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 Post subject: brakes
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:08 pm
Posts: 96
Location: NE Indiana
guys,

I know this has been posted before but I can't seem to find it.

I have to replace the front break pads this weekend because they are getting pretty worn and it appears my left front is sticking because the outside pad is worn a lot more than the inside.

I think the issue is the little metal clips that the pads slide against. Someone posted where you can get new ones. Can someone help me out?

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2006 Liberty CRD
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 Post subject: Re: brakes
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2006 9:38 pm
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Location: Colorado Springs
bigugly wrote:
guys,

I know this has been posted before but I can't seem to find it.

I have to replace the front break pads this weekend because they are getting pretty worn and it appears my left front is sticking because the outside pad is worn a lot more than the inside.

I think the issue is the little metal clips that the pads slide against. Someone posted where you can get new ones. Can someone help me out?
Any parts store will have them or can get them,just ask for the brake hardware kit.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:16 pm 
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Location: NE Indiana
Thanks tjkj2002.

I hope this fixes the issue.

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2006 Liberty CRD
Power Box CR
Racor Fuel Filter Housing
Provent
Assembling SEGR
Suncoast T/C
No muffler


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 12:20 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2008 8:04 pm
Posts: 1627
Location: Massachusetts
I just recently did our front brakes @ 45K (machined OE rotors and used NAPA minimally metallic pads). I would strongly suggest cleaning the sliders, replacing the boots and making sure everything slides smoothly with caliper lube before reassembly. (Unequal pad wear usually means sticking sliders.)

DOC

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 4:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:07 am
Posts: 746
Location: Nashville, TN
My rear brakes were burnt at around 12,000 miles. This was strange to me, and when I took the wheels off, I saw one side was stuck against the rotor and had scored it badly.

I replaced the rotors and pads, but I took time to clean the caliper. The slide pins were rusted and the boots had no grease in them.

I removed the pins and scrubbed them with steel wool to remove the rust. Then I packed the boots with high temp grease and reinstalled them.

Now my front brakes are starting to pulsate at 36,000 miles....so I guess it's time to give them good pads and a good clean and lube of the sliders.

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Chad Hargis
Nashville, TN
2008 Grand Cherokee CRD
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 Post subject: ESC kills the rear brake pads on US '06 KJs
PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 9:06 pm 
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Location: Aurora, IL
I replaced my rear pads at 25K and the fronts are still good at almost 40K.
On the 06 the ESC applies the brakes when you spin a rear wheel.
To lengthen my rear brake pad life, I put it into Full Time Four Wheel Drive for any icy or snowy conditions.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 1:54 pm 
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Location: Massachusetts
On our '05, WITHOUT ESC, we probably could have gotten 40K (mostly highway) out of the rear pads, but for a sticking caliper. I brought it to the dealer just before the 3/36 expired to see if they would do anything about the uneven pad wear and was flabbergasted when they installed (on both sides) new calipers (different design) pads, rotors and gave me a loaner car for the day, all for no charge!

Unfortunately, they went out of business shortly thereafter.

I did the front brakes at 45K because the pads looked pretty low and I did not want to be forced to replace the rotors, if I could avoid it. After taking it all apart, I could see that I was viewing the pads on the "short side" of the taper. We might have been able to get up to another 10K out of the fronts, in view of that.

Unless you are constantly spinning the rear wheels, I doubt the ESC drastically shortens rear pad life. All these rigs just seem to buck the normal pattern and routinely use up the rears long before the fronts.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP


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