front wheel bearing replacement...

barhpr · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2005 7:18 pm

Has anyone replaced thier front wheel bearings themselves?? If so was it a pain in the a**?? and will i need any special tools?? I got 117,000 on mine and they are starting to made some noise..thanks

USAFCOP · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2005 10:39 am

It is a piece of cake, Hardest part is getting the torque wrench in there when assembling it.
You will need a female torx bit socket. (I got a set at sears)

All I did was
Disconnect upper ball joint
Remove hub nut
Disconnect the disk brake adapter bracket (only the bracket not the line)
Remove brake disk
push the axle shaft out as far as possible (this may require a bit of pursuasion with a hammer be
sure the hub nut is on at the end so you do not damage threads)
Then remove the three torx bolts holding it in(just slide the CV shaft around in the hub to get it
out of the way)

The hub bearing is an assembly, real easy, I got it at CSK (Checker, Shucks, Craegen) with a 2 year warranty for 132 each.

Sounds harde than it was. Whole job was 35 minutes from on the wheel to getting the tools jacking it up and wheel back on the ground. Real quick! Longest part was waiting a week for the parts to come in.

barhpr · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2005 10:42 pm

thanks! think ill try and tackle it saturday

barhpr · **Posted:** Fri Jan 06, 2006 10:46 pm

ok i didnt specify which saturday... i found one for 169.00.. and finally gonna do it tomorrow, if i remember ill take pictures....

ManicMechanicJoe · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2006 3:49 am

you don't need a bearing puller???? When I did them on my S10 i did but the front end is totally different on that. The easiest to do are the old style where they just slide right out (also the cheapest, $20 for all four in the front end).

ltwgs · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:25 pm

Nope, its just like COP said, all one unit...

USAFCOP · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2006 2:48 pm

Yep,

This is a real easy set up, almost as easy as doing standard wheel bearings on a trailer... actually I will say it is easier since you do not have to get greasy while repacking your bearing.

Quote:

barhpr

ok i didnt specify which saturday... i found one for 169.00.. and finally gonna do it tomorrow, if i remember ill take pictures....

Did you get pics? We could colaborate, or you could put together a tech article to submit in the suggestions forum including tool sizes, torque specs, and pics and other things necesary.

This would help a lot of other Jeepers that may be intimidated by the sound of this job. The only difference when doing the bearings is ABS need to ensure you have the proper side and unplug the sensor I believe.

barhpr · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2006 6:57 pm

well...

after getting the jeep on the lift and talking about the noise.... my dad made me take the new spare off the gate and put it on.... and well....um...the noise went away, in that corner.
i guess it goes to show that rotating the tires dont always eliminate that factor.The jeep had Winston Winner brand tires (should of been clue #1) and i put the goodyear wrangler on it.
Guess who's pricing new revo's as soon as he hits submit???? I did take a few pics, but nothing that'll be of help.Gawd I feel like a doofuss :roll:

I did end up buying a haynes manual though,I guess something came out of it...

ManicMechanicJoe · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2006 7:53 pm

Tires. I once had it where i thought the vehicle needed to be aligned, so i put the car on the alignment rack at the shop and went to work. Everything was in factory spec, I couldn't believe it. So I drove it hard, then used a infrared thermometer at each wheel to see if a brake was stuck on. Nope everything checked out. The wheelbearings were fine, nothing was bent. Turned out it was the nylon cords inside the tire had separated (couldn't balance the thing at all) and threw the tire out of round. That was a Continental tire. So it wasn't some cheap tire. If you have a weird pull or noise-check tire pressure and rotate your tires, it could save you a trip to the mechanic.

barhpr · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2006 8:38 pm

well FUDGE! drove the darn thing tonight and I swear I here a warble warble warble still in the front right, I still got the bearing, so I told the girlfriend to name the night, and its goin in...I'll be sure to take pictures too..and take notes of tools needed, and a rough estimate on the number of beers needed.. :twisted:

ManicMechanicJoe · **Posted:** Sat Jan 07, 2006 8:41 pm

I would estimate this to be a 4-5 beer job. If you struggle with the balljoint it may turn to a 6 or 7 beer job. If you have air tools- 4 beer job.

ltwgs · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2006 12:14 am

Okay, just finished both bearing-hub units today and the sucker drives like a luxury sedan (with MTRs on it). GREAT RESULTS!

USAFCOP, I'd be happy to include notes if you want to join forces for a write-up on the operation...picked up mine from Jeep for $191 each, so your source may be the better recommendation.

Done at 115k, part of which included heavy wheeling over rocks and cars.

Grant

USAFCOP · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2006 2:56 pm

TWGS, do you have ABS, if so, then yours are the same price. I do not have ABS so mine are cheaper.

IF you have pics, you could either e-mail me the pics, and I can write it and post it, or you could just do it, and when I see it in the suggestion forum, I could reply with some edits. Your choice.

Oh, and I leave for the Bahamas Monday... See I am a good boy, I dsaved some desert money to spend with the wife... not all on the Jeep!!!

ltwgs · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2006 5:35 pm

Not ABS, just the stealership rate for me I guess.

Don't have any pics, and could put my $.02 in here for now. I'm travelling tomorrow as well, so final servicing is today's main event.

1. I left the UBJ in tact and just worked around it.
2. When removing the caliper, folks should try not to let it dangle by the hose (use a bungee cord or a cinder block to support it out of the way).
3. After removing the old hub, use a brillo pad to clean the areas where it contacted other parts (metal seal points, rims of the holes, etc)
4. Not a "have to" thing here, but I rubbed a very small amount of grease onto the splines before installing the new units.
5. When installing the new hub, if it sticks on the last half of insertion, you can use a electric/air wrench on the center hub nut to ease the hub into place.
6. Torque the 3 star bolts to 96 lb/ft, per the service manual.
7. Your hub should come with new lug bolts, so it wouldn't hurt to pick up 8 new lug nuts to give you a fresh start.

That's all I can think of right now. USAFCOP, enjoy your vacation. I will combine our notes and post a note in suggestions forum, but I don't have the pictures to complete the write-up. You can send me any pics you have whenever you get back, and I'll insert them into the write-up then.

ltwgs

EdgarNYU · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2006 11:40 pm

Hey Grant,

Don't forget to email me some of the pics of all of us on the trails and such, DUDE!

Feliz Ano Nuevo!

ltwgs · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2006 12:06 am

No problem, Edgar! I should have my own computer running in the next couple of weeks, finally! Been living on the road for the past few months, trying to rustle up a living...

Y tu, feliz ano nuevo, mi amigo bueno!

front wheel bearing replacement...

Who is online