Clevis lift install: level or "tilted"?

Coyotefred · **Joined:** Thu Dec 29, 2005 4:50 pm **Posts:** 36

'Had a quick question for the group. Based on everyone's helpful advice here I'll be installing Rusty's coil lift soon. For a little more clearance I'll be installing a clevis lift at the same time. My question: for those of you who installed your clevis lifts, did you keep your KJ level by installing the same clevis lift all-around, or did you keep a forward "tilt" to the KJ like she looks stock (by installing maybe a 5/8 in the rear and 3/8 in the front)? Any preferences one way or another?

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

Not sure about the measurements, but a clevis lift can only be done in the front. In the rear you have other options such as TJ shim packs or extra upper rear spring isolator if you want more in the rear. However it seems from reading that most people do a clevis lift in the front to make it sit level.

krazz1e · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:42 pm

yep eddo is correct. mainly done to make it level. Mine rusty coil lift has long settled and it is much lower in the front... a clevis would level this out for me, I gotta do this soon before moab.

Coyotefred · **Joined:** Thu Dec 29, 2005 4:50 pm **Posts:** 36

krazz1e wrote:

yep eddo is correct. mainly done to make it level. Mine rusty coil lift has long settled and it is much lower in the front... a clevis would level this out for me, I gotta do this soon before moab.

OK so apparently I was confused. I was under the impression that after you installed the Rusty's coil kit you would basically have a "leveled" KJ. Apparently not...you end up with a lifted but still "tilted forward" KJ? So at the point you have the option of adding a 3/8" or 5/8" clevis lift to the front only to "level" things. 'Sounds like 3/8" is the most popular...but I'd like to get that front skid plate up as high as possible without looking too strange or causing handling/performance problems...so 5/8" would be nice if it doesn't cause these problems...

OBX KJ · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:41 pm

Would someone be kind enough to post a link to some detailed clevis lift info?

Thanks !!!

fdezone · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:55 pm

Coyotefred wrote:

OK so apparently I was confused. I was under the impression that after you installed the Rusty's coil kit you would basically have a "leveled" KJ. Apparently not...you end up with a lifted but still "tilted forward" KJ? So at the point you have the option of adding a 3/8" or 5/8" clevis lift to the front only to "level" things. 'Sounds like 3/8" is the most popular...but I'd like to get that front skid plate up as high as possible without looking too strange or causing handling/performance problems...so 5/8" would be nice if it doesn't cause these problems...

Here's my school of thought on the level vs. aggressive stance... When tastefully done, I prefer the aggressive stance. I usually like the rear about an inch higher than the front. First, the vehicle won't look like it's squatting when it's loaded down and secondly, it improves your departure angle. It has never caused any "handling/performance problems" for me and I had an XJ set-up in that same fashion for years. Just thought I'd mention that since I read alot of posts that state KJ's are sitting an inch lower in the rear. Just my opinion.

bighause · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 7:20 pm

Check this link for a picture a what the Clevis lift entails. It is very simple, especially since you will have the struts out anyways.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... clevis+pic

Coyotefred · **Joined:** Thu Dec 29, 2005 4:50 pm **Posts:** 36

fdezone wrote:

Here's my school of thought on the level vs. aggressive stance... When tastefully done, I prefer the aggressive stance. I usually like the rear about an inch higher than the front. First, the vehicle won't look like it's squatting when it's loaded down and secondly, it improves your departure angle. It has never caused any "handling/performance problems" for me and I had an XJ set-up in that same fashion for years. Just thought I'd mention that since I read alot of posts that state KJ's are sitting an inch lower in the rear. Just my opinion.

So what does this translate into as far as a clevis lift? It seems as if others are installing a 3/8" clevis in front to more or less level out their KJ following a 2.5" lift like Rusty's or Daystar. So to keep the "aggressive stance" you're talking about, would you just do without the clevis lift entirely? I'm thinking you'd lose some real front clearance this way... ?

bighause · **Posted:** Wed Jan 18, 2006 12:44 pm

The IFS can only droop so much, lifting it doesn't expand this stock range of motion any. With a 2.5" lift you are already moving toward the max droop allowed. You have more compression and clearance, but offroad you will max out the suspension more often. Mine tops out occasionally offroad but I haven't really had any problems, but if I lifted the front another 1/2" or more it might become an issue.

If I were to guess, when jacking up the front to rotate the tires I only have to lift it 3 inches or so to get the tires off of the ground. There is about 6 or 7 inches of compression though. A well balanced suspension should have these numbers as close to even as possible in my opinion (not really possible on a KJ if you want any kind of clearance)

Coyotefred · **Joined:** Thu Dec 29, 2005 4:50 pm **Posts:** 36

Eddo wrote:

Not sure about the measurements, but a clevis lift can only be done in the front. In the rear you have other options such as TJ shim packs or extra upper rear spring isolator if you want more in the rear..

I think I got confused when I read these "clevis lift" instructions from the TECH section

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... +floorjack

They talk about doing the rear as well, but it looks like the only "clevis lift" is done in front; the rear instructions sound like they're talking about sticking in a 'puc' (spacer?) lift...

jpzkj · **Posted:** Wed Jan 18, 2006 9:37 pm

Careful about that clevis lift....I think it's the reason my upper ball joints are toast.....

Those with the clevis lift ...jack your KJ up by the lower A arm and try to move your wheel inward by placing your hands at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock...push 12 o'clock towards the center of the Jeep...did it move ?

If so....upper ball joint replacement is in your near future

Coyotefred · **Joined:** Thu Dec 29, 2005 4:50 pm **Posts:** 36

jpzkj wrote:

Careful about that clevis lift....I think it's the reason my upper ball joints are toast.....

Those with the clevis lift ...jack your KJ up by the lower A arm and try to move your wheel inward by placing your hands at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock...push 12 o'clock towards the center of the Jeep...did it move ?

If so....upper ball joint replacement is in your near future

Have others with the clevis lift had similar problems? I guess I was under the impression that a modest clevis lift was a relatively common and "safe" modification... ? I'd like to get the extra clearance it would provide, but not if it comes at the expense of the ball joints...

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Jan 20, 2006 12:11 am

The clevis lift is ok and safe to do, but you need to watch your upper a arm to see if it hits the spring. Some lifts already have the suspension maxed out. In my case ive got the ome lift and will be doing the clevis lift but dont want to pay for another alignment or i would of already done it.

jpzkj · **Posted:** Fri Jan 20, 2006 2:44 am

It's not the contact issue (although that is one of them) It's the angle that the joint is at when you add the Clevis Lift.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Jan 20, 2006 2:17 pm

jpzkj wrote:

It's not the contact issue (although that is one of them) It's the angle that the joint is at when you add the Clevis Lift.

That too. Even though the clevis doesnt make the ball joint hit when its sitting still, when at full droop is when it can make it hit. With my ome lift, my cv angles are more than fine, but the ball joint may only be 1in from hitting when drooping, if i move the clevis up some then it makes the entire thing droop more, causing it to hit. Thats what you need to worry about, even if the cv angles look ok.

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

Jeepjeepster is right. Too much clevis lift will allow the wheel to droop too much bringing the upper a-arm and ball joint down into the spring. Also too much clevis lift can result in too much lift and cause other problems.

So in short just make sure you watch your CV angles and the ball joint contact. A modest clevis lift on Rusty's lift would be fine.

Coyotefred · **Joined:** Thu Dec 29, 2005 4:50 pm **Posts:** 36

Eddo wrote:

J
So in short just make sure you watch your CV angles and the ball joint contact. A modest clevis lift on Rusty's lift would be fine.

So by "modest" we're talking maybe 3/8" like I've heard plenty of people with 2 or 2.5" lift kits doing?

hillcountrykj · **Posted:** Fri Jan 20, 2006 10:00 pm

Yes a 3/8 clevis would be modest. 3/8 may not seem like a lot but it makes a big difference. Thats what I did to mine and now it sits level.

labman1 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2006 6:26 pm

So if I do a clevis lift do I need an alignment? I still have the stock struts but I think that little bit would help with the slight tire rub I get untill I can afford a whole lift-kit. Thanks-Dave.

1roy · **Joined:** Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:59 pm **Posts:** 38

so many do the clevis lift to get another 1/2 inch up front. wouldnt it be better just to add that 1/4 steel spacer plate on top of the strut. also rocky road has the 3/8 steel spacer plate size. i hear the 1/4 plate gives you 1/2 inch the 3/8 gives you 7/8

Clevis lift install: level or "tilted"?

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