Liberty on the Rim Trail in Moab to see how Robert eases his truck up over the ledges on the Z-turn, concentrating on tire placement and control of wheel spin. No lockers here, just the stock diff with 32" tires.

No doubt most of you have seen this but here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftV-uR-f ... =1&index=3

-David

ObiHann · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:46 am

aliastel wrote:

As others have said too, if there had been a bit less traction it might not have broken. Also, that DTT is not a locker and so still places differential stress from side to side when pulling hard. That's what causes the loading and unloading that breaks the diff. A locker removes all differential shifting of power from side to side and this has to help with loading up the diff. I still think that a full locker is the best defense against breakage here. The collar can't stop this, only perhaps delay it or hold it together when broken. Still cheap insurance though. I can't remember reading a post where someone with a full locker, like the ARB, has grenaded the diff. Also, the bottom line, locker or open, IFS or SFA, is that driver finesse is the key to making your drivetrain survive in rough conditions. Just watch the deserthorizons video of his Liberty on the Rim Trail in Moab to see how Robert eases his truck up over the ledges on the Z-turn, concentrating on tire placement and control of wheel spin. No lockers here, just the stock diff with 32" tires.

No doubt most of you have seen this but here's the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftV-uR-f ... =1&index=3

-David

I can't recall a name but yes, it is possible to grenade a front diff with a ARB. Maybe some more senior members can give me a better example?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:55 am

As of yet no one has blown a D30A with a ARB in it.

ObiHann · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:16 am

LibertyFever wrote:

calamaridog wrote:

2mopar_diesels wrote:

...after I hooked up the to strap and started easing back in reverse, he was just about out of the ditch while the KJ was straining when all h*ll broke loose........literally.

And this is why I have never pulled anyone out in reverse with any rig. I've seen this once and it won't happen to me.

Too bad you broke your ride :cry:

but look on the bright side, now you have an opportunity to do a SFA

I've read this discussion before somewhere.
Its best to pull/tug from your rear tow point in 4WD Lo. Its something to do with the strain on the front axle (which in the Libby is only a Dana30A Al axle) and with the ratio of the gears, 4WD reverse compared to 4WD Lo 1st gear.

So if you were tugging from the front, than 4 wheel high, from the back, low?

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:19 am

ObiHann wrote:

LibertyFever wrote:

calamaridog wrote:

2mopar_diesels wrote:

...after I hooked up the to strap and started easing back in reverse, he was just about out of the ditch while the KJ was straining when all h*ll broke loose........literally.

And this is why I have never pulled anyone out in reverse with any rig. I've seen this once and it won't happen to me.

Too bad you broke your ride :cry:

but look on the bright side, now you have an opportunity to do a SFA

I've read this discussion before somewhere.
Its best to pull/tug from your rear tow point in 4WD Lo. Its something to do with the strain on the front axle (which in the Libby is only a Dana30A Al axle) and with the ratio of the gears, 4WD reverse compared to 4WD Lo 1st gear.

So if you were tugging from the front, than 4 wheel high, from the back, low?

think you missed the point trying to be made

Emergency Split D30 Diff Case Need Help Now!!!!!!!!!!!!

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