I am new to the diesel thing but not to the whole world of cars but I have been reading up on this forum and few questions about codes I have been getting and the ways to fix this.

First off I am sick of dealing with the EGR... its on the 3rd one with 75k on the clock. I am getting a EGR code again along with a MAF code... from reading up on the forum the EGR and the MAF are related? Also from what I gathered, I can simply unplug the MAF and that will disable the EGR as long and i don't mind seeing the SEL light?

Finally I am getting a "turbo low boost" code, once again from reading up on the forum I found out there is some sort of "sluging" problem because of the way the intake is vented? If I am correct in this how can I safely clean out the intake lines/ intercooler without damaging them. Also what is the way this is commonly fixed?

Thanks in advance!

BTW since I am new...
Its not really my car its my mothers and I fix it for her whenever she has problems but I still drive it a lot.
I have a 1988 Comanche with 214k miles and a 1994 Camaro Z28

I got the same codes once. I replaced the EGR and the codes never went away (and it still drove like crap). Then I discovered the CAC hose (Drivers side) was split. I replaced the hose and all codes went away.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

What is the CAC hose?

CAC = charge air cooler, aka intercooler. The OEM hoses are weak and break down in the presence of engine oil. Check out the discussions on "elephant hose" versus Provent -- both reduce the oil in the intake. Lots of people replace the old oily CAC hoses with the Samco silicone hose set. It will resist the oil better.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

It's the big stupid hose with the plastic braid that goes to the intercooler on the driver side. It usually splits on the bottom where you can't see it.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

ok cool where would i purchase a Samco silicone hose set?

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

The "Turbo Underboost" Code could also be because the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP) is fouled from oil and from the EGR allowing soot into the intake. It is easy to remove, clean, and re-install. The thread is in the "CRD TECH ONLY" section. This would particularly be true if it is running well with no loss of power, as would happen if you had a split CAC hose. There are some on this forum that are of the opinion that if the engine is not overfilled with oil, then oil condensing in the boost hoses may not be as bad as it would if you consistently use the dipstick markings to measure oil volume.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=22630

If you are on your 3rd EGR, it is time for either dealing with having the CEL on by unplugging the MAF, or installing an SEGR. PM UFO or LocoCRD to see if they have an assembled kit. It requires splicing into the wiring harness. I have one at home, but haven't quite summoned up the onions to go after my wiring harness.

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In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

ok so thats probably the low boost code... what about the MAF/EGR... can I just unplug the MAF and be done with it?

I'll have to try cleaning the MAP sensor, is there a SEGR that does not require the cutting of wires?

If you simply unplug the MAF sensor, it will disable the EGR. You will get more power, better fuel mileage, and more noticeable diesel "clatter."

The SEGR makes the Engine Computer think that the EGR valve is operating properly while not allowing it to open. Unfortunately, it requires splicing into 6 wires that lead to the computer. I still haven't worked enough courage to install mine myself, so I just endure the Check Engine Light. (It also won't pass an emissions test at inspection time with the CEL lit up)

If you're unwilling to do the SEGR and your mom can't handle the CEL on all the time, the only other option short of having the dealer service the EGR is to periodically get on the freeway and run the heck out of that little mule. It will help to cut down on soot depositing on the EGR valve, since the EGR only functions at part throttle. If the EGR valve is in use and you don't "drive it like you stole it" sometimes, it will cake up with soot.

Trust me, I only know this because of what I have learned on this forum. This is a great source for all things KJ CRD.

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In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)