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 Post subject: Taking the Tranny out
PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:37 pm 
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I am confused the book said that there is a dust cover but not on my tranny.

How do you take the bolts off from the TC is the TC come off with the tranny and then you take the bolts off

Please Help.


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 Post subject: Re: Taking the Tranny out
PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:45 pm 
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nescosmo wrote:
I am confused the book said that there is a dust cover but not on my tranny.

How do you take the bolts off from the TC is the TC come off with the tranny and then you take the bolts off

Please Help.
You have a dust cover,it's aluminum and does not look like a regular dust cover,it's molded to look like the bellhousing is one piece.It is held on by 4 bolts.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 12:49 am 
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Not even........disconnect the battery, remove the starter, pull the rubber plug adjacent the starter hole, rotate the crankshaft from the front, remove each of four tc bolts as it moves to the window - remove all the bolts around the bottom of the belhousing, then do the uppers by lowering the entire assembly with a transmission jack under the rear crossmember and transmission -

CAUTION: the engine oil pan is cast aluminum\magnesium so is very brittle, and will crack easily

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:37 am 
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gmctd wrote:
Not even........disconnect the battery, remove the starter, pull the rubber plug adjacent the starter hole, rotate the crankshaft from the front, remove each of four tc bolts as it moves to the window - remove all the bolts around the bottom of the belhousing, then do the uppers by lowering the entire assembly with a transmission jack under the rear crossmember and transmission -

CAUTION: the engine oil pan is cast aluminum\magnesium so is very brittle, and will crack easily


I put a half inch thick wood under the motor oil pan, it not tite but it will rest on there. Now when you turn the engine from the front, the tranny have to be in neutral ? and when you take the cables from the shifter does the tranny have to be in neutral or park.
I will take the rubber plug tomorrow, drain the oil and take the filters out, put the pan back and then try to drop the tranny if is possible.
The hardest part of this, that I have done so far was the bolt from the bar where the u joint is, that was a bear.
I took off the water tank and the heat shileld and there is one bolt that the dealer did not install and there is an electrical plug that goes arround there, it is pull so hard againt a bar that the wires are allmost gone, I have to repair that.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:33 am 
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Leave the trans in PARK - you're working with a hydraulic coupling, the case and impeller of which is attached to the flexplate on the engine.

Yeah, too bad about that chafed wire - mine was the same after Mr MoService installed F37 with the new TC and pump - shows you how little transmission to body clearance there is in that transmission tunnel - also who you should not allow to touch your vehicle

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject: Workiing hard with this tranny
PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:03 pm 
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Thank you GMCTD for the good advice with the bolts on the TC. Well today I wiork very hard with the tranny, on the driver side the top bolt was install with an air gun, it took me 3 hours to take that bolt off thanks to the dealer; well I was ready to pull the tranny off but did not give I look all over to see if I had some more bolts but could not see any.
The only place that could be another bolt is on the pasenger side. I took a bolt right by the dip tube and above that there is wiring and a heat shield, is there any more bolt by the heat shiield.
It was so hard to take the cooler tube off I had to take two small plugs off under of one of the tube to be able to take it off. The dealer put glue on the stupid thing, all it need is pipe thread compound. well I hope with you guys help I'w be puting the TC and Pump tomorrow.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 2:14 am 
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There's a couple passenger-side bolts on the engine oil-pan side of the aluminum adaptor plate, up above the oil filter

I had considerable trouble with that top bolt also - took 1@24" and 2@12" 1/2"dr impact extensions, an impact wiggle, and a 36" 1/2"dr breaker bar to convince that rascal it could take the rest of the day off, don't come back till tomorrow

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 2:48 am 
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gmctd wrote:
There's a couple passenger-side bolts on the engine oil-pan side of the aluminum adaptor plate, up above the oil filter

I had considerable trouble with that top bolt also - took 1@24" and 2@12" 1/2"dr impact extensions, an impact wiggle, and a 36" 1/2"dr breaker bar to convince that rascal it could take the rest of the day off, don't come back till tomorrow


I think that everything on the driver side is out I do not know what you mean on the aluminum adaptor plate up above the oil filter. Do you have a picture of the area. I look all arround there and for the love of god did not see any more bolts, maybe below that shield.
If all the bolts are out does the tranny come loose easy. I have done work on tranny before but this one is very hard , no space and not visibility at all.
Please let me know if possible by tomoroow. ANY BODY WITH KNOWLAGE :( :( :( :( :(


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 11:18 am 
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Most Diesel engines are made by companies that do not make vehicles or transmissions, so they make adaptor plates, bolting to the engine block, that bolt to transmissions made by other companies - your itsy-bitsy li'l baby Diesel engine is no different, and is equipped with an aluminum adaptor plate that is bolted to the engine block and fits the DCJ 545RFE transmission - other plates for other companies' transmissions are used in Europe - so, all the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine screw into that aluminum adaptor plate from the transmission side of the torque-convertor bell-housing - however, there are two more semi-hidden bolts that screw into the bell-housing from the engine side of that adaptor plate - both bolts are on the passenger-side (or turbo-side, for yer RHD members) in the area near and above the oil filter location on the oilpan - IIRC, they both require a different-size socket than the ones from the transmission side (I've slept some since doing mine!)

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 12:47 pm 
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gmctd wrote:
Most Diesel engines are made by companies that do not make vehicles or transmissions, so they make adaptor plates, bolting to the engine block, that bolt to transmissions made by other companies - your itsy-bitsy li'l baby Diesel engine is no different, and is equipped with an aluminum adaptor plate that is bolted to the engine block and fits the DCJ 545RFE transmission - other plates for other companies' transmissions are used in Europe - so, all the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine screw into that aluminum adaptor plate from the transmission side of the torque-convertor bell-housing - however, there are two more semi-hidden bolts that screw into the bell-housing from the engine side of that adaptor plate - both bolts are on the passenger-side (or turbo-side, for yer RHD members) in the area near and above the oil filter location on the oilpan - IIRC, they both require a different-size socket than the ones from the transmission side (I've slept some since doing mine!)


I took all of that out and there is a heat shield around there plus the wiring coming down, above that. Is there more bolts If I take that heat shield for the side bolt to come out I have to take the exust out from the turbo. I can not see above those wires that goes to the top of the tranmission. Is there any bolts up there, how can I move those wires to see if there are more bolts.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 4:29 pm 
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Remove the band-clamp holding the down-pipe to the turbine - that will free up a bunch of room on that side , where you can see the turbo-side bolts

Image

Note the new-style upgraded pump cover and seal ^ - always replace the cover and seal when R&R'ing the TCC

Image


p.s. - don' never say I never did do nothin' fer ya.............

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 2:21 am 
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Thank you GMCTD found the bolt and it was worst that the other one, I had to buy a air gun hammer it for about 5 minutes (compressor air had only 100 psi) and gave in and the tranny came loose.
Install the pump and the ring was a bear to install, because the O ring wa so thick that I could not install the ring but hammering and dedication it went in.
tommorow will install the TC and put all back in (hope I will find were all the bolts goes).
Now there is no dust cover in the bottom of the tranny that means that I have to put the Tc bolts through the hole were the rubber plug goes. Is it too difficult to do that,--you know that those bolts are very short-- What about if I drop a bolt. I will put about half of a quart of oil in to the TC, is this ok or should i let it be dry.

LET ME KNOW


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 3:08 am 
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In another note the breather come from the back of the tranny all the way to the fromt and there is another by the mid of the tranny. Is there a purpose for haveing the tube all the way to the front. or will be better to take the tube and put it by the other breather from the back wheels.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:40 am 
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I "Teed" the xfer case vent with the transmission vent, brought the hose up to the firewall area to get it above the water line when off-roading, installed a small plastic lawemower fuel filter, like on the vacuum reservoir - plastic emissions "tee's", hose, and filters are available at yer fav auto emporium

The tc bolts are very difficult to install due to the restricted real estate - additionally, extreme caution is required if a helper is turning the crank as you install the bolts: the bolt-heads can crush or even shear a finger-tip as the crank is rotated

Slowly rotate the crank till you can feel the flexplate bolt-hole - reach around the starter ring-gear, rotate the torque convertor by finger till a corresponding bolt-hole is aligned and install the bolt - IIRC, a tc bolt is larger than the clearance space between the adaptor plate and the flexplate, so it cannot fall down inside if you drop one, but, again, be very careful when your fingers are in the bolt-installation hole because of that minimal clearance

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:39 am 
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gmctd wrote:
I "Teed" the xfer case vent with the transmission vent, brought the hose up to the firewall area to get it above the water line when off-roading, installed a small plastic lawemower fuel filter, like on the vacuum reservoir - plastic emissions "tee's", hose, and filters are available at yer fav auto emporium

The tc bolts are very difficult to install due to the restricted real estate - additionally, extreme caution is required if a helper is turning the crank as you install the bolts: the bolt-heads can crush or even shear a finger-tip as the crank is rotated

Slowly rotate the crank till you can feel the flexplate bolt-hole - reach around the starter ring-gear, rotate the torque convertor by finger till a corresponding bolt-hole is aligned and install the bolt - IIRC, a tc bolt is larger than the clearance space between the adaptor plate and the flexplate, so it cannot fall down inside if you drop one, but, again, be very careful when your fingers are in the bolt-installation hole because of that minimal clearance


What I did was that before bolt the tranny I put the flex hole close to the plug hole and so with the TC. Put the tranny in and it took about half a turn and there it was .after that I was home.
To install the tube where the dip stick goes was a bear, because it drop down and I did not look at the possition that it went, also top bolt real bad. I think that tomorrow I will finish, if I do not have any work to do. Let you know


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