I am going to replace the cord end with one of these (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_sg?ur ... &x=15&y=20) like I did on my old F250 and want to get the right one. thanks. oh and they work great.

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

Any of those should be fine. The existing cable on the heater is a 16 gauge which isn't rated for carrying more than 10-12 amps.

Has anyone seen a source for an inlet designed to kickout the connector when the vehicle starts? a friend who is a volunteer fireman has one and says most emergency vehicles use them. We dont need the heater much down here, I'd hate to forget to unplug on a rushed morning!

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05 Liberty Sport (SEGR, Elephant hose, Caseless inline thermostat, Weeks Elbow, 7V Etecnos, V-6 airbox w/splashguard, Aussie shroud, Bees Timing belt procedure w/ IDPARTS, EVIC added, Leather Seats installed, Moog LBJs)
02 Jetta TDI wagon GLS (elephant hose mod), 5-Spd swap, Bilsteins, TT bushings
I stand UNDER my work!

You shouldn't need the block heater at all in South Carolins

To the original question, I could be wrong but recall the block heater is 400 watts

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

I figured they would be fine, just wanted to check. Thanks.

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

Thats a cool idea!

And I'm in SC too, almost in Georgia. Remember that I'm in the process of getting a NEW ENGINE because my turbo blew (and pumped out the oil) on a VERY cold morning. With the heater, the turbo might have been properly lubricated. I don't know for certain if that is what caused it, but it was in the low teens overnight that night, and only 32 when I left... And 2 miles later, I had a blown turbo.

Here's a thought: If the heater is only 400 watts, I may get a second battery and connect it to an inverter. Put an isolating diode between the batteries, and the heater battery will charge when the Jeep is running, but not discharge the main battery from the heater.

Something to think about. B/c then, the heater will only run when it is needed, and never needs to be unplugged. 400 watts isn't that much, and I don't believe it would run much anyway to maintain the oil temps. This would be a solution if the automated kick-out isn't available. Can you see if your friend can read a manufacturer's name off the outlet on his firetruck?

I don't think it's thermostatically controlled. Just plugged and on or unplugged and off. I had a Datsun pickup with their diesel (1982) and I put one in it and that's how it worked.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Right, it's not thermostatically controlled. You could buy one of those freeze-stats designed to turn on a heater or other appliance when the temp drops below 35F.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.